*** Broken stuck Casing - Successfully REMOVED

V29189***

V29189***

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Good day - Having failed to remove a broken stuck casing with a .223/5.56 extractor tool - I'd see if there are any other tips from CGN'ers

AR15 - stuck broken casing at the shoulder
Bore cleaning rod does not catch
Extractor tool catches but is not strong enough to remove it - it simply slides out

Its been soaking in penetrating fluid for about a day


Any other tips besides bringing it to a Gun smith that we do not have in my city?

Thanks

____________________________________________________________
UPDATE:

Removed casing - played with the extractor a bit, added a few small washers so the tip would travel further than the neck - added some cold shots from a can of rusted bolt remover - tried a few times with help from a buddy - removed.

Thanks for the quick responses and tips.

(moderator - if in wrong forum, please move - thanks)
 
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Time for the tap set...
AND BE CAREFULL!
just take your time when taping the broken casing. Just enough to remove it but don't cant it so the tap screws with your chamber.
 
A tight fitting(inside the case) brass/bronze brush jammed into the case only, then pulled back out...Sometimes the orientation of the bristols gives alot of hold, just don't jam it into the rifling beyond the case/chamber!
 
Before you resort to something like a Tap, contact a gunsmith and see how much it will cost. I tried something similar with a stuck bullet once. Eventually spent $25.00 getting the bullet out and then $300 replacing the barrel. :eek:

That is the last time I personally will be going anywhere near a barrel with any tool like a tap set.
 
Dietz said:
Would you tell us what kind of ammo and upper it is?
Click to expand...
+1

There are different approaches you may want to consider depending on what kind of ammo it is..


Also, I would probably take it to a gunsmith... Most do charge very little to take care of it.
 
Upper is A4 style
Ammo is brass

shinning a light into the chamber I can see that it has broken off at the shoulder, so you have a bit of the shoulder and the neck to work with.
 
Bolivar said:
Before you resort to something like a Tap, contact a gunsmith and see how much it will cost. I tried something similar with a stuck bullet once. Eventually spent $25.00 getting the bullet out and then $300 replacing the barrel. :eek:

That is the last time I personally will be going anywhere near a barrel with any tool like a tap set.
Click to expand...




Nothing locally with any skill to sort this out apparently...it would have to go out of town
 
Bolivar said:
Try putting the upper in the freezer. This will cause the case to shrink slightly, hopefully more than the chamber, then then it should be able to be removed.
Click to expand...



I never did think I'd need to use my Gr.6 science class lecture to sort it out...thing is though - that's a pretty good idea...

I can apply a bit of heat to the barrel perhaps first, and then cool the casing and use my puller
 
...wow,, that sucker must really be jammed in there! possibly a split case neck too...

I honestly don't believe that this is something that needs a smithy unless there are extenuating circumstances (like it's been stuck due to a rough chamber or piece of grit, for example). Meaning I have huge faith that you can find a way to figure this out.

My 2 cents would be; the freezing trick, the bore brush trick, 'push a tight fitting patch from the muzzle to the chamber' trick, use a tap... or a close fitting bolt (all you have to do is get the soft brass to get stuck on the steel threads, after all! ... I'd say a 1/4 inch, maybe 3/16" would be a great start), and then, maybe!, find your smithy. There has GOT to be a way; it's too simple a problem.

Keep trying, (be careful with a tap!), and be patient. You'll solve the problem.
 
V29189*** said:
Upper is A4 style
Ammo is brass

shinning a light into the chamber I can see that it has broken off at the shoulder, so you have a bit of the shoulder and the neck to work with.
Click to expand...

That doesn't tell me a whole lot. Is it a 5.56 chamber? Who made the barrel? Etc...
 
V29189*** said:
I never did think I'd need to use my Gr.6 science class lecture to sort it out...thing is though - that's a pretty good idea...

I can apply a bit of heat to the barrel perhaps first, and then cool the casing and use my puller
Click to expand...

18.7 10-6 m/m K for brass

13.0 10-6 m/m K for steel.

Chilling it will help a bit as there is a differential between the two CTEs.

Heating won't do anything as the brass expands faster than the steel.
 
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