brownells muzzle break info

chalkriver

chalkriver

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I am thinking of making my poly into a 18.5 shorty ....i came across a muzzle break on the brownells web site for $89.00 and it came with the castle nut wrench, allen keys and it looks like the original front sight can be reused....
I tried reading past threads and tried the search function for info :confused:does anyone have any info on their quality and performance as a muzzle break...it seems like a quick fix to the front sight issue when making a shorty....and its under 100 bucks....so I guess no shipping issues

http://w ww.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12576/Product/M1A_MUZZLE_BRAKE_STABILIZER

Thanks:cheers:
 
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no thread, it uses the castle nut and the splines on your barrel
if you cut your barrel you won't have the splines for this one to slide in + you'd need a new castle nut since people who cut& thread, never rethread in the chicom's thread pitch
 
Your barrel will have to be threaded after it is shortened, and a brake installed.
There are front sight units that replace the gas cylinger lock.
Maybe somewhere there is a combination brake/sight unit that can be installed on a shortened barrel.
There may be gunsmiths who could shorten the barrel, machine splines and thread for a castle nut. But that is a LOT more involved.
 
"...guess no shipping issues..." Maybe, maybe not. The U.S. requires an exporter's licence, different thing from the export permit, that manufacturers require before their stuff can be exported, regardless of the value. Brownell's will tell you if they can export the part.
 
  1. No Export Licence required for Muzzle Brake's as long as they are under the $100 limit.
  2. That muzzle brake is alright but they have better 1's.
  3. If you get the doc to chop mod your rig then he also offer's a couple of different brake's. But if they are not to your liking get any AR 15 brake and tell him to bore it out to 308 for ya.
 
I copied this from Mithanthropist post in the stickies 4th stickie from the top ... titled (M14 FAQ - Tips,Help, & Info. )
...I dont know how to add the pics but I think this method should work fine ...The break looks like a direct replacement for the flash hider ..... I am only concerned that the metal is thick enough on the muzzle break to bore out inside and add the threads inside the break...

Has anyone tried this before???

I copied the text from the stickie....the procedure is listed below

So you chopped your barrel and got the usual 1/2" by 28tpi end on it...
Now whack that barrel stub out of your stock Norinco flash hider, and take it to a machine shop. Here is what you will ask for:

1. The splines must be bored out so the inside of the hider is smooth.

See right at the back there? No three splines sticking in anymore. Smoooooth.

2. The section immediately past where the barrel stops has to be bored out to 1/2"x28 threads per inch, just like the inside of AR flash hiders. See the Threads?

3. You also need a 1/2" crush washer. In this pic you can see the section that you bore and thread, and that's a crush washer next to the flash hider. The gun smith I go to supplied me with mine.

4. On the bottom of the FH, have them put in a little set screw. This is just to lock the thing in place. I don't know if it's necessary or not, but my setup works. I have around 150 rounds through it. It was hard to get off for these pictures so it's not shaking loose.

I don't want to tell you how little this cost me in case the machinist was doing me a favour! But rest assured that this is not much work. It might cost you about what a flash hider would have cost. It might be less.

You now have an extremely simple, effective front sight and flash hider, and it cost you something like forty bucks! Installation is simple:

1. Screw it on.

2. If it doesn't line up perfectly straight up and down, rub the compression washer on a sharpening stone for a few seconds and try again. It doesn't take much grinding to change the front sight indexing.

That's it! I prefer this to the Navy sight, personally. It's cheaper, and faster, and you already have the parts, and it requires no maintainence

Thanks to Mithanthropist for the info:cheers:
 
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