Browning accuracy

smokingunn

smokingunn

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Well i have recently obtained a browning A bolt in 7mm rem mag, i am thinkin i might wanna turn this into a long range target gun, i got the rifle very cheap as it had some surface rust on the barrell which i managed to clean up, it came with a simmons 6-24x50AO scope, but i already dont like it so it has to go, i also noticed that the stock has had a small attemp at bedding, is this done at the factory by browning? Is this rifle worth spending some money on or would i have more luck with a savage?
 
My brownings are very accurate. My action was bedded from the factory as im sure yours is also. But using the browning action for a long range rig might not yeild the best reaults. Mostly due to a lack of aftermarket support. There are parts out there but they cost more then remi parts or savage. If I was building a long range gun I would use the savage action.
 
If you're thinking of competing, I'd say get another gun and make that one a project. You can't use magnums in F-class competition. If you have the time, money and desire, go for it: For that sort of round, I'd make everything heavy so you won't feel its recoil so much. Get a new barrel and get a heavy stock & bedding job.
 
ICEDSHOT said:
My brownings are very accurate. My action was bedded from the factory as im sure yours is also. But using the browning action for a long range rig might not yeild the best reaults. Mostly due to a lack of aftermarket support. There are parts out there but they cost more then remi parts or savage. If I was building a long range gun I would use the savage action.
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I hope you are not thinking that little bit of "hot glue" Browning uses in the recoil lug area is what is considered proper bedding.
That is put in all newer Brownings in an attempt to cut down on the amount the action moves in their stocks to keep them from breaking stock.
Browning makes an ok hunting rifle but against a truly accurate rifle they don't come up anything but short.
The amount of GOOD aftermarket parts is nearly nil, scope mounting options of value also are non existant, these are the main reasons you seldom if ever see a Browning turned into a long range precision rig. Plain and simple there are far better options available to get the job done, done properly and with less expense.
 
alberta tactical rifle said:
I hope you are not thinking that little bit of "hot glue" Browning uses in the recoil lug area is what is considered proper bedding.
That is put in all newer Brownings in an attempt to cut down on the amount the action moves in their stocks to keep them from breaking stock.
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No hot glue in there. Its a large ammount (surface area) of a dark brown expoxy glue.I have an exclipse with a 26" heavy barrell so maybe there is something diffrent in there.
 
I agree with Rick on this one, it is a crappy attemp with some hot glue, i've seen a couple examples of bedding and this is like the guy assembling dropped his gum in the stock and didnt bother to take it out and assembled the gun, at least on mine, but thats ok i'm thinkin deer slayer for this one any way. It does shoot great but i think that it'll be easier to modify something else.
 
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ICEDSHOT said:
No hot glue in there. Its a large ammount (surface area) of a dark brown expoxy glue.I have an exclipse with a 26" heavy barrell so maybe there is something diffrent in there.
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Does it look like this? Browning Abolt factory bedding
IMG_0761.jpg


Or like this? Proper bedding
Picture003a.jpg
 
A liitle bedding is better than none at least it keeps the action from moving all over the extra large inletting.
The biggest resons for proper piller bedding is to have full contact of the action to stock so the action can not move around, but just as importantly to ensure even and constant torque on the action screws. Wood and fiberglass stocks can get crushed by over torqueing the action screws or damaged if the action screws are not torqued suffiicently.
 
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