Browning Auto-5 frozen/stripped lock screw

IzzyTheGreat

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Last summer I picked up a Browning Auto-5 in fair condition, it caught my eye in the LGS, the price was right so I picked it up on a whim. Typically I do my research before buying but when I got it home I looked up the disassembly procedures, the most notable feature of which is the proprietary screw slots. Seeing as how everything seemed perfectly functional and I wasn't willing at the time to spend the money on a specialized screwdriver kit until I knew if I liked the gun enough to keep it.

I took it to the range shortly after and ran about 100 rounds of target load through it which it cycled with no complaints. Didn't really use it again until a recent range trip where it was failing to extract (likely culprit is friction rings set improperly or too little/too much lubrication) but after that, I decided I should probably take it apart, and make sure everything else looked good internally. In the interest of frugality, I still did not want to spend the money on specialized screwdrivers, I had read that you can grind your own screwdrivers to fit the slots for less money and a little of your time. So I went off to Princess Auto and came back with some appropriately sized slot-head screwdrivers and ground them to fit with my Dremel. All was going well, the screwdrivers seemed to be working well but I ran into a problem when I had to remove the carrier.

One of the lock screws on the carrier does not want to budge, it is frozen in place. By now I've likely stripped it out as well with my attempts to remove it. The screwdriver wasn't strong enough and bent before camming out of the screw. I was able to get it straightened out to a degree but haven't had any luck getting the screw to budge. I then tried clamping the receiver in a vise, trying to spray lubricant to loosen the screw, and heating it up with a heat gun to no avail. I ground a driver bit to fit and tried using an impact driver but all that accomplished was scratching the side of the receiver. Most recently I tried Screwgrab which really helped with cam-out but my ground-to-fit screwdriver snapped from the extra torque that could be applied.

I'm kind of at a loss for what to do now, hindsight being 20/20 I should have just bought the damn screwdriver set but I may have ended up having this exact same problem. I'm used to working on modern firearms without this problem so I apologize to any Auto-5 enthusiasts who may be sneering at me right now :). Unfortunately, I can't bring myself to put the gun back together as now I've seen the inside of the receiver is absolutely filthy and looks like it's never been cleaned (there was a lot of debris including parts of a feather inside). I'm considering simply sending this into a gunsmith to be fully stripped, cleaned, and overhauled with any new parts that may be needed at this point but that would be an expensive venture.

Does anybody have any suggestions for anything I could try to get the screw out? At this point the lock screw will likely have to be replaced so I'm considering using a screw extractor to get it out and then ordering a replacement.

Also even if I get this taken care of myself at home I would appreciate recommendations on any gunsmiths who would be able to do some work on my gun as I'm thinking it may need some other parts replaced.

Thanks in advance,

Here is a pic, as you can see the head is quite stripped and you can see some of the Screwgrab and shards of my screwdriver as well.

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Recently I had a similar problem which I solved as follows.

First I ground a Slot screwdriver Bit to fit nicely.

Then with the hard plastic Jaw cover over the rear Jaw of my Bench Vice I rested the workpiece with the seized screw against the Plastic. Now my Helper inserted the screwdriver Bit into the screw slot and then carefully closed the Vice enough that the Screwdriver Bit firmly bottomed out in the Screw Slot Bottom. Then he carefully turned the Screwdriver Bit about 1/4 turn with a small Crescent Wrench while the Screwdriver Bit was now unable to slide out. Once the screw moved my Helper relaxed the Vise Grip a tiny bit for another 1/4 turn and so on til the Screw was out.

Good luck
Cheers
 
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Often tight screws can be loosened by taking a punch about the same size as screw head. Tap on head light to moderately rocking over the contour of it. This not only helps to free it up, it also peens the displaced metal of the screw slot back into place. Then tap your driver back into slot. Good drivers ground to fit properly are also a good idea.
 
There is a tool us motorcycle enthusists discovered many moons ago called a hammer impact.
Stick yer bit in the end.
Make sure it’s in the direction you wish to turn.
Whack it with a hammer.

Poor A-5. Sheeeesh.
 
I have had luck getting them out by putting an appropriate sized driver bit in the chuck of my drill press. Then lower the chuck and bit and put PRESSURE on the screw and bit. Rotate the chuck by hand slowly. A little heat and Kroil can assist.

Darryl
 
I like the drill press idea. I will be sure to use it! Impact drivers have never failed me. Make sure what ever slot you use to turn it fits properly. Even get one that’s a little too wide and file it down.
 
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I'm going to give some of these a try later this week if I have time (current events are keeping me quite busy in my free time). Unfortunately, I don't have a drill press so I cannot try the method by madtrapper. I'm going to pick up a gunsmithing screw bit set from the LGS (They sell Wheeler bit sets) I think there should be a bit in there that is a match or at least a close match (and can be lightly ground) to fit.

I think part of the reason my original screwdriver had problems was that it was my first time ever grinding a screwdriver. I think I might have let it get a little too hot and the metal might have lost its temper and gotten brittle.

I'll update with news of my success or further failure when I get around to working on it again.
 
Good news everyone! I am happy to report that I had some success this weekend. To get this job done I went to my LGS and purchased a "Wheeler 89-piece Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set". This set includes a large assortment of hollow-ground flat bits as well as Phillips, hex/allen, Torx, and some really nice specialty bits that I will probably find useful in the future such as a Glock front sight removal tool and a Mauser stock bolt bit. I had looked at some auto-5 specific options but the only set I could find readily available was for purchase from Brownells for $10.99USD. I figured by the time I paid duties and shipping the 89 pcs for $110 was better value. I took my stripped receiver with me and the finer sizes of bits fit the screw slots excellently. They even include 2 of each of the thinner bits in case they break or bend which I think is a nice touch.


I got home right after and got to work, with little effort I was able to get the screw removed. So it looks like the screw wasn't really frozen after all, I overestimated my ability to grind a custom screwdriver and the strength of Chinesium screwdrivers from Princess Auto. :d

I really thought it was a problem with the screw as I was able to remove all the other ones without too much trouble, but they must have been just loose enough to yield to an ill-fitted screwdriver whereas the "stuck" one was in nice and tight. In the photos, you'll see the screw was gummed up with some sort of schmoo which the other screws didn't have so that likely contributed to the problems. I got the gun disassembled, gave it a much-needed cleaning and lubrication. As you can see from the attached photos the gun was filthy and it must not have been cleaned for some time. I'm no expert on this platform (obviously) but all the springs felt like they still have some life left in them and shouldn't need a replacement for a while. These are really nice guns, as far as I can tell mine is a 1951 gun based on the serial no., it has the one-piece carrier which I thought was only on pre-war guns but I guess that's not the case. It is marked FN but from what I can see FN production didn't resume until 1952, and apparently Remington took over production from 1946-1951?

Here are the photos before cleaning;

Screw.jpg
receiver-plate.jpg
dirty carrier 1.jpg
dirty carrier 2.jpg
receiver 1.jpg
receiver 2.jpg
bolt.jpg
return spring plunger.jpg

Now that the gun is clean I plan to remove the magazine restrictor (it looks like a cork dowel which reduces it to 2+1), which will require me to remove the magazine tube. Thus far I have been unsuccessful doing that, I'll probably send it to a gunsmith to do it for me as I don't want to cause further damage to the gun. I'd also like to refinish it and am considering re-bluing, cerakote, and other DIY options, I'll likely start a new topic to get further input when the time comes.

Thanks everybody for the help, without it I likely would have just given up and sent it to gunsmith by now.

Cheers,

Izzy
 

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The mag tube does not need to be removed to remove the mag plug ( or what you call a restrictor) remove the inner plug or stop from the front end. Be careful it is under mag spring tension. Then the plug and follower will come out.

Darryl
 
No need to remove the magazine tube. You won't gain anything by doing so other than work! You may want to consider stripping down the bolt now that you have it out. Lots of 'nooks and crannys' in there.

Watch some of the Youtube videos on re-assembly as installing the trigger group can be a little tricky.

Cheers,
 
The mag tube does not need to be removed to remove the mag plug ( or what you call a restrictor) remove the inner plug or stop from the front end. Be careful it is under mag spring tension. Then the plug and follower will come out.

Darryl

No need to remove the magazine tube. You won't gain anything by doing so other than work! You may want to consider stripping down the bolt now that you have it out. Lots of 'nooks and crannys' in there.

Watch some of the Youtube videos on re-assembly as installing the trigger group can be a little tricky.

Cheers,

@Northern Amatuer I didn't detail strip the bolt, but I did get everything quite clean this weekend. Everything seemed to reassemble correctly the bolt locks back, it feeds dummy shells and the hammer drops and the trigger resets. The Brownells video I watched on disassembly and reassembly definitely helped.

Thanks for the help guys, I consulted the service manual online and it does show you can remove the mag plug from the front. The only problem is mine seems to be quite heavily crimped on the end so it might not be as simple as pulling it out. I'm going to give it a closer look this weekend if I have time and see if I can figure it out.

I'm glad I won't have to remove the whole tube as it is on there really good.

Cheers,

Izzy
 
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