Browning Hi Power parts

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Daumer

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A few years ago I inherited a WW2 Canadian military officers Browning Hi Power MK1 in a 9mm. After I finally got it back from a gun smith, after a long wait I got to take it to the range.

I was only able to fire a couple rounds through it before it would jam, every time. It would stove pipe on me, and also many failures to eject. I tried a few types of 9mm ammo, and I was using brand new magazines.

I am looking for help/advice/tips/ or recommendations on how to get it to function and cycle properly. Also, parts I could buy, and any help with online stores I could buy them from. Or even a gunsmith, ideally located in the lower mainland.

Before I start ordering a bunch of expensive parts for it I thought I'd ask here first.

I'm a life long firearm owner, but this is my first handgun.
I got it from my grandfather, id like to get it functioning flawlessly, and keep it forever.
Thanks in advance..
 
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What was done at the gunsmith?...what ammo was he shooting?

~ Under powered ammo.
~ Weak wristing.
~ Springs too heavy.
 
Lodi said:
What was done at the gunsmith?...what ammo was he shooting?

~ Under powered ammo.
~ Weak wristing.
~ Springs too heavy.
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I believe it was Italian Sporting Goods in Vancouver. It was sent in there by my dad, so I don't know all the details behind it.

All his guns had the firing pins removed, so it got a new firing pin, and as far as I know it was test fired, and some pitting on the barrel was removed.
 
Daumer said:
https://lugerman.com/product/inglis-canada-mki-wwii-production-like-browning-hi-power-9mm-luger/

Thats the one I have
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It's a respectable side arm. The envy of all the CF old school guys here.

Understand that it is a bit of a collector item, and putting new or aftermarket parts on it makes it less than. Only replace what is in fact broken, and save the original parts...and that's not to say anything is broken. Please answer Lodi's questions.

If you are unaccustomed to shooting pistols, "limp wristing" the gun WILL CAUSE a "stove pipe" (brass not completely clearing the ejection port). Get someone who shoots handguns to rip through a mag or two, and if he can...it's you, not the gun.
Also, go back to the gunsmith and ask if there's a record for what was done to the gun, and if you can get a copy. This repair invoice paperwork should follow the gun with the rest of its paperwork. KEEP RECORDS!!
 
Painkillers said:
It's a respectable side arm. The envy of all the CF old school guys here.

Understand that it is a bit of a collector item, and putting new or aftermarket parts on it makes it less than. Only replace what is in fact broken, and save the original parts...and that's not to say anything is broken. Please answer Lodi's questions.

If you are unaccustomed to shooting pistols, "limp wristing" the gun WILL CAUSE a "stove pipe" (brass not completely clearing the ejection port). Get someone who shoots handguns to rip through a mag or two, and if he can...it's you, not the gun.
Also, go back to the gunsmith and ask if there's a record for what was done to the gun, and if you can get a copy. This repair invoice paperwork should follow the gun with the rest of its paperwork. KEEP RECORDS!!
Click to expand...


Only the firing pin was changed, everything else on it stayed the same.
 
Painkillers said:
It's a respectable side arm. The envy of all the CF old school guys here.

Understand that it is a bit of a collector item, and putting new or aftermarket parts on it makes it less than. Only replace what is in fact broken, and save the original parts...and that's not to say anything is broken. Please answer Lodi's questions.

If you are unaccustomed to shooting pistols, "limp wristing" the gun WILL CAUSE a "stove pipe" (brass not completely clearing the ejection port). Get someone who shoots handguns to rip through a mag or two, and if he can...it's you, not the gun.
Also, go back to the gunsmith and ask if there's a record for what was done to the gun, and if you can get a copy. This repair invoice paperwork should follow the gun with the rest of its paperwork. KEEP RECORDS!!
Click to expand...

Personally, I'm not one for nostalgia so an Inglis Browning (as issued) is of no inherent value to me. The only Hi-Power(s) of any interest for me would be a heavily modified one from Mk3 firearms but notwithstanding the unlikelihood of acquiring any new pistols for some time, modern pistols are more my jam.

So issued Browning... carried one... don't miss it. Even got rid of the personally acquired Safariland SLS holster before it too became an issued item.
 
Winz said:
Personally, I'm not one for nostalgia so an Inglis Browning (as issued) is of no inherent value to me. The only Hi-Power(s) of any interest for me would be a heavily modified one from Mk3 firearms but notwithstanding the unlikelihood of acquiring any new pistols for some time, modern pistols are more my jam.

So issued Browning... carried one... don't miss it. Even got rid of the personally acquired Safariland SLS holster before it too became an issued item.
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Okay. @ OP, apparently there is one bitter old fart who isn't interested in your gun. He's taken the time to post his opinion here, but aside from that, he could care less.
 
As a rule, feeding issues are a mag problem, Thou that don't cause a failure to eject, that can be a weak or spring or worn extractor.
New mag could be cheap no name , find a couple quality ones if possible and try them. Mags can usually be tuned to work, if you know what to do.
Or if you know of a owner, try his and have him try the gun.
Check the chamber and make sure the ammo you are using drops in ALL The Way freely with out having to push it down. look for roughness. (No reloads yet)
Play with it and check back.
Only thing you should be buying is mags, extractor, springs & ammo for now.

And check that the slide is sliding smooth on the frame ( no ammo )

I use to have NOS holsters for these things, Flap type, but none left
 
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Take the slide off, clip a round under the extractor and hold the slide facing down so the round is hanging it should be held firm and take some slight movement if not then it may be worn…. Not full proof test but a start.

I had same issue with a star super b, fail to eject and sometimes double feed, well feed new round while spent case not extracted….. extractor was the cause… the test above was one of the indicators…. Try find an extractor for that….. lol…

Long story short, I had to make my own extractor… since then the old girl runs like a Swiss watch …
 
Painkillers said:
Okay. @ OP, apparently there is one bitter old fart who isn't interested in your gun. He's taken the time to post his opinion here, but aside from that, he could care less.
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I'm not a bitter one fart but I suppose I could have made my point clearer. I don't particularly see the Inglis as a 'collector's item.' Sentimental value in the case of the OP perhaps but if I had it, I personally rather have a properly functioning pistol and perhaps some modifications that maintain the spirit of the pistol than a completely original pistol that doesn't perform well.
 
Winz said:
I'm not a bitter one fart but I suppose I could have made my point clearer. I don't particularly see the Inglis as a 'collector's item.' Sentimental value in the case of the OP perhaps but if I had it, I personally rather have a properly functioning pistol and perhaps some modifications that maintain the spirit of the pistol than a completely original pistol that doesn't perform well.
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That's what I was thinking, thanks..
 
Ok, you tried new mags, thats the first wear item, now the next question:
Has the mainspring been replaced with a new 18.5lb to 21lb main spring?
80 year old springs wear out- This aparently comes as a surprise to some people issued these guns.
 
To add to the troubleshooting list, these are little machines. They need oiling. I've had more failures with dry Brownings than anything else. Remove the mag, spritz the light machine oil into the rear exposed slide grooves and into the front frame rails. Cycle the parts by hand to spread out the oil. Lube the trigger pivot and the hammer pivot. Put a dot on the extractor. Again cycle vigourously by hand. Load with NATO standard FMJ ball or something marginally lighter. Then go shoot.

As for the desireability of Brownings, they were the cat's axe for high cap 9s for the longest time. I was issued one going into AFG, and carried it happily on camp with a loaded mag in the frame plus a spare. Never felt cheated or undergunned. The green Safariland holster I picked off the pile in Dubai had a bad rivet which I fixed with a zip-tie. After that no issues. I've shot more live rounds through issue and civilian Brownings than any other handgun. They're good guns. That said, I shot a possible with a Swiss army issue SIG longslide. I could not throw a round out of the 10-ring with that gun. Amazing!
 
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