Browning T-Bolt seized up

MD

MD

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I've got this original production (1960s?) Browning T-bolt a neighbour gave me.

The bolt just slides in and out of the action, and won't lock up.

In addition, I can't get the screws out to separate the barreled action from the stock to look at the action and treat it with some solvent or rust remover or solvent.

Doing some reading, I discovered that the old T-bolt stocks were salt treated. Well I assume that the salt and moisture during storage caused corrosion and thus the seizure. I am thoroughly frustrated with this project. The gun was said to be very accurate in its day but it won't work and I can't take it apart to find out why.:mad:
 
Sounds like that neglected critter needs to be drowned in some penetrating fluid.
Three come to mind, G96, Fluid Film and CLP.
If ever there was a time for tight fitting proper driver bits, now would be the
time to invest.

Soak it down, wrap it up in plastic stretch wrap and let them fluids work there magic.
I wouldn't hurt to change the temperature of that unit from warm to cold and
get that metal action exercising a bit.
 
I don't think any of the above mentioned are much in the way of penetrating fluids... try Kroil or even Hoppes #9.

The bolt only locks up with a firm push forward... try very firm...
 
I have had real good luck with 50/50 mix of acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid as a soaking/penetrating medium. Cheapest way I know of to get a gallon of penetrating juice. Mix together, shake container until milky pink, then immerse object. Put cover on container to minimize acetone evaporating. I have never tried an entire rifle in it though - no idea what it might or might not do to wood, but it does not harm bluing, does very much penetrate into rust and dissolves/loosens dried up oils, grease and associated "stuff". Light "red" rust often wipes completely away with a shop towel, after an overnight soak.
 
guntech said:
I don't think any of the above mentioned are much in the way of penetrating fluids... try Kroil or even Hoppes #9.

The bolt only locks up with a firm push forward... try very firm...
Click to expand...

The bolt just slides in and out of the action with nothing snapping in place to hold it in there.
 
Have you tried inserting the bolt with the safety in the off position? Then pushing bolt forward into the closed (cocked) position.
 
If I recall, the straight pull bolt handle needs to swing forward when the bolt reach the end of its forward travel - that action then cams out lugs that lock the bolt for firing - pulling the handle to the rear retracts those lugs and allow the bolt to withdraw. If there is a lot of gunk, rust inside the bolt, I would expect the symptoms that you describe. Good first step would be an overnight soak for the whole bolt body in some penetrating juice. At some point find an on-line instruction for dismantling that bolt.

Edit - my bad! The T-bolt has the big circle lug on the side, not the internal lugs. None-the-less, the bolt handle does swing forward to lock up the bolt, and must be swung rearward to extract the bolt. If the bolt handle doesn't move back and forth relative to the bolt body, time for a penetrating soak!
 
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I've sprayed every accessible bit with Fluid Film and left it for days, then weeks, then months, mixed up Acetone and ATF, introduced it into holes and gaps everywhere. the thing remains seized up in every way. Nothing will move.
 
MD said:
I've sprayed every accessible bit with Fluid Film and left it for days, then weeks, then months, mixed up Acetone and ATF, introduced it into holes and gaps everywhere. the thing remains seized up in every way. Nothing will move.
Click to expand...

If you live close to a deep lake or the ocean you have a solution waiting for you...
 
Lots of H2O around here.
Send it over and I'll find an appropriate body of fluid for it.
Never say never.
Well, unless yer try'in tuh pewt toofpaste back in the tewb.
 
Is the safety stuck in the up position or the down? I'm guessing it's in the down position if you are able to work the trigger to get the bolt to pass but it's odd that it won't cam into position. Sounds like the bolt is seized up which would not be related to salt wood.

I'd try a good fitting screw driver bit and a mild to wild attack with an impact driver for the action screw.

Does the bolt's toggle move at all?
 
If it's not obviously rusty, my bet would be on the old oil being dried to goo.

Pretty much any solvent and some heat (hair dryer, or better, hot air gun) and some time, should break things loose.

Grind a straight blade screwdriver to fit the screw head properly, use a crescent type wrench to turn the screwdriver while the gun is held in a padded vise.

Otherwise, I'll double yer money, and pay postage too!
 
Personally if I was all but done with it .... I would suspend the entire bolt with a wire coat hanger in a large pot of water and set it to boil for a half an hour .... it will dry immediately it is removed then place a few drops of Kroil or G96 on the parts that ‘ought’ to move ... good luck!
 
Is the safety stuck in the up position or the down? I'm guessing it's in the down position if you are able to work the trigger to get the bolt to pass but it's odd that it won't cam into position. Sounds like the bolt is seized up which would not be related to salt wood.


Does the bolt's "toggle" action move at all?
 
trevj said:
If it's not obviously rusty, my bet would be on the old oil being dried to goo.

Pretty much any solvent and some heat (hair dryer, or better, hot air gun) and some time, should break things loose.

Grind a straight blade screwdriver to fit the screw head properly, use a crescent type wrench to turn the screwdriver while the gun is held in a padded vise.

Otherwise, I'll double yer money, and pay postage too!
Click to expand...

This is a better idea. This will work when nothing else does; grind the bit to fit; tap with a hammer; forward and backward until screw starts to move, then use a regular screwdriver, or keep tapping to remove if still tight:

81ETwFtvgpL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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