BSA Rifle Replacement Stock... rifle from late 1950's PHOTOS UP

bryan.14

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Hi, I have a BSA rifle from the late 1950's. It has developed a crack at the tang, extending from the rear recoil lug about an inch and 1/4.

Does anyone know of Replacement stocks for this rifle?

Would using some glue and a Vise be sufficient to fix the crack?



The Action 7.75 inches long. Spacing between action screws is 7.25 inches.
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Thanks in advance
 
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Its not easy to find an older BSA stock, like hens teeth. Boyds use to make a stock for the Herters, U9 from memory. It is what the BSA were called to market in to the US and only one action length. But definitely worth a try.
 
I don't know the BSA model but my Dad's rifle was bought in 1952 and it is an Enfield P17 action and Boyd's has a couple of options. His is a 30 06
 
Fixing that crack is not hard. Lots of tutorials available. I always use an imbeded steel rod( thin screw Shank works great) Once fixed i would relieve the wood in the tang area a bit and bed the recoil lug. 90% of the time stocks crack like that is the tang is able to contact to wood under recoil acting like a second recoil lug...fix the crack, relieve the tang, bed the recoil lug. Stock should give 80 more years of service
 
Hi, I have a BSA rifle from the late 1950's. It has developed a crack at the tang, extending from the rear recoil lug about an inch and 1/4.

Does anyone know of Replacement stocks for this rifle?

Would using some glue and a Vise be sufficient to fix the crack?

Photos to follow.

Thanks in advance

If you can get some adhesive into the crack, then a clamp of some type (might be surgical tubing or electricians tape rather than a vise) - would likely be a closed and sound joint. There is small brass "all thread" type rods (perhaps #8x32 thread) that can be drilled right through across a crack to hold together - I think is more of a mechanical joint, rather than a glue joint - sometimes a bit fussy to dress ends of that brass rod to be smooth with the surface of the stock, without messing up the stock finish. I have rifles with both repairs - both glued, and then a cross rod, or can even glue in a snug fitting wood dowel instead of that rod - after gluing the crack to be closed.

There are some good suggestions in that thread that is linked in Post #4 - maybe some ideas for you.

More important, for repair, might have to figure out what caused that crack. I am not familiar with an action that has a "rear recoil lug" - for Mausers and Winchester Model 70 types, is only one recoil lug - underneath the receiver near the front - is the only surface that should be transferring recoil from metal to the wood stock - any other vertical surface needs some clearance - a thickness of sheet of paper or three - like at very rear end of tang on a Mauser. If that recoil transfer surface, in the stock, goes soft or punky, then the action can "set back" under recoil - many actions at rear end have a taper shape - if they go backwards, and are "snug fit" to that wood stock, they are creating a splitting force - often seen as a crack on top of pistol grip - extending rearward, behind the rear tang - as if what you are describing??

Correcting myself - I am familiar with Mausers and Win 70 that have two recoil lugs - one is under the barrel - seated / bedded into the forearm of the stock; the second recoil lug is the "normal" one underneath the front of the receiver, ahead of that magazine mortice. Typically were the bigger "boomer" type rifles - like 375 H&H and larger - idea was to spread out the surface area that transferred the recoil pulse to the wood stock. I think is also a thing to place a cross bolt between trigger mortice and magazine mortice - as that recoil pulse travels through the wood - it will want to "wow" out at the magazine - so immediately behind the magazine often wants to split - that crack can then extend rearward through rear action screw hole and into the pistol grip area.

Apparently many systems existed - I just looked at one piece Lee Enfield #4 conversions - appear they had to replicate the recoil transfer to butt stock from the wrist of the unaltered rifle - so those would have had their "recoil lug" almost at very rear of the action - not towards the front of the action.
 
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Epoxy works better than glue no need for a screw accustic guitars are put together with a epoxy and are under way more stress than a rifle stock before the recoil lug the resin it cracked is because the action moves in the stock .
I have repaired 100’s of stocks and guitars in 35 yrs never was used a screw
 
Epoxy versus glue is an area that I do not really understand - when there is an exposed crack, every time I tried with epoxy, I ended up with epoxy showing along the crack line. I have some stocks done in Quebec, I think - multiple pieces joined together - really tight joints - and about nothing for a glue line showing - just difference in the grain shows there is a different piece there. Is something to get such a close fit, one piece to the other, but I do not know how to get such tight joint lines.
 
Hi, I have a BSA rifle from the late 1950's. It has developed a crack at the tang, extending from the rear recoil lug about an inch and 1/4.

Does anyone know of Replacement stocks for this rifle?

Would using some glue and a Vise be sufficient to fix the crack?

Photos to follow.

Thanks in advance

OP - you will need more specific information - review Posts 2, 3 and 5 - were several quite different rifles that were made by BSA in the 1950's, or at least that had the BSA logo on them - for sure some stocks for them will not interchange - so will want to know what Model of rifle that you have - plus, perhaps the distance between the action screws - in order to find a correct replacement stock.
 
You have BSA's based on the Enfield action, the Monarch/majestic action available in 3 sizes and I believe the CF2 action which bears resemblance to a Rem 700. All have different lengths and footprints. To me the most desirable are the ones on the majestic/monarch line. Have to figure out what you have before you can look for a stock.
 
If the old stock is in half decent shape, I would simply fix it - its a relatively easy job. The chances of finding an original replacement stock are close to zero.
 
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Your pictures are showing a lot more than a "crack" at the tang - is something moved or crushed significantly in that stock - but eminently repairable, I would think? But, I suspect repairing the cracks almost pointless unless you can identify what caused that - and correct that cause - often as part of the re-bedding and repair. Many of those "hidden" splits - recoil ledge, between magazine mortice and rear action screw - can maybe receive different glue or epoxy than what you use to close that exposed split in pistol grip to get minimal or no glue line showing.

I believe that you will need to completely remove that trigger guard loop - it appears the wide split on top of pistol grip is extending from the rear action screw hole, into the pistol grip, underneath. I suspect that all those splits and cracks need attention?
 
A well qualified gunsmith can repair that stock, without even knowing there were cracks. I would also suggest to have the action fiberglass bedded, and possibly pins through the cracks/stock to reinforce it along with glue. The rifle appears to saturated with oil, acetone will clean the up. Your BSA rifle appears to be a featherweight Monarch model. It's not uncommon that these stocks were prone to tang cracks, recoil is usually the culprit, caused by the tang hitting the wood during recoil.
 
Your pictures are showing a lot more than a "crack" at the tang - is something moved or crushed significantly in that stock - but eminently repairable, I would think? But, I suspect repairing the cracks almost pointless unless you can identify what caused that - and correct that cause - often as part of the re-bedding and repair. Many of those "hidden" splits - recoil ledge, between magazine mortice and rear action screw - can maybe receive different glue or epoxy than what you use to close that exposed split in pistol grip to get minimal or no glue line showing.

I believe that you will need to completely remove that trigger guard loop - it appears the wide split on top of pistol grip is extending from the rear action screw hole, into the pistol grip, underneath. I suspect that all those splits and cracks need attention?


Yes the trigger guard area is also cracked and will need repair. The wood in these areas seems quite dried out.

I bought this recently off Gun-post and was told there were no cracks in the stock. So I have no idea if this crack was caused in shipping or if it was caused by my spouse. Either way, I'm going to try fix it and keep looking for a new stock as a replacement.

Funny thing is, I don't recall seeing a crack in the wrist when I first looked at this rifle about a week ago. Its like the crack was a hairline that opened up after moving in an out of the safe.
 
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I suspect that raw wood surfaces can take on or give off moisture - if not sealed - I see you are on Van Island - is moist there, I suspect. I had a new Zastava rifle that I bought in 2013 - about 15 months in my storage - never had fired a full power loading - is chambered in 458 Win Mag - was completely cracked between magazine mortice and trigger mortice - all raw wood - no sealing or finish - I suspect it lost moisture here in relatively "dry" Manitoba and likely that caused the crack that I had - the wood shrunk and had to "give" somewhere. In your case, maybe your wood took on moisture from your air - wood fibres swelled - would exacerbate any tension already within the wood?? I do not know.
 
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