Bubba"s backyard bbq parkerizing

toyboy

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here's a quick and dirty repark with pics and instuctions:

step 1 clean parts of all dirt and oils.these are the before pics.we'll use a garand receiver that had the rails cut off of it and a used rear sight for garand:

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rinse with water:

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the park solution:

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the pot on BBQ heated to between 160 and 180 degrees F.stainless steel pot.
into the pot and some bubbling:

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remove from pot after about 15 minutes.rinse with water and oil:

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finished products:the garand receiver you can still see the weld marks
but not too bad.the rear sight is nice and tight:

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hope this helps...
 
It's a good idea to sand/beadblast the metal after degreasing and before immersing in the park solution as this removes all of the old finish and makes the metal surface more reactive for the park solution. It also results in a more uniform appearance. The old weld spots on the receiver will still show up because the receiver was spot annealed by welding in these areas.

An electric, oblong shaped, ceramic crock pot works very well as a parkerizing vessel for doing all of the parts of a Garand, less the op rod and barrel. The glass lid helps keep up the temp and avoids losing solution by evaporation.
 
good to know.i'm not set up for sand/bead blasting yet,maybe some day.
like the post says,bubba backyard BBQ park.:wave:
 
Very cool. It looks like you left the original finish on there or is it just the lighting? I like the fact that you can refinish without stripping the remainder, very convenient.

I've had a bottle of that stuff sittin around for years, still haven't tried it out because I don't have a tank big enough for the barrels.
 
Enameled cooking pots/roasting pans are also useful for BBQ parking.
Blasting does make a difference.
 
i left the original finish and parked over it.
still turned out pretty good.i find the finished product looks slightly
better after the oil soaks into the park after a day or so.
 
Princess Auto sells modestly priced table top blast cabinets. A compressor is needed, of course. A blast cabinet is just a box with ports for gloves, hoses and vacuum. A plywood box works.
 
Now here's Bubba's blasting cabinet. (It's mine. :redface:)

I made it from a large Rubber Maid tote, Princess Auto blasting gun, rubber blasting gloves, and a chunk of chip board. I've done a lot of bead blasting in it and it works pretty well. You can see the vacuum hose at the top to remove dust.

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If a sheet of clear plastic is taped over the inside of the plexiglas window, it can be easily replaced when it becomes frosted.

Brownells can't ship parkerizing chemicals across the border. They are available in Canada.
 
the park chemicals i got at gun shows in ontario.look up "radocy" they ship.
i have a sandblasting gun but need a "bubba" setup like you have.how does the sand or bead get fed to the gun?i used to sandblast commercially but don't remember the system.
 
The gun has its own hopper. The blasting media can be recylced by scooping it off the bottom of the cabinet and dumped back into the gun. I think it holds a couple of cups worth of media. You do have to refill it fairly often, but this gives my small compressor a chance to cool off.

I'll check out Radocy. Thanks.
 
You can make a home brew park solution from supplies at Canadian tire for about $8.00
To make 1 gallon, get one bottle of "RUST STOP" must have phosphoric acid in it. I think it's about 250 ml.
To get a black finish take apart 1 "D" battery for the black maganese.
Add RUST STOP to 1 gallon distilled water, add the maganese, heat the mixture to just under a boil, toss in a degreased steelwool pad, when it's dissolved start parking.
Check out Google, lots of links for this.
These are some parts I did with this home made brew
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All of the above is inspiring. Nice work. That homebrew did a wicked job.

What part of a dry cell battery did you use? Did you use a standard cheap carbon battery, or an alkaline?
 
You can also get the phosphoric acid from a hydroponics shop. What? Don't look at me like that. lol

The manganese or zinc you can get from pottery supply houses.

Having said that, the solution you can buy I have found to give much more consistent results than mixing your own, YMMV
 
All of the above is inspiring. Nice work. That homebrew did a wicked job.

What part of a dry cell battery did you use? Did you use a standard cheap carbon battery, or an alkaline?

I was surprised with how black it turned out. You have to stir it from time to time to keep the maganese suspended.
The battery needs to be alkaline ,even a dead one works but the maganese does start to get damp as the battery dies and it is easier to mix if it's a nice dry powder.
The maganese is the outer ring of the battery, kinda like chaulk. :rockOn:
 
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