Bubba's Ross rifles, Seems WE have an obsession?
- Thread starter flying pig
- Start date
Not a bubba, but I just bought a 1905R sporting rifle. Barrelled action is very nice, the bore is shiny. But the stock had been broken at the wrist. Repaired with glue, screws, plugs covering the screw heads. Added inlay to replace missing wood, and then the stock was refinished with gloss varnish. Going to shoot it, I think the repair is structurally sound. If it is, it will be a dandy shooter, as is.
I thought I had a 1905R at home with a decent stock, but lesser barrelled action. Turns out I didn't; more 1910Rs than 5Rs.
Sooner or later, I'll turn up a better stock.
I thought I had a 1905R at home with a decent stock, but lesser barrelled action. Turns out I didn't; more 1910Rs than 5Rs.
Sooner or later, I'll turn up a better stock.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Claven, there is no wire present but it does have a groove there. Would not surprise me if the wire has been knocked out. She does have some rough handling marks, dented edge on the rear of the blanking plate on the bridge, few safe kisses, couple other metal dings and scrapes, that bit of wood damage at the sling swivel etc. Until we get the good lens for the camera repaired I wont be able to get any decent close ups.
Tiriaq, I have a contact I can ask about a stock for you, no promises though!
Tiriaq, I have a contact I can ask about a stock for you, no promises though!
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- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Claven, here are a couple photos of that rear sight. Could you also do me a favor and compare my sling swivels to yours?
That's the right rear sight, but I might have a more deluxe model than you b/c mine has a platinum wire insert. The swivels are not original. Someone added more modern ones to accomodate a larger sling. The originals can only accomodate a 3/4" sling. I use a 1" sling with 3/4" buckles at either end on mine.
My gun also has a bakelite (or maybe ebony?) grip cap and a checkered steel buttplate with a small top tang.
Some guns have a pop-up peep sight in the rear sight slot. Mine was empty when I got my gun and the front ring was D&T'd. A blessing in disguise as I could never drill an undrilled original, it allowed me to install custom bases (rear is tight-fitted to the dovetail and uses the original set screw) and mount a 1940's Lyman Alaskan.
I'm debating swapping my alaskan for a nice 7/8" vintave Leupold plainsman I have on-hand (awesome scope) with a post reticle. My alaskan has a fine-wire reticle more appropriate to a smaller-calibre rifle.
My gun also has a bakelite (or maybe ebony?) grip cap and a checkered steel buttplate with a small top tang.
Some guns have a pop-up peep sight in the rear sight slot. Mine was empty when I got my gun and the front ring was D&T'd. A blessing in disguise as I could never drill an undrilled original, it allowed me to install custom bases (rear is tight-fitted to the dovetail and uses the original set screw) and mount a 1940's Lyman Alaskan.
I'm debating swapping my alaskan for a nice 7/8" vintave Leupold plainsman I have on-hand (awesome scope) with a post reticle. My alaskan has a fine-wire reticle more appropriate to a smaller-calibre rifle.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Barry D is of the same opinion on my swivels, and after disassembling, cleaning and oiling mine I totally agree. Being a mechanic, I go by a rule of thumb for any disassembly/assembly, if something doesn't seem right it simply isn't. The front swivel is threaded too deeply. I don't think For a second that Ross would have sent one out like that. At some time the swivel loosened off and the threads in the mid section got chewed up pretty good. Also when the rear swivel was installed it was drilled in at a 90* angle to the centre line of the barrel rather than at a right angle to the butt. I assume this is the reason that the stock chipped there when the swivel got hit from the front.
This one has the backelite grip cap and checkered butt plate.
Other than the swivels all numbers seem right on the rest of the rifle. Everything looks gorgeous and ready to be racked now that it has been cleaned and oiled. Now to research reloads for it and decide on a direction there so it can make some noise in the future.
This one has the backelite grip cap and checkered butt plate.
Other than the swivels all numbers seem right on the rest of the rifle. Everything looks gorgeous and ready to be racked now that it has been cleaned and oiled. Now to research reloads for it and decide on a direction there so it can make some noise in the future.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Not sure if they have that pinned down yet? They are compiling a commercial sporter serial number list over at the Ross forum. The newest rifle on that list is in the 18000s so yours is getting up there. They were looking for barrel length and other variations (type of sights, butt plate checkering etc) would you mind if they added yours to their number list if its not on there already?
Bakelite was only invented in 1907 and, like anything new, it would have taken a bit of time to spread.
Gunsmiths, on the other hand, were accustomed to working with HORN already and it was in common use on a lot of sporting rifles and even a few military ons. The adjustment buttons on the rear sight of the SMLE I/I*, for example, were Water-buffalo horn from India. I have a little Belgian 16-bore ladies' gun here with a horn grip-cap. Stuff looks like plastic, takes a much nicer shine.
Plastics DID supplant Horn almost completely, but it took time and still has not won out completely. I really don't think a shop such as Holland and Holland would build a double rifle for $40,000 and equip it with a mail-order 95-cent grip-cap! They still would use Horn, even if they had to eat the whole Buffalo to get it.
Gunsmiths, on the other hand, were accustomed to working with HORN already and it was in common use on a lot of sporting rifles and even a few military ons. The adjustment buttons on the rear sight of the SMLE I/I*, for example, were Water-buffalo horn from India. I have a little Belgian 16-bore ladies' gun here with a horn grip-cap. Stuff looks like plastic, takes a much nicer shine.
Plastics DID supplant Horn almost completely, but it took time and still has not won out completely. I really don't think a shop such as Holland and Holland would build a double rifle for $40,000 and equip it with a mail-order 95-cent grip-cap! They still would use Horn, even if they had to eat the whole Buffalo to get it.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Smellie, that makes perfect sense! They just scream quality!
Sunray I suppose you think high school teachers never break the mold to get their students' attention? Mine studied military history in University, and his Grandfather served in WWI. He was a bit eccentric but pure entertainment. One of the only classes I had a hard time sleeping through. I remember him discussing Ross and Lee-Enfield rifles with us for most of one class in social 30, even had questions on the in class exam about them.
Sunray I suppose you think high school teachers never break the mold to get their students' attention? Mine studied military history in University, and his Grandfather served in WWI. He was a bit eccentric but pure entertainment. One of the only classes I had a hard time sleeping through. I remember him discussing Ross and Lee-Enfield rifles with us for most of one class in social 30, even had questions on the in class exam about them.
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Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
Another highly informative and enlightening post that truly contributes to the conversation and appreciation of Ross Rifles. Any more tidbits for us?
Here is one of my "Bubba" Ross Rifles. No idea who made it, but it is by far my favourite rifle in the safe. However, I do have some rather interesting plans for another "Bubba" Ross of mine, that may well supplant this one as my favourite.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Blastattack, I love that rifle, it's a real looker!
On a side note, what did the Ross factory use to achieve the high gloss finish on the factory sporters? I'm trying to replicate that look on a couple project rifles and can't seem to get it there with BLO
On a side note, what did the Ross factory use to achieve the high gloss finish on the factory sporters? I'm trying to replicate that look on a couple project rifles and can't seem to get it there with BLO
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
Thank you! I love it, and it is by far the best Bubba gun I have ever owned, and ever seen. Someone dumped a whole lot of hours into that stock, and boy does it show.
You'll never get it with BLO. Real, pure Tung oil is your very best bet.
There is a technique you can use with BLO called "French polishing".
It's what they use on high-quality Pianos, Violins and top-of-the-line furniture (NOT Ikea!).
I believe that that is what they did at the Ross plant.
Involves multiple coats of BLO, rubbed in and rubbed off, one after the other. Half a dozen coats should give a nice glow.
It's what they use on high-quality Pianos, Violins and top-of-the-line furniture (NOT Ikea!).
I believe that that is what they did at the Ross plant.
Involves multiple coats of BLO, rubbed in and rubbed off, one after the other. Half a dozen coats should give a nice glow.
Smellie: Frenchpolish is done with clear dewaxed shellac, usually about a 4# cut. The commercial rRoss rifles. Likely do have a French polish and the checkering was cut afterward, them likely given a light brush of unpolished finish to seal it.
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
I stand corrected.
Claven doubtless is correct.
I have, however, seen the basic technique used with BLO, with the addition of Japan Dryer for faster setup and better finish. You must, however, use the highest-grade "artists' quality" BOILED linseed oil. Hardware-store stuff just does not cut it for this kind of finish, although it's okay for using in paint.
I have, however, seen the basic technique used with BLO, with the addition of Japan Dryer for faster setup and better finish. You must, however, use the highest-grade "artists' quality" BOILED linseed oil. Hardware-store stuff just does not cut it for this kind of finish, although it's okay for using in paint.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Thanks Smellie and Claven, I'll have to try and find some. I wonder if Michael's will carry it or shellac?
Guess which rifle this is!
I got sick of looking at the hack job that was done on old Fugly, the sporterizing was done with a jack knife I think. So I did some measuring and there was enough meat left to try and copy the M-10's stock. Took some time but I'm much happier with it now. Now I need a checkering tool and some real BLO and Japan drier, and to re-blue it and it will be a stunning old girl again.
Guess which rifle this is!
I got sick of looking at the hack job that was done on old Fugly, the sporterizing was done with a jack knife I think. So I did some measuring and there was enough meat left to try and copy the M-10's stock. Took some time but I'm much happier with it now. Now I need a checkering tool and some real BLO and Japan drier, and to re-blue it and it will be a stunning old girl again.
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