Buffer in an M14 - yes or no?

Claven2

Claven2

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Running a 2000-made Norc M305 barelled action which is otherwise a NM HRA made USGI gun.

In the past I used a thing 1/8" thich buffer, but it finally wore out. I ordered a replacement online and it came in made of maybe delrin? and was 1/4 thick. Haven't shot it yet like this, but worried this might make it short-stroke as it's a thick buffer.

Do you guys typically run buffers, and if so, which ones?
 
I have one of the Marstar buffers (is yours from Marstar?), and it hasn't caused a problem yet (well, I've had one short stroke out of the first 50 rounds, but the rifle hasn't been properly broken in yet). Just try it, and if you're having problems, remove it (or cut it in half?).
 
I'm honestly thinking of taking it to the belt sander to make it half as thick. It's bloody huge now, and I think it did come from Marstar, though I bought it from someone else who had ordered a good number of them.
 
just one man's opinion...... but as a general rule..... i do not use a buffer in the m14.
i have many friends and clients who run optics and no buffer.
i have seen a couple rifles exhibit cycleing issues with buffer installed and no issues without the buffer.

in my opinion there is no practical advantage to a recoil buffer in the m14.
it will not "save" your optic for those running cheaper or mid road optics and using a buffer "just in case"

wouldn't mind hearing other's experiences and thoughts on this as it's a topic not often brought up....... and not mentioned in the armourers manuals
 
Use it and see if it works but honestly, it is completely not needed.

In fact, some even argue that it would harmful in the long term to the OpRod. The idea is to have the oprod tube bottom out on the receiver at the same time as the rear of the bolt touches the rear. Some argue that putting a buffer prevents the bolt from touching and therefore one has a significant mass battering to a jerking halt. This can cause undue wear on the bolt roller recess as well as the arm of the oprod itself.

YMMV
 
I recall asking this exact question before and this was the best answer I got:

m39a2 said:
An M-14 is designed so that the rear face of the bolt, and the rear face of the op rod contact the reciever, (at the rear and at the front of the reciever respectively), at the same time thereby dividing the force of the bolt recoiling between those two pieces. When you install this buffer thingy, the op rod comes to a halt before the bolt and then the op rod takes all of the force right at it's weakest point, the roller bearing cut out.

Hows that for an explanation?

Scott
Click to expand...

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353187
 
yup, i'd agree with that
it's like they used to say and still do in the sports fishing industry..... some products catch fish....... many products catch fishermen LOL

and so it is with recoil buffers hehehe.... at least they are cheap and those buying them don't feel too bad to find out they aren't really that useful
 
I have a Norinco M305 8 years old 5-8 thousand rounds put through it. About 2 years ago the buffer was beat to sh!t/destroyed after a 2-400rd trip to the range.The Chinese spring must have taken a set because it was sudddenly 2-3 inches shorter.

So I changed out to a Wolf spring and put in new buffer. Without the buffer i`m sure something would have been damaged.
 
Anyhow, Iremoved it. If I start seeing any peening or signs of hard impact where the oprod contacts the receiver face, I'll put it back in.
 
I saw AR180shooters bolt buffer at the M14 clinic, I thought it did look a bit thick. I remember thinking that if i was going to make up a few at my shop I was only going to make them half as thick. If AR180's rifle is working fine I don't think the thick one will be a problem at all.
 
I use a Marstar buffer in my two rifles. I have not had any problems with them. I got them as I know that my M14 loads are right at the maximum in terms of pressure for an M14, and I was hoping the buffers would eat up some of the metallic "whack" at the back end of the firing stroke, both to make it easier on my optics and on the rifle itself. They seem to have done that. The other thing I have done to reduce the violence of cycling, and hopefully make my rifles last longer, is drill a 3/64" hole out the end of the gas nut to vent excess gas (1/32 works too, but 3/64 vents a bit more, and still cycles 100% with 165's). This has had a much more significant impact than the buffers.
 
M14Doctor said:
i have seen a couple rifles exhibit cycleing issues with buffer installed and no issues without the buffer.

in my opinion there is no practical advantage to a recoil buffer in the m14.
Click to expand...

And this is exactly my experience. I had a buffer in one of my M14's and it was the ONLY time the rifle gave me any grief...

Now, I run with NO buffer...

Cheers
Jay
 
Thomas, thanks for making the videos. I think it helps show what a couple of us have been trying to explain.
 
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