Buffer Spring! To Grease Or Not To Grease?

mlehtovaara

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What are you guys doing with the buffer tube/spring for lube if any?

Was at the range today and was told I should grease it well.

Also wondering what is the best oil for the bolt/carrier?

I seem to be getting the occasional light strike, and the only thing I can imagine is the bolt isn't seating properly. I have since stripped it completely and oiled the hell out of it, but looklng for opinions on the best lube.
 
I know one guy that lubes his so much that he doesn't have that post shot spring twang that the rest of us get. He really hates that sound, and I guess it works for him.

I don't put any lube on mine at all. In fact, I don't lube the rear fist width of the bolt carrier at all so that no lube will get back there. It might not be how some choose to do it, but it is what I do, and know to work between at least -30 and +30 though.
 
I only use light Break Free CLP on the spring, you should not be using grease or anything like that.

That "sprong" sound is normal.

Best oil for the bolt/carrier is personal perference. I use Break Free CLP, some like EWL, etc etc. The key is the correct place and running that thing wet. You run into problems when they are dry.
 
I dont lube/grease the buffer spring.

As far as bolt/bcg, whatever... I like using grease these days, but there are lots of options. Just keep it wet.
 
I've never greased any of mine. I just keep the tube and spring clean followed by a light oiling and then dried just to keep a light "film" of oil on it preventing the collecting of moisture and corrosion.
 
I never used grease. I used a patch soaked in CLP to coat the spring with a film of oil to prevent rusting.

The sproing is annoying, but not worth risking a problem with caked dirt/grease.
 
What are you guys doing with the buffer tube/spring for lube if any?

Was at the range today and was told I should grease it well.

Also wondering what is the best oil for the bolt/carrier?

I seem to be getting the occasional light strike, and the only thing I can imagine is the bolt isn't seating properly. I have since stripped it completely and oiled the hell out of it, but looklng for opinions on the best lube.

Be prepared for MANY differing opinions on this forum from unknown sources-:rolleyes: Heed those that are known experts (maybe);)

Test for yourself and learn what works.
Yes - motor oil,sperm whale oil,vaseline,smegma etc. WORKS , but there is stuff that works much better .:)

Grease in the buffer tune for the spring slicks up the cycling action and very little D I gas dirt reaches it. A slick cycling bolt is faster and stronger which ensures efficient and complete lock up.

D I guns sh!t where they eat - so lots of Break Free CLP keeps the carbon in suspension so it blows out the ejection port. Oil tends to keep the krap inside.CLP residue impregnates the metal keeping it slick when dry.

CLP has been the military standard for many years for their D I guns -
Even their Vulcan miniguns.

Your hammer spring may be to soft accounting for light primer strikes but I doubt it as I have lightened hammer springs for A.R. 's VERY severely and have had consistant primer ignition with hard primers.

:ar15:
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Be prepared for MANY differing opinions on this forum from unknown sources-:rolleyes: Heed those that are known experts (maybe);)

Test for yourself and learn what works.
Yes - motor oil,sperm whale oil,vaseline,smegma etc. WORKS , but there is stuff that works much better .:)

Very true...


1) We all have different opinions... I've seen were some manufactures say in their manuals that you should put a little oil or grease on the buffer tube spring. I've seen others who make no mention of it in their manuals. I've meet gunsmiths who are adamant about greasing the buffer tube spring, then others who say it doesn't matter.

Who's correct... I dunno... Like i said before, Personally I dont do it. I've never had an issue with the sprong noise... Never had an issue with premature buffer tube wear... Meh



2) I agree with testing stuff for yourself to find out what works best for YOU and YOUR GUN. I see lube like ammo (you should find out for yourself).
 
This is my SR gun, and what it looks like with around 2000 rounds through it since cleaning (with the ocasional wipe of the lower; but the buffer has remained unchanged). As indicated by the photos, there is very little in the way of contamination, be it products of combustion or dirt, water, etc.. Several of our matches and clinics happened in snow, mud, rain too - so this has seen a fair amount more than 'bench to case and back again'.

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Anything that goes with or inside the lower receiver needs only a light coat of CLP - mostly for rust prevention. A drop of oil into the bolt catch latch is pretty much all it needs.
 
So I greased it up today with some synthetic grease from a tube I had laying around, and I was pleasantly surprised!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Seemed to smooth out the operation of the bolt quite a bit, and everything seemed much better as far as cycling while playing around at home.

So off I went to the range, and there was not one single light strike, or seating issue! Could be the fact that I cleaned and oiled the #### outta the bolt, but could also be from the grease.

Who knows, but from now on it is grease for me!
Oh and no more twang from that buffer spring is nice to.
 
I lightly oil mine since the receiver extension is a natural place for condensation to form and I want to protect it from corrosion.
Who gives a #### about a sproing sound when a friggin' muzzle blast is a foot away?
 
Except -

Anything that goes with or inside the lower receiver needs only a light coat of CLP - mostly for rust prevention. A drop of oil into the bolt catch latch is pretty much all it needs.

Except maybe those camo painted Remington AR's -

The paint is also inside the receiver - the bolt feels like it rides in sandpaper when it cycles - until broken in, they like heavy applications of go juice -

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:ar15:
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