Build a 10/22 to cycle all ammo, from CCI Quiets up to CCI Stingers, is it possible?

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G.Mitchell

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I am looking to take on another 10/22 build, this time I am going to use a Magpul X-22 stock and a TacSol 16" .920 barrel.

I want to set this up more as a hunting/precision rig but will also run and gun a little with it. I want to be able to run quiets so I don't bother the neighbours when I shoot on my land.

I am wondering if a standard 10/22 can be modified to run ammo from quiet/subsonic up to high velocity ammo.

I know different springs can be swapped back and forth to run different ammo, I am curious if I could get it to run properly without the need to swap out recoil springs when changing ammo type.

I would imagine a recoil buffer would be wise too?

Any feedback or experience would be most appreciated.

Thanks
 
Probably could get a standard Ruger sporter barrel to run subsonic to stinger with just a slightly lighter spring.
Match chamber will probably not work very well, might not even run stingers without blowing holes in them.
I'd ditch the idea or lower expectations....
 
Guys claim that radiusing the bolt makes a big difference in cycling with the lower energy rounds.

I would think that you would have to do that, plus a lighter spring, and then a bolt buffer to offset the beating that the back end of the action would take from the high energy rounds, then you would pretty much have it covered.

No free lunch. If you make it so the light loads cycle it reliably, the faster ammo will pummel the poo out of the back end of the action.

Cheers
Trev
 
G.Mitchell said:
I am wondering if a standard 10/22 can be modified to run ammo from quiet/subsonic up to high velocity ammo.
Click to expand...

No...


From Subs to Hyper would require two, maybe three spring changes/tunes... unless you are OK with constant cycling and extraction problems. I tune my semi's to one preferred ammo and stick with it... usually an SV or Sub of some sort... or MM'S.
 
I've never had my 10/22 apart to see what the innards are like so I have no clue what I'm talking about BUT HEY! This is the internet so I'm obliged to offer my worthless advice:


Couldn't you just use a REALLY light recoil spring that's just a wee bit short in front of a REALLY heavy spring that occupies the wee space leftover from the light spring?

For the Quiets, the bolt would cycle back on the light spring, then bounce off the heavy spring.

For mini mags, the bolt would fly back like there's no spring at all, but the heavy spring would catch it and absorb the rearward motion before damage could happen.

Crazy?
 
kodiakjack said:
I've never had my 10/22 apart to see what the innards are like so I have no clue what I'm talking about BUT HEY! This is the internet so I'm obliged to offer my worthless advice:


Couldn't you just use a REALLY light recoil spring that's just a wee bit short in front of a REALLY heavy spring that occupies the wee space leftover from the light spring?

For the Quiets, the bolt would cycle back on the light spring, then bounce off the heavy spring.

For mini mags, the bolt would fly back like there's no spring at all, but the heavy spring would catch it and absorb the rearward motion before damage could happen.

Crazy?
Click to expand...

Too light of a spring and the HV rounds are still burning while being extracted... Best case you get a hand and face full of burning powder, worst case the head blows off causing some damage to you and the gun. It's the spring and weight of the bolt that keeps the round in the chamber long enough for the pressure to drop so it can be safely extracted.
I know when my MkII pistol is ready for a new spring when I start getting powder burns on my hand....
 
Does it have to be a 10/22? Either a bolt action or a lever action wouldn't care about the load.
 
Once again Hitzy nails the post I'm about to make :)
Spring rate and bolt weight control action timing. With a blowback action you are utilizing the energy of the powder charge to both drive the bullet down the bore and push the casing out of the chamber hard enough that once the case mouth clears the chamber the bolt is travelling fast enough to eject the casing. Tuning the 10/22 action is about more than spring rate. Like I told Ravage when I helped him wrap up his full custom DAR/Kidd build, I said this rifle probably won't even need a break in to run good and if anything might have issues with a tight fitting charging handle. The rifle ran flawless other than some RemDuds. The reason I felt that way was the smoothness of every important surface in the rifle thanks to being built entirely from high end parts. The smooth, polished and radiused bolt, smooth bolt raceway, smooth hammer face, smooth hammer spring strut and pivot points, light hammer spring, polished recoil spring guide rod. I recommended the medium spring and it worked out perfect. Addressing all these points in a 10/22 with the goal of reducing friction while cycling is what creates a deadnuts reliable 10/22. My 1989 10/22 uses mostly factory original parts but it took smoothing everything out and tuning spring lengths to get it to the point where I can run piles of BC steel lip mags through it without a stoppage or frequent cleaning. Shortening the recoil spring will begin to help but at a certain point will cause timing issues where cases are extracting too soon causing alot of powder fouling and metallic bits blasting out of the ejection window and hitting your hands and face. Split cases are common. Its a balancing act. Focus on smoothing everything out then fine tune spring rate based on ammo choice. Mine will run subs, std and hv with a factory sporter chamber reliably. I know you can make this happen G.Mitchell, I've seen the trigger work you're capable of and I have no doubts in your abilities.
 
supernova said:
Once again Hitzy nails the post I'm about to make :)
Spring rate and bolt weight control action timing. With a blowback action you are utilizing the energy of the powder charge to both drive the bullet down the bore and push the casing out of the chamber hard enough that once the case mouth clears the chamber the bolt is travelling fast enough to eject the casing. Tuning the 10/22 action is about more than spring rate. Like I told Ravage when I helped him wrap up his full custom DAR/Kidd build, I said this rifle probably won't even need a break in to run good and if anything might have issues with a tight fitting charging handle. The rifle ran flawless other than some RemDuds. The reason I felt that way was the smoothness of every important surface in the rifle thanks to being built entirely from high end parts. The smooth, polished and radiused bolt, smooth bolt raceway, smooth hammer face, smooth hammer spring strut and pivot points, light hammer spring, polished recoil spring guide rod. I recommended the medium spring and it worked out perfect. Addressing all these points in a 10/22 with the goal of reducing friction while cycling is what creates a deadnuts reliable 10/22. My 1989 10/22 uses mostly factory original parts but it took smoothing everything out and tuning spring lengths to get it to the point where I can run piles of BC steel lip mags through it without a stoppage or frequent cleaning. Shortening the recoil spring will begin to help but at a certain point will cause timing issues where cases are extracting too soon causing alot of powder fouling and metallic bits blasting out of the ejection window and hitting your hands and face. Split cases are common. Its a balancing act. Focus on smoothing everything out then fine tune spring rate based on ammo choice. Mine will run subs, std and hv with a factory sporter chamber reliably. I know you can make this happen G.Mitchell, I've seen the trigger work you're capable of and I have no doubts in your abilities.
Click to expand...

Thanks buddy, I appreciate all the input and encouragement.

Seems like it might be too much to ask to have it run on all ammo types, needing to hand cycle the quiets really isn't that big a deal.

I am looking for a good do it all rifle so if the trade off is hand cycling the quiets that's not a huge deal. I certainly don't want to create an unsafe condition.
 
Hitzy said:
Too light of a spring and the HV rounds are still burning while being extracted... Best case you get a hand and face full of burning powder, worst case the head blows off causing some damage to you and the gun. It's the spring and weight of the bolt that keeps the round in the chamber long enough for the pressure to drop so it can be safely extracted.
I know when my MkII pistol is ready for a new spring when I start getting powder burns on my hand....
Click to expand...

Thanks for your info, I didn't consider that.
 
My 10/22 would cycle pretty decent with CCI subsonics before I radiused the back of the bolt. Afterwards it's pretty solid. I haven't had any issues with high velocity ammo either. I haven't tried CCI quiets to see if they cycle though.
Kristian
 
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