Build
- Thread starter Reaper665
- Start date
Yes, many people have. - dan
Certainly you can give more attention to detail as a hobbyist than most factories can afford. Then it becomes a question of skills and how deep you want to get into the process. An 80% frame will give you the most to work with but it's gonna be fairly intensive in tools and time. Pretty much any good 1911 build will be.
Also before you get to deep into it, make sure you can score all the parts you want. Not everyone is exportable from the states so you might have to settle for your second or 3'rd choice of internals, barrels, ect.
gl
Also before you get to deep into it, make sure you can score all the parts you want. Not everyone is exportable from the states so you might have to settle for your second or 3'rd choice of internals, barrels, ect.
gl
What exactly do you mean by "if anyone has ever "built" one better than a factory model?"
By "building" a competition 1911 , one starts with a good frame and maybe slide then tightens slide to frame fit, the frontstrap is extended upwards flush with the botom of the trigger guard and the front strap is hand checkered with 20LPI - mill bottom of magwell and silver solder on mag well so it doesn't extend below the normal grip length (the US BOX), cut frame and fit beavertail, replace all original springs and hammer/sear/disconnector system, fit ambi thumb safeties, probably an extended mag release but SELDOM an extended slide stop. Then the slide is polished inside especially the locking lug area and breech face - ejection port is lowered - dovetail cut for front sight and installed and the same done for a Novak rear sight. Then a custom barrel is fitted to the slide (hood filed to fit) and the slide/barrel is slid on the frame and the lower locking lugs cut with a special tool. A new extractor is "tuned and fitted" and probably a new ejector tuned and fitted. Firing pin fitted with heavier spring and both locked into place by the firin pin stop. At this point the gun would be completely assembled and test fired to assure everything works. "First make it work - THEN make it purty" prevails. Polishing polishing and more polishing and then bluing finishes up the metal work then grip studs replaced and custom grips installed to complete the project.
