Building a Cheap Mosin Scout

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canuck94

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Removing the rear sight leaves you with a perfect 22 rail to mount your long eye relief scope onto.

Best of all it's FREE

The rear sight is held in place in most cases but not all, with 2 pins that can easily be removed. This was the case with the model that I had to work with. Some are soldered as well as pinned and require heat to remove the sight.

It's solid as a rock and it's as low as you can go making for quick sight acquisition.

Once tested I will make the decision as to spending more on a new stock or leave it as is.


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Any plans for the barrel?

Did you start with a fullsize mosin, or a carbine length?

Some day I wanna make a custom mosin, including a new stock, turned bolt handle, scout scope, and a chopped/recrowned barrel around 24" long... One day... Brownells sells crowning tools for like $50...
 
canuck94 said:
Removing the rear sight leaves you with a perfect 22 rail to mount your long eye relief scope onto.

Best of all it's FREE

The rear sight is held in place in most cases but not all, with 2 pins that can easily be removed. This was the case with the model that I had to work with. Some are soldered as well as pinned and require heat to remove the sight.

It's solid as a rock and it's as low as you can go making for quick sight acquisition.

Once tested I will make the decision as to spending more on a new stock or leave it as is.


IMG_20150219_185347_404_zpsi7dsfeg1.jpg
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I read that method tends to walk. Since its between 11.6 and 12.6mm dovetail. Rings don't get enough clamp.

bp2626 said:
I suggest you get one of these: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002TUSJVQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

For my scope medium was fine, other's use high. They are a much more solid mount for the dovetail and are less likely to walk. They have a set screw as well. What I did was drill out a slight hole for the set screw to go down into.
Click to expand...

I used same style method but with a weaver. But switch over to this.

ONLY the 91/30 and the 91/59 have the dovetail under the rear sight.

Later tonight I'll post my 19" mosin in carbine stock and scout scope.
 
bp2626 said:
I suggest you get one of these: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002TUSJVQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

For my scope medium was fine, other's use high. They are a much more solid mount for the dovetail and are less likely to walk. They have a set screw as well. What I did was drill out a slight hole for the set screw to go down into.
Click to expand...

Not worried about slippage at this stage and if it were to become an issue I can either use one of the original pins to lock one of the bases in or I can mig weld a stop on the rail ends.
 
canuck94 said:
Not worried about slippage at this stage and if it were to become an issue I can either use one of the original pins to lock one of the bases in or I can mig weld a stop on the rail ends.
Click to expand...

Or drill and tap the rings for a setscrew and drill into the base a bit.
 
Suther said:
Any plans for the barrel?

Did you start with a fullsize mosin, or a carbine length?

Some day I wanna make a custom mosin, including a new stock, turned bolt handle, scout scope, and a chopped/recrowned barrel around 24" long... One day... Brownells sells crowning tools for like $50...
Click to expand...

It was full size but I cut it down to 20" for this mod. If you do want to mod a Mosin I would suggest you go slow. Check the accuracy of what you have purchased by mounting whatever final optic or sight you want on your finished product and then do your cutting so you can recheck any changes in accuracy. Anyone with a lathe can recrown for less than buying your tools from Brownells would be.
 
I wasn't 100% certain on dovetail stability, so I went with the S&K scout mount on my M44, with a Hi-Lux LER scope. Took my first buck with it this past season.
 
I did similar build with my 91/30, but guess I was SUPER unlucky - not only my rear sight base was soldered, but also pins that were holding it were all covered in solder, and in addition base had 2 screws through the mount into the dovetail base... Those screws were kinda - "no way you gonna pull them out you capitalist pig!!!!" :) So few hours later and two broken pin punches I gave up and cut the base in the middle with dremel cutting wheel (along with those vertical crews) and then after re-heating with propane torch knocked each half off.

L1dBdeS.jpg


Here is base I used (UTG 22 offset)
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Base also has 2 vertical screws, so I made 2 notches on dovetail to help making this build solid
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here is final result
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Scope is cheap AIM 2-7x32 LER


I took it to the range last weekend and shot about 50 rounds - so far so good. I hope it will stay this way :)

Scope + mount from amazon were under $100 (tax and shipping included).
 
How's length of pull on these? I know it's tiny on the sks i assume the same for this? Has anyone tried that extended recoil pad for these?
 
at 100y most groups were withing 3" circles I had as targets. Vertical spread was almost always about twice bigger then horizontal.
Love the rifle. Trigger is a ##### tho :( I think with better trigger I could shoot better... I hope so

Overall, yes I'm satisfied :) I didn't expect it to be 1moa
 
You're right about having reasonable expectations regarding accuracy. They were not designed to be tack drivers only cheap and fast to build in order to arm a desperate army that was being annihilated by the Nazis.

Having said that, they are easy to work with and cheap for the foreseeable future.
 
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This base is kinda too long for the handguard to go on proper ( unless I cut out a notch ) Still waiting for my UTG offset one. I just ended up making new bands and moving the handguard forward and mount forward a bit.
 
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canuck94 said:
Base looks solid enough and everything clears the scope. Way to go.
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I wanted it low enough. The offset after I looked at some setups would been too high. Also I wanted to limit the weaver adapter and weaver rings. I just didn't think this be this LONG. But its super secure. I was re thinking to drill and tap a new mount hole, and notch the base to fit the handguard under but zip ties make the new bands.

Using this setup ( dovetail under ) most wont notice but its off bore by a couple degrees. Only because the dovetail under the rear sight is tapered. So it will be off left or right depending on which side the solid part is.
 
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