Building a cheap wood stock

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I would like to build a cheap wood stock to drop my 10/22 target into.

It would be painted in duracoat or a similar product and have some rails/ tactical stuff on it.

I don't feel it is necessary to spend 150$ on a plastic stock so if I can make a descent one on my own I will.

So where do I start? A 2x6 and a jig saw? Jk what is cheapest way to do this considering it would be with me a while.

My dad is also a heavy duty mechanic with 30+years with him and should have most of the tools I will need.

Thanks for the help!
 
It would really be nice if just picking up a piece of lumber and carving it into a stock was all there was to it.

You say you have a 10/22 Target???? Why would you want to jeopadize its accuracy by putting it into a stock that hasn't been cured properly????

Not trying to stop you from building your own stock but you need to do some research first.

Do you have a piece of wood that is straight grain, knot free and cured slowly for a couple of years or more????

That's why the wood is so expensive for good stocks, It's a 3-5+ year investment and if it isn't done properly, the stock blank will check internally and you won't see it until you carve to it. Or, it will warp and twist in different temperatures as well as humidity conditions.

Those $150 plastic stocks aren't really a bad deal when you consider the advantages to them.

Now, as for laminates. The same thing goes for the wood used in them. If you're going to use thin multiple layers of veneer, they need to be dried slowly and properly, before they are glued together. If not, they are just trouble waiting to brew.

You can pick up a very decent solid wood or laminate stock from a Canadian stock maker or a US stock maker. Check it out.

By the time you consider the costs of the tools, glue, etc. The semi inletted stocks are actually cheap.
 
You need maple, maybe birch, or walnut, and it has to be extremely well-cured, otherwise it will shrink on you as it dries. And any wood stock will be much more sensitive to humidity than a synthetic or laminated one. Check on EE, you might be able to pick up a used one.
 
Get some baltic birch plywood, glue them together with exterior-grade glue (+-2 inches thickness), do the inletting first, do the bedding while the stock is still square, and at the end only you do the exterior shape.

I posted a couple of step-by-step post showing how I do my stocks, just search the post started by me and feel free to ask question if you want.
 
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The advantage to the laminated stock contruction is that you can plan where to NOT put a piece of wood, and thus have a lot of your stock already rough "hogged out" in places like the barrel channel, the action and magazine portion and even the trigger group area. One disadvantage is that laminated stocks are a bit harder on carving tools and the glue will dull tools fairly fast.

Expense is another factor. Good glues or epoxy costs money and must be mixed correctly. Proper wood must be used, and it takes time and effort to gather all these components together, not to mention money spent. And don't forget about the shipping costs which can be quite expensive.

My advice to someone who is going to "make" their first stock is to look on the Internet and see what is available in a shape that they might light. For the 10-22, there are lots of stocks available. Boyds for example, makes many different laminated stocks at a price that is less than you probably would pay for starting from scratch, not to mention the time and work involved.

Someone suggested using a 2x6. A 2x6 is 1 1/2 inches thick, and 5 1/2 inches wide, and might be all right for and old single shot .22, but is way too narrow in width and thickness for what you propose. As mentioned, people who supply stock grade wood will air dry it for up to five years as kiln dried wood is all right for a house or lumber, but gunstocks are a different thing all together.

Also, you want something that you can be proud of, and that looks great, but most of all, it has to be something that will bring out the accuracy of the rifle itself. Gunstock woods are selected for figure, stability and sound wood. Most of these attributes are not there when you get wood from your local hardware store or Home Depot lumberyard.

Save yourself some agony, and buy a semi-finished wood stock to begin with.
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Well, if you want to learn how to make stocks, you must start somewhere. Actually, you can glue up two 2x6 and give it a try. If it does not work, burn it and try again. My first stock was ugly and not that great, I still have it, but the last one I made is very nice.

I say go ahead, try it, you will be happy you did
 
Comstar said:
I would like to build a cheap wood stock to drop my 10/22 target into.
!
Click to expand...

you start by bedding the action and floating the barrel. Probably be wise to make a couple of pins that screw into the bolt holes for securing the action to the stock. Drill the holes in the stock and drop the action and pins down the holes so that everything stays in the correct orientation as you are inletting. Most of the tools you need are hand tools; mostly chisels for inletting
As others have said; unless you want to do it for the challenge, you are far better off buying a stock than making one

cheers mooncoon
 
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