Building a custom action.

I dont expect it to be extremely precise i excpect it too be about 2 times worse than most half decent rifles that would be why i put "precision". I agree i am in way over my head thats why i have the engineers and machinists along my side. Like i said Id love to buy an action that i was able to work on and upgrade yet i cant find a cheap one {havent researched the two i spoke of above yet}. I dont care if the round turns out to be expensive, thats a small cost i can go and shoot 5 rounds a trip if i have to, i cant shoot without an action.

Thanks Steve
 
unfortunately im not allowed to vissit that link you posted Bishopus. Could you tell me how much they want for it? I think the remington 700 would be a bit ricy would it not? Yea i may go for the .338 RUM instead.

Thanks Steve
 
Sorry to post right away again but I was just looking at the Stevens series and the 112BVSS those both look like doable options. The only problem is i couldnt really find a source that sold the actions only they were all in some type of rifle. I do have a couple questions though, how much work would it take to make these actions accept .338? Then how customizable {sp?} are these actions ie: in the future will i be able to tinker with it when i get more money and mak it more accurate or will it be kinda a dead end? I realise i cant be picky with my budget so im not going to try to be im just curious.

Thanks Steve
 
Stevens $320 new, complete rifle.

Leave it small shank and buy a barrel. Pre threaded and chambered preferred but you may want to do that considering your interest. No real need to use a large shank. Savage originally made RUM's and WSM's with an action diameter of 1.055x20 tpi as that was the normal action thread diameter. They increased the barrel tenon diameter for the large cases and obviously had to increase the action thread diameter. Large shanks are 1.120"x20 tpi. Savage makes very good action threads, so unless you can make perfect threads, you might want to leave it.

The 338 rum is doable in the Savage/Stevens [same thing case you didn't know]. If you pick up a Stevens in a rem mag caliber, you can use it as is and just swap the barrel. I highly recommend getting a new recoil lug, the factory ones are stamped and not that flat. Would be a single shot though.

If you want to learn how to shot long range, buy a 12BVSS in 243WIN and a good minimum 24X scope and head out today.

If you want to build your own, buy a Stevens and the parts you want, takes a little while and more expensive but better.

If you want to make your own, consider heat treated 4340 or 17-4PH :D

Cheers
 
So there is no place to buy just the actions? I only want the action not the complete rifle its a nusaiance {sp?} to have to buy a whole rifle then sell off the stock and barrel. Yea id like to pick up a mag version of the stevens or 112BVSS from what i understand the only difference is the accutrigger.

Thanks Steve
 
I think the reason that some are suggesting you need to do a lot of research first is showing through in your questions; for example there is a tremendous amount of work in building a bolt action from raw materials and it is only economical if you have the ability and can do the work yourself. The skill required probably exceeds my abilities and I would not attempt the project. I have several thousand hours experience on a lathe, I should mention.
Another example would be your concerns about buying a barreled action and discarding the barrel; $320 for an action then sell the barrel for say $50 -$75 to another hobbiest is darn cheap in my opinion.
I don't agree with those who say you have to buy a lot of tooling; if you have access already to a machine shop and to lathes then you should be making your own tooling. Chamber reamers for example are not that hard to make (time consuming and exacting though) and cost $100 or more to buy but $2 or $3 to make.
Bottom line is that you need to read the suggested books and to develop your machining skills first. The reason that I suggested the vault lock is that it is the only action I can think of that is designed to be built by a home shop machinist and yet appears to be a strong action. There was another action with detailed plans in the magazine "Home Shop Machinist" (think that was the title) and later published as a book, but my memory of it was that it was a fairly complex action compared to the vault lock.

cheers mooncoon
 
I agree that i am inexperienced that is why the machinist are doing the work. Im not paying them they wanna play with it just as much as i do. these guys have been doing it all their lifes, one owns a machine shop and the other has full access to one. Oh i agree that buying a barreled action is cheap, I was just hoping to get away without having to sell the extra stuff. I'm rebuilding a camaro right now and i bought a transmission and drive shaft and rearend and i didnt want the rearend {he wouldnt part it all out} he said "oh dont worry theres always a car guy out there looking for one of these" guess what? I still have a rearend that im trying to get rid of plus many other parts, its not always that easy.

Thanks Steve
 
Hi Steve, glad to have you here. You sound quite young, I'm guessing in your early to mid teens, this is a good thing glad see young people with as much interest as you in the sport.

The simple fact of the matter is scratch building an action is only worth it if you have a lot of money and time and are doing it merely as a hobby. There is no way to make your scratch built action more economical than a commercial one, in my mind. You will be shooting much much sooner with a commercial action as well.

As for actions alone, unless you are planning to buy a custom action (much more $ than a complete commercial rifle, but also much better) it is cheaper to buy the complete rifle and take the action from it.

Next, .338 Lapua has heavy recoil without a muzzle brake, very heavy. It is not pleasant to shoot without a brake unless you are using a 20lb rifle, you will more than likely develop a flinch from it. I have owned up to .375 RUM in an 8lb rifle, so I know recoil and am comfortable with it, but I wouldn't want to do unbraked shooting from a Lapua for long. In a standard weight rifle without a brake, recoil is downright brutal.

Next, there's no such thing as a "good/cheap barrel", spend your money wisely. You get one or the other, good or cheap, they seldom come together. You mentioned buying US made barrels, do realize you need export permits and paperwork to take a barrel out of the US and this is time consuming and pricey.

Next, there's no need to go .338, a 7mm as mysticplayer adeptly suggested is a far sounder choice for your applications. The 7mm VLD's have similar ballistic efficiency, and the cartridges less recoil, and burn less powder. They also fit in a standard magnum action and feed without time consuming and possibly expensive modification, unlike the .338 Lapua. You will get to shoot more as everything's cheaper, there's no way you'll make it to becomming an adept long range shot on shooting 5 rounds every once in awhile when you can afford it.

Also note that while you wish to shoot very far with this rifle, the scopes you have mentioned will limit your range. You will need to go to the Mark 4 Long Range series of Leupolds ($1200-$2500) to get the elevation range required for very long shooting. Otherwise, your .338 will just have the reach of any other magnum really.

I had numerous plans and schemes when younger, still do. ;) I just had to decide when they were too much, I do believe this is a case. That said, you will likely build you rifle, and I look forward to hearing what you come up with, I think a Stevens 200 ($329) in 7mm Magnum shooting VLD's is a prime choice. The entire rifle will cost merely a portion of a good, long .338 barrel.
 
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Sorry Ardent, one of my personal down falls is that i lack logic. Everyone told me i didnt need a 400hp camaro...... guess what? lol. I dont mind recoil i actually enjoy getting hit with a big rifle, Ive put 50 rounds through an 8mm with a metal butplate that had a screw sticking out and i thought it was fun.... even though i ruined my new shirt with the blood stains from the screw lol. By "good/cheap" I mean something that can hit within 3moa of what im aiming at. Im not trying to build a bench rest rifle i just want something to shoot that i will enjoy shooting and im sorry but i have my heart set on a .338. I can continue learning to shoot better with one of my other rifles this is going to be my baby. Big Optics arent needed right away hell ill shoot with iron sights if i have to for a while.... hell i shoot with no sights..... or ill just take the leupold off my .308 lol until i can get some nice optics. Sorry for being so hard headed but thats just the way i am.

Thanks Steve
 
steveyb4342 said:
Sorry Ardent, one of my personal down falls is that i lack logic. Everyone told me i didnt need a 400hp camaro...... guess what? lol. I dont mind recoil i actually enjoy getting hit with a big rifle, Ive put 50 rounds through an 8mm with a metal butplate that had a screw sticking out and i thought it was fun.... even though i ruined my new shirt with the blood stains from the screw lol. By "good/cheap" I mean something that can hit within 3moa of what im aiming at. Im not trying to build a bench rest rifle i just want something to shoot that i will enjoy shooting and im sorry but i have my heart set on a .338. I can continue learning to shoot better with one of my other rifles this is going to be my baby. Big Optics arent needed right away hell ill shoot with iron sights if i have to for a while.... hell i shoot with no sights..... or ill just take the leupold off my .308 lol until i can get some nice optics. Sorry for being so hard headed but thats just the way i am.

Thanks Steve

While I respect your resolve, I'm at a loss for words. Why anyone would want a more expensive, less accurate rifle is beyond me, but it's not my rifle, right? :) And within 3MOA? In my opinion, and this is just my opinion, that is a absolute waste of expensive components. I'd expect 1/2 MOA from a Lapua, and that's straight 1/2 MOA not within 1/2...

Also realize .338 is just an arbitrary diameter, chosen by a bullet designer long ago. ANY diameter bullet can have similar qualities, the .338's only special due to the development of the projectiles for it (something both .308" and 7mm VLD's also enjoy), .338 itself has no magic or specialness associated with it.
 
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I am just trying to point out that im not looking for something that is on par with a bench gun.... so maybe i overreacted with the 3 MOA but you got my point lol. I'd love 1/2 MOA but im not gonna get my hopes up or expect it. Id still have a big smile if it was 1 or 1 1/2. See to me it's all about the fun of shooting and i dont have to have 1/2 MOA to have fun and if you do i feel sorry for you. The .338 may not have any specialness to you but it does to me and that is what i want in a rifle, although i would settle on a .338 RUM.
 
Go for it and build your dream action. You may want to look at the 50BMG project rifles. These seem to be designed for home machinists. Maybe the same platform can be shrunk for the Lapua.

Do look at the 338 RUM and the 338-300RUMs. Both will meet and exceed the Lapua. Brass is way cheaper too.

Now if the Lapua ever becomes a standardized NATO cartridge, actions and brass will become plentiful and I will be right in line to pick one up.

If you really want a 338 cannon, why not look at the 338-416 Rigby improved. Now that gets some very exciting numbers. Brass cost is similar. However, if you don't plan on using a muzzle brake, consider the 338Win mag to start. You may find that the recoil is more fun then you really want.

There is a shooter here that has a 340Wby Improved wildcat (think 338STW)that he is shooting some very impressive numbers with. I think HPBT is his moniker. There is a post further down this forum. Certainly worth a look.

Jerry
 
thanks mysticplayer, Yea i will take a look into the 50bmg's. Im just trying to make the decsion between building an action or buying a stevens. How hard is it going to be to make the stevens accept the .338? Can you provide some more info on the 338-416 rigby improved? K i will look for the 340 wildcat.

Thanks Steve

PS: after using the rifle for a little bit and i get some cash i will be investing in a muzzle break.
 
If you can build an action, making a muzzle brake will be a few hours work and about $2 worth of steel.

www.longrangehunting.com has lots of info on super big monster cartridges. In long barreled LR hunting rigs, shooters have pushed the 300gr MK to 3100/3200fps with sub MOA accuracy out to one mile. If that isn't big enough, the 338-408 Chey Tac will push the same bullet to 3350 to 3450fps accurately.

If you mean the 338 RUM, just get a Stevens in a magnum cartridge and you are good to go. Single feeding of course but you would need to anyways given the long length of the 300gr MK's. Savage did make some RUM actions so find these and they will feed from the mag. Of course, a Rem would be ready to go out of the box more or less.

If you want a Lapua in a savage, a few minutes on a lathe ought to do it.

I sense that you really have little experience with how a rifle action really works. You might want to put off building one until you know the commercial boring out of the box stuff inside and out.

Another choice if you really want a full length magnum to feed from a mag and want to try mucking about with truing up an action, get a howa vanguard in 300Wby. Now you can fit a RUM, 340Wby or improved versions into the mag.

Start doing some homework....
Jerry
 
If you are going with the Stevens, either a magnum action could be used, or a magnum bolthead installed. Use a cartridge that will fit the unaltered magnum boltface. The ones like RUMs will.
A while back, I discussed WSM diameter cartridges in the basic 110 action with Bob Greenleaf, who is responsible for the design of the post-Brewer Savage action. He was personally a bit uneasy about the case diameter, although allowed that if the threads were a really good fit in the receiver, it should be OK. This is likely why Savage went to the larger shank diameter. Its not just the diameter inside the receiver ring - the Savage barrel does not have a larger diameter shoulder in front of the receiver.
The primary reason to make an action is for the sake of doing it. Not something to undertake lightly. Two routes - copy an existing design, or start from scratch. Either would be challenging. The research you are going to have to do will be an educational experience, even if you never cut metal. Apart from the various .50 designs, I am unaware of any plans for a bolt action.
 
Maybe your first machining should be to file the "screws sticking out" out of the 8mm metal butt plate.LOL.

Then maybe you could recrown it, bed it, polish and hone the trigger learn to load accurate ammo for it and start shooting a sub MOA rifle.

I admire your desire to build up a dream rifle and wish you well but there is alot more fun in accurizing and learning to shoot that 8mm mauser (or another affordable attainable one) then there is in a 3-5 year money pit of a homemade action project.

As for recoil, it sucks and you will get over liking it. and when I say recoil I am not talking about what a 8x57 mauser with factory ammo and a heavy military stock does!

Get out and shoot lots, have fun and rememeber there are so many great rifles out there already that need a home and customizing.
 
It actually doesnt have a military stock anymore but either way im never touching that rifle again! I saw the swastikas engraved on the action and barrel and the notches in the original stock i freaked out, i wont even pick up the gun anymore.

Steve
 
cant that "half" is dads lol. were both in on it and he doesnt touch it and now i dont touch it itll prolly sit there and rust lol I would consider it but he wont allow it.

Steve
 
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