Building a reloading bench; where to spend

OP. The title of your post was a bit misleading, as in you were building a bench to put your stuff onto.

A sturdy rock solid bench is a blessing that a lot of hand loaders don't have or understand why it's important.

Go with the best equipment you can afford, or you will pay a lot more upgrading later.

The Forster is a great choice, but RCBS, Lyman, and a few others are OK as well. If I was only allowed one press, it would be the Forster, everything you need for putting the cartridge together can be done on this press, and it has a tube out the bottom, with a small container on the end to catch ejected spent primers, which can be a real pain to chase after when they pop out of the slot cut into most presses.

Many sing praises about "aluminum frame" presses, which is fine if you're only loading for one cartridge. Aluminum threads take a beating when changing out steel dies.

As you saw in Potashminer's post, you need lots of space. I have a 3.5 meter bench, that is a meter deep, and it's not big enough.

It's in my shop, so it gets to hold other things not related to hand loading, so it gets cluttered, just like Potashminer's bench.

You don't really need a large bench to reload, but you do need space for the bullets, primers, powder, and all of the other accessories we accumulate to "enhance" our end product.

If you're a neatness freak, be careful, because the accumulation can drive you insane.

I have lots of shelves and no more cabinets, other than two small steel cabinets for primers, cast lead bullets, odd ball stuff for antiques, and the other for lubricants, glue, blueing, acetone, etc.

At one time, I had four presses on my bench, two single stage types, a progressive for shot shells, and a turret press. I'm down to two, an RCBS Rockchucker and a Forster.

You also need space for a powder throw and scale. Balance beam scales are fine, but you might prefer a digital.

Make your bench high enough to be comfortable when you're standing, so you don't have to bend over to use the reloading tools. Most folks build them from existing tables or something they've picked up from CT. My bench is 40 inches high, and I should have made it a couple of inches higher. When you're making up a big batch of cartridges, a low bench will pay hell with your lower back after a few hours hunched over.
I like to sit on a stool that is high enough to easily get off, as you will be going back and forth after materials, or using different work stations on the bench.

RCBS makes up special plats and stands, so you can switch out tools, which is OK, but I prefer to have the tools permanently attached to the bench.

From your post, you have purchased "some" of the accessories you will need for reloading.

Don't forget, if you want to load consistent length cartridges, that you can easily check with your measuring instruments, you should get a "nut gauge," or an attachment to fit your vernier, or one of your micrometers to fit the same spot on your bullet ogive.

The nut guage is simple and has six holes drilled onto the hex flats for different calibers.
 
I’ve been loading with a Lee anniversary kit for close to 6 years. Trimmer you can remove the handle on and attach a drill to(rcbs) and a digital scale is about all I’ve upgraded. I too only load for rifle and weigh each charge with a manual trickler , I set the charger for just under desired load and trickle up. Also not in a rush like a lot of the guys here.
 
A couple suggestions for OP - most of the tooling that I bought over the years - the electronic stuff was new-from-a-store - RCBS ChargeMaster Lite, bore scope, chronograph. Most of the rest are mechanical things - I bought most of them as "previously owned". Is pretty hard to wear out some things - but you can run into "slopped out" press rams, or dulled cutters. Much stuff I bought thinking it was a good idea at the time - did not work out or I never used it much after the first time, or I got an "improvement" - often another brand or whatever. After some years in the game, you will probably try most tools, and can make up your own mind. Beware the reloader who claims to have 30 years experience, but buys primers 100 at a time or powder a pound at a time - or has never converted one brass case into another brass case. There is 30 years experience at using the same load in the same cartridge, and then there is 3 years experience reloading 23 different cartridges - not the same type of experience!

Perhaps from the "get go" - decide what you are trying to accomplish - to make something that will go "bang" or to win bench rest competitions - once you know where you want to get to, then tool up accordingly - there is different stuff for sale.
 
I disagree with using bushing neck-sizers, the logic doesn't make sense imo
but i'm not studied up on precision so what do i know 🤡
All brass neck Thickness is not the same ! can vary a lot between brands and sometimes even lots of the same brand so how can you use one die to size it properly ? NON bush dies are OK for std hunting guns and ammo BUT bushing dies are far better for Precision hunting and Target rifles jmho (y)
 
I’ve been loading with a Lee anniversary kit for close to 6 years. Trimmer you can remove the handle on and attach a drill to(rcbs) and a digital scale is about all I’ve upgraded. I too only load for rifle and weigh each charge with a manual trickler , I set the charger for just under desired load and trickle up. Also not in a rush like a lot of the guys here.
I’d have to quit my job and be a full time reloader if I was using a beam scale.
 
I'm not AI, but I've been accused more than once. As for the Prazipress, mainly from a youtube review (Ultimate Reloader), and various forums, mainly people asking the same question I did "is it worth it". And, yes, I asked the various chatbots if it was worth the money, and each one said yes, no and maybe in every response. My bees knee's comment is something that stuck with me from the Archie comics of my youth.
 
OP. The title of your post was a bit misleading, as in you were building a bench to put your stuff onto.

A sturdy rock solid bench is a blessing that a lot of hand loaders don't have or understand why it's important.
Apologies for the misleading title. I've read various posts mentioning the "reloading bench" as everything inclusive, including the bench. The actual bench will not be an issue. I'm a woodworker by trade and most of my benches could be used as nuclear fallout shelters. I typically bolt them directly to the concrete, very little movement.

I was planning on building a dedicated bench with a stack of drawers. I have a few huge slabs of 12/4 hard maple which should make for a nice bench. That should be enough storage for all the items you mentioned, and helps deal with my occasional bouts of neatness.

I've copied your post into my action-plan document, as a sort of check list.

Thank you very much.
 
I started in 1975...LEE hand press was the first. Then got a Lyman....then the RCBS..then the Lyman Turret press, finally settled on a Forster Co-Ax bout 2000 maybe ?..Haven't looked at another since.
They all did the job wonderfully over the years.. with a bit of due diligence and some fairly good precision tools.
Sky seems to be the limit nowadays for costs and new innovative gear when you watch Gavin, Erik and the YT guru's !
Best of luck with it...so many decisions...so many options and wayyyy to many prices !
 
Lee Bushing dies 🤷‍♂️ 😊
If he has a rifle with a chamber that warrants such a purchase, it's a great suggestion. If not, it's a waste of money.

IMHO, turning necks for thickness consistency is a waste of time and effort, in most field rifle applications.

Custom or tight chambers are a different ball game.

The very rare off the shelf rifle has a tight chamber, especially in the neck area that would warrant such dies. Most factory chambers are cut to accept factory loads, which may be anywhere within the SAMMI/CID spectrum.
 
Don't forget that all of it is for nought if you can't take accurate measurements of your headspace, bullet seating depth and case length. Some really good digital calipers are a must (Mitutoyo is arguably the gold standard, but you can find other good ones on Amazon) and a good set of headspace / datum gauges and bullet gauges are also really important. Personally, I like the Short Action Customs stuff (you can use the headspace gauge on their powder funnel - tight fit)! The Hornady bullet seating measurement tool and modified cases are very useful as well. You can get a little kit from Creedmoor Sports to make your own modified cases from previously-fired cases (just resize them without the neck bushing before drilling/tapping) which will fit your rifle like a glove! Enjoy falling down the rabbit hole!
 
What's your accuracy expectation for loaded round would impact the selection and budget a lot.
I would like them equivalent/better than PPU/Privi Match Rifle, 75gr 223. I have quite a bit of FH Munition house brand, and at 250 yards it isn't bad, but tend to get quite a few flyers. The PPU groups very predictably with virtually no fliers, MOA or better, which is my goal. Consumption rate: I go to the range once a week, maybe twice depending on what the family wants to do, and go through 50-75 rounds per session. If my wife and daughter join me with their 223s, 100-120 per session.
 
Just my perspective - if you intend to duplicate modern ammo - that is probably not going to happen - the commercial guys do not use the canister grade powders that you will get - they will blend up a "lot" to their specs - is probable that the primers, brass and bullets that you use may not be the same as they use. When I started, it was relatively easy to do better, accuracy wise, than factory rounds - but now-a-days, it can be a real challenge to just be "as good as" they are. Having said that, I recently acquired a Tikka T3X in 223 Rem that the previous owner had really good luck with factory Hornady Match rounds. So I bought 500 of those Match 75 gr. BTHP Hornady bullets to see if I could make some "as good as" Hornady can - that is yet to be seen - I have not loaded for that rifle yet.
 
I would like them equivalent/better than PPU/Privi Match Rifle, 75gr 223. I have quite a bit of FH Munition house brand, and at 250 yards it isn't bad, but tend to get quite a few flyers. The PPU groups very predictably with virtually no fliers, MOA or better, which is my goal. Consumption rate: I go to the range once a week, maybe twice depending on what the family wants to do, and go through 50-75 rounds per session. If my wife and daughter join me with their 223s, 100-120 per session.
Based on your needs... I would pass on the crazy expensive German press and buy two less expensive high quality products for now. I recommend cast iron O press for your precision stuff but you may need a little more speed if your loading for three... A good turret press can help if your dealing with dedicated dies for rifle type setups. You should check the comparisons but my humble recommendation is RCBS or Hornady.
The quick change dies are cool but a bit of a gimmick and you need to spend extra for each die. I do recommend the Hornady lock rings... full stop... I use them on all my dies regardless of brand or type. I suspect from your descriptions you will probably end up using some neck only dies at some point.. I also recommend getting an annealer of some type.. I'm sure someone will flame me for that but whatever... I also recommend using a separate neck mandrel.. I found this to have the most dramatic result in consistency next to powder measurement accuracy. Cheers and welcome to the obsession..
 
Don't forget that all of it is for nought if you can't take accurate measurements of your headspace, bullet seating depth and case length. Some really good digital calipers are a must (Mitutoyo is arguably the gold standard, but you can find other good ones on Amazon) and a good set of headspace / datum gauges and bullet gauges are also really important. Personally, I like the Short Action Customs stuff (you can use the headspace gauge on their powder funnel - tight fit)! The Hornady bullet seating measurement tool and modified cases are very useful as well. You can get a little kit from Creedmoor Sports to make your own modified cases from previously-fired cases (just resize them without the neck bushing before drilling/tapping) which will fit your rifle like a glove! Enjoy falling down the rabbit hole!
Fire form and neck sizing only will take care of any headspace issues, which would likely be minor at worst. Fire forming and neck sizing only will also extend case life.
 
OP - about your expectations - I have a couple rifles that will put 3 holes within one inch of each other at 100 yards off sandbags - my 338 Win Mag (a Winchester Model 70) will do that, and so will my 9.3x62 (a Husqvarna - probably a Model 649 on an FN Mauser 98 action). But I never could do so with my 7x57 (a Ruger #1) - best from that one that I ever got was about 1.25 inch for 5 shots at 100 yards - despite multiple load combinations attempted. I have taken many dozen deer with the Ruger and have yet to get anything with the 9.3x62. I did get two elk with the 338 Win Mag.
 
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