Building an AR15

Oil the crap out of the interior of the upper and I generally give them both a light wipe down with gun oil, but more for uniformity of color. If you leave it dry, the oil oozing out around pins looks too obvious.
 
Built the lower tonight, was ridiculously easy, except for dropping one of the detents and me searching my room for 20 minutes with a flashlight.
 
Barrel is in. Just wondering, how do I make sure my low profile gas block is aligned with the gas port on my barrel? Any tips/tricks?
 
It doesn't have to be perfect, the hole in the gas block is larger than the hole in the barrel. Just measure to a reference mark on the barrel to align laterally and do your best to "eyeball" it in terms of radial alignment.
 
jjr said:
Barrel is in. Just wondering, how do I make sure my low profile gas block is aligned with the gas port on my barrel? Any tips/tricks?
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I use a bit of chalk. Ensure you align the gas tube to ensure it doesn't bind with the gas key.

Also, re. Triggers - one of the single biggest improvements on an AR - regardless of barrel length. Get something of quality and ensure it is weighted properly for any gun games/ competitions you may want to participate in.

Full auto carriers contain a bit more mass, and delay the bolt from unlocking after firing ever so slightly. A properly running rifle doesn't need it but get it if it makes you feel good. If a gun needs one then there are other issues a play - and there is always the carrier weight system that can be added after the fact.
 
All done. I wanted to document the build, but unfortunately I had limited time on a borrowed vice in my brother's friend's workshop, so I had to do everything quickly. Here's some pics of the finished product:

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Might head out to the range tonight to get her sighted in. Also have a Vortex Sparc on the way, as well as a Magpul MS2 sling and another ASAP plate for my Troy MCS I have coming in.
 
Daniel Defense upper receiver
Daniel Defense Lite Rail 9.0
S&J Hardware 14.5" carbine barrel and low profile gas block
Spike's Tactical A2 flash hider
Blue Line lower receiver
RRA lower parts kit with National Match 2 stage trigger and Hogue rubber grip
Stag carbine buffer tube (mil spec)
Magpul ASAP sling plate
Magpul MBUS Gen 2 backup sights
Magpul CTR stock
LMT charging handle and F/A BCG

I think that's it. Feels nice, hopefully everything is put together decently :)
 
jjr said:
E-mailed DD and they said the Lite Rail 9.0 would cover it, so snagged that.

Just ordered a bunch of parts from Questar and a few from Arms East. I think all I'm missing now are tools (action vice block, wrenches, etc) and a flash hider and crush washer.

I hear the YHM Phantom is a really good one, but can't find that anywhere for sale. Anyone know where I can snag one?
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I got my YHM Phantom from Wolverine Supplies, give them a call. Nice people to deal with in anything AR related.
 
Just got back from the range. Only shot at 25 yards just to function test it, and took a few shots at 50 yards or so. Was pretty damn accurate, just had to adjust elevation, and I imagine that's due to shooting at such a short distance. I did notice however to rest my cheek on the stock and get a decent sight picture I had to tilt the rifle a little bit. My sights look like they're straight, so I'm not too sure. There wasn't anyone at the range to ask for advice or to take a look at it (I'm a newbie) so I guess it's a mystery. Still shot great though despite that, and was still accurate.

No failures at all. Functioned awesomely. I did notice a smell kind of like ammonia or something, not sure if it was from the ammo (cheap AE bulk) or maybe the grease from the barrel nut (lithium grease). I ran a bore snake through the barrel before heading out so I'm sure it wasn't anything in the barrel and I wasn't too concerned since everything else seemed peachy keen. Overall, I'm pretty stoked with the rifle. Cost me quite a bit more to build rather than buying a Norc, but I think the work I put into it will make me appreciate it more, plus I'm one of those people who need to mess around and mod everything I own, so this definitely suited me more. Can't wait for my Sparc to come in so I can try that out.
 
How difficult was the upper reciever to build? I've heard that getting the headspacing correct can be tricky without all of the correct tools and gauges.
 
Easy as pie. All I did was get an upper receiver vice block, slap that in a vice, and torque the barrel nut on. The rest I did at home. Not too sure about headspacing and using a gauge.... Not really anything to adjust on it. Pretty much just slap your barrel on, your gas block, rail, flash hider, and then throw in your BCG and charging handle and you're good to go. I just looked for Youtube videos and they made no mention of what you're talking about.
 
SVTong said:
How difficult was the upper reciever to build? I've heard that getting the headspacing correct can be tricky without all of the correct tools and gauges.
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If you are using a commercial finished barrel with barrel extension already installed, in all likelihood headspace will be within limits. Usually dimensional controls are pretty decent within the AR industry. Stacked tolerances might result in headspace being off, but I have not seen any reports of problems. It is not a bad idea to actually use gauges, just to be sure, if the assembly is one using random parts.
I have made up a number of AR barrel assemblies, doing my own contouring/threading/chambering/fitting of barrel extensions/gas blocks, etc. The process of chambering and setting headspace is little different than doing the same job on a bolt action rifle. The gap from barrel face to locking surfaces has to be correct, and the bolt must be able to rotate on a Go gauge, but not on a No Go.
 
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