Building on the 700 action

[mikeyb]

I have one that is finicky with ejection - seems like an extractor issue but I am loathe to swap out for a non-factory-style extractor (hate the idea of cutting up the bolt face, on the lookout for non-staked extractors in .308 bolt face).

The only thing I'd change would be adding an external bolt release. I'm just not a fan of having it inside the trigger guard. Lots of accessory triggers are available without the integral bolt release though.

I would have it trued to a new, quality barrel, have an external bolt release installed, and add a Triggertech Primary. Very straightforward - I feel any more labour than that and I would just pick up an aftermarket action on the same footprint that wouldn't need any additional machining.

 

[Joel]

I have one that is finicky with ejection - seems like an extractor issue but I am loathe to swap out for a non-factory-style extractor (hate the idea of cutting up the bolt face, on the lookout for non-staked extractors in .308 bolt face).

The only thing I'd change would be adding an external bolt release. I'm just not a fan of having it inside the trigger guard. Lots of accessory triggers are available without the integral bolt release though.

I would have it trued to a new, quality barrel, have an external bolt release installed, and add a Triggertech Primary. Very straightforward - I feel any more labour than that and I would just pick up an aftermarket action on the same footprint that wouldn't need any additional machining.

The Primary sounds like a good buy for sure! Know what you mean about the bolt release too. Not enough to do anything about it but not my fav. I can live with it though.

Is it feasible to just pop a new extractor in? Something that can be done at home?

Considering a complete, brand new rifle is available for the same price if not cheaper than an action, probably going to do my best to shoot a barrel out with a new trigger and stock and then do just as you say with the truing to a new, better barrel. Not convinced it won't be a real shooter with a non-tupperware stock and good trigger. But if it blows, sooner then lol

 

[pathfinder76]

I guess I mean more specifically how come...What deficiencies need correcting?

A straighter action, better extraction system, primary extraction is improved, integral or pinned lug, integral bolt handle, better bolt realeasr, one piece bolt body etc.

 

[Buckmastr]

I have one that is finicky with ejection - seems like an extractor issue but I am loathe to swap out for a non-factory-style extractor (hate the idea of cutting up the bolt face, on the lookout for non-staked extractors in .308 bolt face).

The only thing I'd change would be adding an external bolt release. I'm just not a fan of having it inside the trigger guard. Lots of accessory triggers are available without the integral bolt release though.

I would have it trued to a new, quality barrel, have an external bolt release installed, and add a Triggertech Primary. Very straightforward - I feel any more labour than that and I would just pick up an aftermarket action on the same footprint that wouldn't need any additional machining.

If it extracts then it’s likely an ejector problem which is easily fixed/cleaned…
Truing a 700 action makes little difference ime. It’s a waste of money. The bolt release is also just fine if you can keep it reasonably clean

 

[Joel]

If it extracts then it’s likely an ejector problem which is easily fixed/cleaned…
Truing a 700 action makes little difference ime. It’s a waste of money. The bolt release is also just fine if you can keep it reasonably clean

The new ones are supposed to be quite a bit straighter than the old ones...which still seem to shoot really well if allowed to

 

[guntech]

The cheapest of clones is a better mousetrap.

If it does not use the original 700 extractor system, the supposed clone is not a clone...

Installing a match grade barrel on a 700 with no truing done what ever shoots great... true it first and it shoots fantastic... but the original extractor system is what makes it the strongest, safest two lug bolt action ever made.

 

[pathfinder76]

If it does not use the original 700 extractor system, the supposed clone is not a clone...

Installing a match grade barrel on a 700 with no truing done what ever shoots great... true it first and it shoots fantastic... but the original extractor system is what makes it the strongest, safest two lug bolt action ever made.

Yes, the happy mistake that millions of shooters don’t need. Excellent.

 

[Joel]

If it does not use the original 700 extractor system, the supposed clone is not a clone...

Installing a match grade barrel on a 700 with no truing done what ever shoots great... true it first and it shoots fantastic... but the original extractor system is what makes it the strongest, safest two lug bolt action ever made.

The failures to extract seem rare in the first place and easily replaced with another extractor if they happen. Mind you, I have barely any experience with a 700...But doesn't seem like something that needs swapping out all that much.

 

[Buckmastr]

The new ones are supposed to be quite a bit straighter than the old ones...which still seem to shoot really well if allowed to

The barrel makes the gun shoot good groups. The trigger helps the shooter shoot to the guns potential. Truing the action is so far down the list of benefits that for me, it has dropped completely off.

 

[Joel]

The barrel makes the gun shoot good groups. The trigger helps the shooter shoot to the guns potential. Truing the action is so far down the list of benefits that for me, it has dropped completely off.

The barrel has to be on there straight to do that. Otherwise you're stuck doing stuff like loading to touch the lands to have some sort of self-centering effect of the round to make up for deficiencies in the receiver/bolt/barrel alignment. A nice barrel has a nice, straight chamber and a bore concentric to it. Having a receiver and bolt NOT concentric to that can only hurt.


Quite aware of the role of the trigger and that it doesn't accurize a rifle

 

[Buckmastr]

Truing the action from my experience is a 200$ add on that involves squaring the lugs and bolt face. Screwing a barrel on straight with a straight chamber can be performed without the extra cost of truing.

 

[mikeyb]

If it extracts then it’s likely an ejector problem which is easily fixed/cleaned…
Truing a 700 action makes little difference ime. It’s a waste of money. The bolt release is also just fine if you can keep it reasonably clean

I did pull the bolt apart and remove the ejector and spring, all clean, and I cleaned out the ejector hole in case there were any burrs or anything binding in there. The strange part is it ejects loaded ammo fine - only fired brass doesn't get ejected clear of the action. Doesn't hit the scope or anything, just falls back into place. I haven't found the time to investigate much further but *eventually* I will - in typical Rem fashion it'll put 3 cheap Federal blue-box 100gr into .8" (this is my usual Remington experience, they've always shot well even if the ones I've owned are rough around the edges).

I do have another in .223 so I can't steal the extractor l, but maybe I'll pull it's ejector plunger and spring and try it out.

 

[Joel]

Truing the action from my experience is a 200$ add on that involves squaring the lugs and bolt face. Screwing a barrel on straight with a straight chamber can be performed without the extra cost of truing.

If the receiver is square. Otherwise not sure how that happens exactly.

Although at least having appropriate sized threads on the barrel helps. The Remingtons I saw disassembled circa 2010 all had loctite on the threads to make up for that poor fit. When cutting chambers on a lathe, the feeling of screwing the action onto those barrels vs the factory barrel were night and day different.

If those threads inside the receiver are straight enough, if the lugs are bearing squarely, and I'm not so worried about the face or bolt face...yeah you'll be shooting well. If they ain't, the results of the expensive barrel won't be that much better than the factory barrel.

The chamber with a shorter freebore than a mile long, a tighter more concentric bore and bore/chamber relationship and a better thread to receiver fit definitely help! But they count on a receiver being square enough to a degree. Sounds like most of em are...thats great.

 

[Grizzlypeg]

I bought a used, trued 308 action, a used AICS chassis, used fiberglass hunting stock, used target trigger, used scope base, used aics mags, used action wrench and have chambered 3 different barrels for it. Two in 308 (light and heavy barrel) and one super heavy barrel in 223. It was a great learning experience, as there is plentiful information, with many successful variations, on how to chamber a 700 action. All the barrels shoot great, but the fast twist 223 is the best at shorter distances. I don't regret the 700 action as it was so easy to get components for. Never had a problem with the stock extractor, and I shoot some max pressure loads with the 308 palma barrel.

 

[Joel]

Awesome, Grizzlypeg! how were you chambering yours?

Only ever done one barrel here, and I did it by machining the first two inches of muzzle end into parallel, putting that in a 4 jaw, and using a steady rest on the chamber end.

Course we were still doing it wrong in the sense that we dialed in concentricity on the exterior surface of the barrel and not the bore itself using a piloted rod...but hey lol. It was a start

 

[Grizzlypeg]

I did the first two between centres (following the John Hinnant book - that has you cutting the tenon and threads with the barrel supported by the bore on a centre, and then switching to a steady rest for the chambering), and the last one through the chuck, using a rod and then an indicator in the bore. It took me quite some time as a beginner to align to the bore using the through the chuck method, but I think I will continue to do it that way. Maybe just coincidence, but that barrel shot best.

 

[Joel]

Cool! Do you have a spider or something similar on the other side of the head supporting the rest of the barrel when you're chambering through the chuck?

 

[Grizzlypeg]

Cool! Do you have a spider or something similar on the other side of the head supporting the rest of the barrel when you're chambering through the chuck?

Yes, a built in spider with 4 brass tipped screws. I also use 4 short brass rods bits between the chuck and barrel to allow it to pivot on the jaw. Otherwise, you are probably just bending the barrel if it sits on a flat jaw. Some guys use a loop of large diameter copper wire, but I couldn't find any. I'm not expert, and no one to learn chambering from. I just follow the books or instructions methodically. I write everything out, step by step and check them off as I go through the process. I'm slow a hell. When I take the measurements of the action, I go over the math multiple times to make sure I'm not making a mistake in the clearances. I keep the notes from each past project, and compare them to the next one, just to make sure I haven't reversed something. So far, no screw ups.

The reason I would encourage a Rem 700 style action is because of the wealth of resources of knowledge on the subject, and easy access to parts for your build. Also, the machining is really straightforward. Maybe they all are? Not sure. But all the cuts are capable of being done with basic lathe knowledge and tools.

 

[Slimbo]

My favourite rifle is the Remington 700. The classic or bdl stock is hard to beat but a long list of custom stocks also work well. Quick lock time. Made even quicker with a stronger striker spring. A great trigger. A trigger tech is also super. Stainless, blued or matte. Easily bedded. Gunsmith familiarity. Plentiful. Reasonably priced. Great looking. There is nothing better.

There is nothing better before you replace half of it? Or after?

 

[Buckmastr]

No need to replace parts. But if you want to it’s relatively cheap and easy. Depends what model you start with of course.