Bull Barrel fire rate

Evil_Dark

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Hi all, I will have my first rifle with a bull barrel. I will have to find my perfect load for it, and I wonder what is your normal fire rate, I mean how long do you wait between your shots. I'm used to fire with normal slim barrels, and if I shoot too quicly between shots, the barrel get too warm and it shift my POI.

What would be good for my new bull barrel? It will be chambered in .308 (Savage 10TR)

Thanks!

Evil Dark
 
Is there any particular reason not to just shoot using 10 or 15 seconds to get lined up again between shots... stopping at 10 for 5 or 10 minutes...?
 
It depends on the day, wind and other factors. I have a fluted stainless bull barrel that I shoot moderate rounds in that doesn't get that hot from radiant heat (sun) and cools easily with any cool wind. I still don't try to push it over 5 shots in 2 minutes... but that's just me, my opinion, and someone else may come say that's way too fast or I could easily go faster.
 
I shoot 10 round strings in under 1 min, no poi shift at 100 or 300 yds with a med palma barrel.
 
POI shift can be caused by a lot of variables. While it is true you may see some shift with a smaller contour barrel, like your average hunting rifle, but there can be other factors as well. Lack of a proper mate between the barrel/action and the stock, improper torque of the action screws, improper fitting or worn recoil lug mating surface or gaps/flexing, improper ring mount torque, ring torque, and we havent even talked about ammunition variables.

If you sit down to shoot a string, even a light countour hunting barrel of decent qualitity (in a suitable platform) will pump out 5 back to back shots without much of a POI change, in under a minute. Beyond that, it will be difficult as the heat will slowly start to make changes. You may get lucky and get 7-10 shot string, but that will depend on the how hot the load you are shooting. Having a heavier contour will allow you more shooting with less down time, so shooting a 10 or 15 shot string now becomes easily feasible, as the larger barrel will act as a larger heat sink. All that being said, a heavy contour barrel installed improperly or on a flimsy stock, you'll see the same issues youve already experienced.

Hope that helps a little.
 
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300 m or less it's 1 shot every 1.5 seconds for me. 2 seconds out to 600 m, and anything past that I take my sweet time.
 
I;ve been waiting about 5-15 minutes between 5 rnd groups, usually closer to 10 minutes.
With my first rifle, I'm pretty sure I burned the barrel prematurely I was doing like 5 round groups every 2-3 minutes for like 100-150 rounds.
Went from like 1/2-3/4 MOA all day long, to like 3/4-1.5 moa. But I had also shot about 2000 rounds (hotish 308win), so with it being a factory barrel I'm not 100% certain if what I did in the beginning ruined it prematurely.

So now I shoot a group, check it out, dry fire a bunch, get up and walk around a bit, then re-line up myself with my rifle and dry fire a lot more and checking natural point of aim. I went from shooting 100 rounds a trip to maybe 50, I rather not prematurely burn out a 1600$ barrel!
 
So now I shoot a group, check it out, dry fire a bunch, get up and walk around a bit, then re-line up myself with my rifle and dry fire a lot more and checking natural point of aim. I went from shooting 100 rounds a trip to maybe 50, I rather not prematurely burn out a 1600$ barrel!

Do you use a blank/dummy cartridge to dry fire, or you just dry fire with no rounds?

Evil_Dark
 
Nothing used to use snap caps, but they stopped extracting. I guess my extractor chewed up the aluminum rim? So now just empty chamber. I got my new rifle last Thursday, I've only fired 60 shots but probably dry fired 800 times over the week
 
Nothing used to use snap caps, but they stopped extracting. I guess my extractor chewed up the aluminum rim? So now just empty chamber. I got my new rifle last Thursday, I've only fired 60 shots but probably dry fired 800 times over the week
Will a dummy round would do the job? A re-sized brass with a bullet seated, without powder and already fired primer? I've heard that dry-firing may break the firing pin in some time... Don't know if it is trus, never happened to me yet.

Evil_Dark
 
From my limited experience, only certain pistols and rimfire guns shouldn't be dry fired without snap caps. You aren't impacting the chamber like on a rimfire with the firing pin. You should be OK to dry fire without anything in the chamber. Obviously if you want to practice racking the bolt and ejecting rounds then dummy rounds are the way to go. Instead of leaving the primer in, remove it and add silicone to the pocket.
 
How do you manage to get a barrel priced that high?

In 50 years I have not seen a modern center fire rifle harmed by dry firing...

1200$ USD is what a Desert tech barrel costs. The barrel extension alone is 250$ USD, add a high end blank and Smith fees its up there.
 
Dennis,
I once dry fired a BSA CF2 and the firing pin tip actually came right out the barrel and pinged off the wall. That is the only one I have seen and also consider it rare. Nonetheless, I use an empty case with a nylon insert in place of the primer for practice.
 
Dennis,
I once dry fired a BSA CF2 and the firing pin tip actually came right out the barrel and pinged off the wall. That is the only one I have seen and also consider it rare. Nonetheless, I use an empty case with a nylon insert in place of the primer for practice.

I guess that BSA doesn't fall into the realm of modern... lol. I don't know how many times I have dry fired my 700's.
 
It seems like only yeaterday! I think the 700 is particularily immune to damage from dry-firing. Same with the Ruger. I think my old Model 70's are slightly less so and that is why I use the dummy with them. With 1600 dollar barrels and dollar-a-piece bullets, dry firing will become about all I can do!
 
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