Bullet Casting Advice?

Dick357mag

Dick357mag

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Would like to start running lead cast bullets through an old 38-55 Winchester, but have never cast bullets. I have done some extensive reloading, but never took the plunge into forming my own slugs.
Anyone have any advice as to molds, bullet lube systems, bullet hardness etc.?
Is there a company that has a simple all in one kit or system of casting bullets?
 
Wheel weights with a bit of solder make fine cast bullets. Use of a gas check is recommended for cast bullets to avoid lead fouling. Without gas checks, the heat from the combustion of the powder melts the rear end of the bullet leaving molten lead in your barrel. This is more prevalent when loading full/magnum loads. Light target loads are less of a problem. Make sure you have adequate ventillation when you are melting lead so as to avoid lead poisoning.
 
Something that would be quite a help to you is the Lyman 3rd edition Cast Bullet Handbook, not only as a reference for casting but also the reload info. One of my favorites.
 
Casting ones own bullets can be a rewarding hobby and can save you money after the initial expenditure on equip. just like reloading. Just like reloading, you get what you pay for......Lee products can be bought cheap but moulds need to be babied or they fall apart. Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, make good quality equip....you will need a lead pot(preferably Elec. 20# cap.), Bullet sizer/lubricator, bullet mould/s, sizing dies(to fit lube/sizer), ladle, lubricant, lead and tin(for 38/55 you are best to use soft(30-1) bullets), for each diff. cal you will need a new mould and new sizer die....some of this is just my opinion based on many years of casting and being in the casting business, we have an inventory of over 100 moulds, thirty diff. sizers, 3 diff. sizers,etc. We have moulds by LBT,Lyman. Saeco, RCBS, Nei, Hoch, Paul Jones, Hensley & Gibbs, Pioneer, D. Eagan, etc.....When we are not casting bullets, we are testing them.....so we know what works and what doesn't.....my only other advice is to only buy moulds for gas checks if you want the bullets to go higher than 1800fps, as gas checks add to the cost and the labour, also find someone in your area who will let you sit in on a casting/sizing/lubing session before you buy anything!!
 
Slugging

For a 38-55 it is always well advised to slug your bore, many rifles presenting some variation from the standard.
Then cast your bullets and lube-size them about one to two thousands larger than your rifle's bore. Avoid pushing them above 1900 fps and you'll never have problems with leading.
If hunting is an option, a good gas-checked flat-nose design can do a lot. You can size the bullets while putting gas checks on them in a Lee sizer, using just a trace of Lee Liquid Alox then heat-treat and quench them.
After that, lube them in a lube press with a same diameter die to avoid disturbing the hardening.
These hardened and gas-checked bullets can be driven much higher and will bring home the meat.
Good luck!
PP.:)
 
Thanks Gentlemen!
Bit more to the process than I thought. Guess I better start with the book and go from there.
Thankfully I haven't even bought a mold yet.
Does anyone sell gas checked 38-55 cast bullets?
I don't want to run jacketed bullets through this old hex barrel. Was told they are hard on the softer barrels.
 
I GC 30-30 cause I run 'em fast, but that big old 38-55 slug :rolleyes: Sizing is the key to accuracy. And good lube. I tumble lube(alox) to make sizing easy. Then use stick lube(alox) to fill the grooves before loading. Velocity , a guess 1600 fps.:)
 
Dick357mag said:
Thanks Gentlemen!
Bit more to the process than I thought. Guess I better start with the book and go from there.
Thankfully I haven't even bought a mold yet.
Does anyone sell gas checked 38-55 cast bullets?
I don't want to run jacketed bullets through this old hex barrel. Was told they are hard on the softer barrels.
Click to expand...

I'll send you a PM concerning contact info for my source of supply.:)
 
To start with, you don't have to have all the bells and whistles to do a very credible job of casting and reloading lead bullets. You need a bullet mold at least groove diameter for your barrel, and up to 4 thou bigger won't hurt especially if you size. I suspect you can do most things the 38 - 55 was meant to do with an alloy of 20:1 lead & tin - if you gas check I'd be pretty sure of it.
As well as the other molds listed by others, I suggest you have a look at Cast Bullet Engineering's line from Australia - not real cheap, but very good and with the currency conversion a pretty good deal.
You can use a Lee bullet sizer - if they don't list one your size they'll make you one at reasonable cost(+/- $25 US). These size nose first and give you better odds of concentricity than most of the expensive lubrisizers. Lee will send you bullet lube with the sizer which works ok but leaves your ammo sticky. A better solution is to hand lube with something like Canadian Tire moly grease - seat your bullet to the first band, apply the grease, seat to finished depth, wipe clean.
You can melt lead in a cheap stainless steel saucepan over an electric or propane or other heat source, and flux with vegetable oil. You need a bullet casting dipper either Lyman or RCBS make them.
That and an appropriate reloading manual that covers the process. I like the Lyman manual.
Hope this helps.
 
MT Chambers makes 4 designs for the 38/55 including a paper patch bullet, Hudson target bullet, 250 gr. std, and 335 gr. spitzer.
 
You will want your mold size at least 1/1000 larger than your bore for best accuracy using cast boolits. Before embarking read Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook twice!

A good starter set:

Lee 10# production pot
Lee Mold 379-250-RF
Lee Sizer (1/1000th over bore diameter)
Lee Delux Die Set
Liquid Alox - Note I tried some of this in the cold weather and it becomes to hard. Had .303 boolits tumbling at 50 yards. Tested same boolits lubed with Felix Lube and tumbling stopped. Others report the same experience when using Lee's Liquid Allox in cold tempratures.

Smelt your wheelweights and cast your boolits outside. You can use a Coleman Camp Stove as a heat source if you have one or get a propane burner. Cast iron pot that holds about 10lbs of WW is a good start. Flux your metal with ordinary candle wax. Works for me. Use a slotted spoon to pick out the metal clips and a regular spoon to remove debris after fluxing.

Don't use your Production Pot to smelt your wheelweights. You will have a mess on your hands in a hurray.

Once you get the essentials you can build and improve your equipment as funds and desire arises.

Take Care

Bob
 
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