Bullet casting

Boer seun

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Okay gents
I have access to an endless supplie of tire-weights. and it won't cost me a dime.
Now I have been toying with the idea of casting bullets.
I don't know squat about casting so. What equipment do i need?
Is it worth it? (Will be casting for 30/06, 270, 280, 7x57, 303, 30/30 9mm and 45ACP.)
How much can i expect to pay for equipment and what does the Process involve?
I know you have to mix the lead with other metals and Dogleg talked about using solder, but what els do I need?
What other than lead-poisoning do I have to be carefull for etc.
Your responses will be truly appreciated
Cheers
Boer
 
You need bullet molds, at least one for each calibre, except that if you choose your .30 or .303 mold carefully, one mold may work for both. .280 and 7mm can use the same mold. Lee's 303 mold will probably work for 30 - 06 and 30 - 30 sized either .309 or.311. The 303 will need to be sized larger.

You need a heat source - propane or electric hot plate, kitchen range, or bullet casting pot, casting ladle from Lyman or RCBS, and probably gas checks for the rifle calibres. I use a small stainless steel saucepan for a melting pot.
You can get molds for all except .270 made by Lee, and powder I'd suggest from Higginson Powder 613 - 632 -9300, most of the rest from Wholesale Sports in Saskatoon. There will be some overlap there.

You will need to add a small amount of tin to your wheel weights, about 1 to 2% to make the the mold fill out better. Some use straight wheelweight, but you really have to cast hot to get consistent bullets.

You need bullet lubricant and a bullet sizer for each calibre. Lee makes very good bullet sizers far cheaper than the lubrisizers made by others. Lee supplies lubrcant with their sizers, and you can get moly grease from Canadian Tire.

Certainly not least, you need an appropriate reloading manual - I suggest Lyman for a start, as they have a cast bullet section.

Be aware that your first casting session with each mold will be the worst because you need to get rid of all traces of oil from the mold cavity.

As long as you watch out for lead dust and wash your hands after casting, lead poisoning is not much of a hazard - it takes far higher temperature to vaporize lead than you will ever need for casting.

Be careful not to mix molten lead and water - you can get a dandy explosion and shower of hot lead.

That's the basic stuff you need, your molds come with instructions.
Hope this helps, If you need more details I or others will be glad to help.
 
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Before you start out I would suggest you study the loads/ballistics for cast bullets in the calibers you mention as cast bullets are limited(vel.) and more effective in larger cals....I don't mean to imply that casting is not fun and cost saving as that is all I use in my guns. Proper hardcast bullets with gas checks can be accurately driven to 2500fps. but best accuracy is usually 1500-2000fps. if this suits your shooting style, go nuts.
 
The first thing you might do is get hold of a copy of Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook. The book is an excellent reference manual and will walk you through the steps.

For smelting down your wW you can use a Coleman Stove. Get hold of a Cast iron pot. Some guys use Turkey friers. Best this all be done outdoors I might add.

Once melted down take a slotted spoon and remove the clips and gunk best you can. I use candle wax to flux the metal. Once the resulting debris is removed you cna use an old muffin tin to make ingots.

Join us in the Cast Boolit Forum. There is an enormous amount of information there and all of us started out once so guys will be happy to answer your questions.

Take Care

Bob
 
Gas check is a copper disk or cup that crimps to the base of the cast bullets that have a gas check grove. The mould that has the gas check option will mention or indicate it with the letters GC.

I do a little casting, and I just bought the dipper, and some lee moulds(pluss lee sizers and lube). I cast from an open iron pot on a small electric burner... works ok for the little I need. Melting the wheel weights into pure lead is the biggest pita. Once you got the pure lead, its not bad.
 
Whatever you do, don't use an aluminum pot :eek:
Seems obvious now, but there is an apartment in Vancouver which probably still has a stove which is ever so slightly heavier in one corner than the others as a result of me doing just that many years ago. (Ah, the untrammelled enthusiasm of youth!)

If I may gently disagree with "grouch", I would suggest using a range hood or other ventilation above the melting area. No point taking unnecessary chances. Depending what you use as a casting flux, you will likely generate a little smoke. Apparently Marvelux (available from Brownell's) is excellent.

canuck44 said:
Best this all be done outdoors I might add.
In Saskatchewan in the winter? He'll need an extra burner to keep the quenching pot from freezing up! (Or maybe MT Chambers' secret is "ice quenching", Ben? :p)

:) Stuart
 
Right now I'm making lead shot...#8, but I cast in the basement with an exhaust fan vented outdoors, even if you wanted to cast outside in cold weather it would make it tough to keep everything(mould, pot,etc.) hot enough...no I cast in the bsmt. all winter and can nick out to back porch and test my loads on my 800yd. range and get back in the house before I freeze my %&^# off!
 
Boer...where are you in sask? If possible you could come over and join in a casting session, some of the operations are much harder to explain or read about...much easier if you see it all working, including steel and alum. moulds, at work, sizers, shotmaking, heat treating, alloying, etc.
 
I'll tell you the same thing here I'll tell you at the boolits sight. You can play with cast in the small stuff but its a bit dissapointing until you get the bore contact of at least 35 cal. The surface area,twists etc just wont give you much pleasure in cals under 35. Ecspecially if your hunting with em. I'll say this if you do go with it,ecspecially those lighter cals, DO NOT go cheap on molds. By quality. You cannot spin an out of balance bullet out of a poor quality mold like lee worth beans
 
Of the cartridges you mentioned, the 30-30, and the 303, will likely be most satisfactory for you, as they can be loaded to full power with gas checks. {Gas checks are small copper cups that fit on the base of each bullet. There are two types, slip on, and crimp on. The crimp on type is what I use. They are crimped during the sizing proccess.
I suggest you start with the 30-30.
If you've ever had troubles with bullets being pushed back in a tube mag, the cast bullet will be a big plus for you.
 
I would suggest you get hold of some cast bullets and experiment with them for accuracy etc. Getting to the point where you get good results with cast bullets can be very frustrating. The practical applications of shooting cast bullets are limited. Been there, done that. In many cases you can buy bulk jacketed bullets for less than cast is going to cost you after set-up cost. This applies to the calibers you mentioned, things may change when you shoot big-bore obsolete calibers.
 
Boer seun said:
I don't know squat about casting so. What equipment do i need?
Well, you can go as cheap as a Lee furnace, a second hand cast dutch oven, etc. Will give you shooters and very little investment. For myself, I would spend the money on higher end equipment - easier to get satisfactory results and significant reduction in the annoyance factor.

You need to melt lead. If you have unlimited access to wheelweights, I would strongly suggest you have two lead pots. If there's a local pulp mill or similar source of stainless steel pipe, have somebody fab up a "rough pot" for you that will hold several hundred pounds at a time. This allows you to keep dirty alloy out of your casting pot, and by doing several hundred pounds at a time, your resulting ingots of prepared bullet alloy will be more consistent over time. I have such a pot and I heat it with a bigass propane torch.

Then you need your production pot. I prefer an RCBS 20 lb bottom pour, but those who can't learn how to get consistent bullets out of bottom pour pots tend to prefer ladle casting. If you're going to ladle cast, get a Rowell ladle - the 1 lb ones are great. Never put dirty/uncleaned alloy in your production pot, unless you like plugged up orifices and crap in your bullets. Anything smaller than a 20 lb pot and you'll be finding yourself filling the pot all the time - annoying.

You need bullet moulds. After years of casting, I have decided that custom moulds is the only way to go for success. The catch to that is you need enough time in the hobby to know what to specify in a custom mould. If I was to concentrate my spending anywhere, I would do it on the moulds. Lee moulds are attractively inexpensive, and are all you need for "shooters"; you can get really good results from them as well, but the catch is you will likely need a fair bit of experience before you know all the little tricks to try. Veral Smith and Montain Mould's stuff is quite good. You are equally as likely to have success with Saeco, RCBS, or Lyman moulds when considering the more common brands - success will depend on the relationship between the rifle's chamber and ball seat, bore, bullet design, and bullet fit to chamber and ball seat (not to mention alloy hardness versus load, of course). How's that for confusing?

So, I would start with the well known off the shelf stuff. Look around and start out with the designs that have earned themselves a good reputation in your caliber of interest. Lyman 314299 is a very popular bullet in the .303 British, for example, while Saeco #311 is well thought of in the .30 calibers.

Unless you are going to stick with tumble lubing and shooting as cast bullets, you are going to need a lubricator/sizer. I prefer the Saeco, but the more common Lyman and RCBS lubrisizers have interchangeable sizing dies and nose punches (I think).
http://www.redding-reloading.com/pages/lubrisizer.html

Lee has a very inexpensive sizing system. If you're thinking mostly "shooters", this will probably do just fine.

Then there's the odds and sods. You need skimmers to take the crap off the top of the melt, fluxes (for rough stuff I use any source of wax, for production I use carnuba wax), and various lubes to fit your current bullet of choice. Lyman M dies make for a better seated round in rifles, and I use an LBT hardness tester quite a bit

Is it worth it? (Will be casting for 30/06, 270, 280, 7x57, 303, 30/30 9mm and 45ACP.)
Worth it for what? If it's about cheap shooting, the answer is probably not - particularly for handguns. To expand your shooting hobby, certainly. If the idea of producing cast bullet loads that perform nearly as well as jacketed rounds appeals to you, it can be worth it indeed. And taking a nice game animal with a round you not only reloaded, but with a bullet you cast yourself, certainly has a nice touch to it. As does shooting tight groups with respectable velocities.

For myself, I draw the line at casting for handguns, at least for those I shoot quite a bit. I refuse to cast in those quantities, so restrict myself to casting just for the oddball calibers that I don't shoot much like .455 Webley and .32 ACP. The bulk commercially swaged/cast bullets are hard to improve on when you compare whatever improvement you get over the amount of time you would spend casting those 10,000 rounds/year or so that you use.

How much can i expect to pay for equipment
By scrounging your casting pot from old cast iron pots, you could probably start casting for your first caliber with under $100 invested if you stuck with Lee equipment. This is probably a more representative pricing for a serious caster, although prices are just ballpark figures:
Lead pot: $300
Sizer: $175
Mould: $60
Sizer: $25
Top Punch $20

Again, those are VERY general prices.

I know you have to mix the lead with other metals and Dogleg talked about using solder
If you have wheelweight, you don't need to mix any other metal. There is enough tin and arsenic in wheelweight to cast well and heat treat your bullets as hard as you want.

Anyways, that's enough for now.
 
Boer...where are you in sask? If possible you could come over and join in a casting session, some of the operations are much harder to explain or read about...much easier if you see it all working, including steel and alum. moulds, at work, sizers, shotmaking, heat treating, alloying, etc.
I am in Stoon so if you are in the area to show me the ropes some time that would be great
 
Will be doing my pre-employment in PA but have no Idea when (Siast being over booked and all) will let you know when I get there.
Thanks
 
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