I should add - never try to use a wood dowel against the tip of a bullet
In the right cases sectioned straight grain hardwood dowels that match the bore diameter work great in pushing a bullet from behind.
Brass rod also works if you're careful.
Bullet jammed in barrel
- Thread starter GunsNotPuns
- Start date
I should add - never try to use a wood dowel against the tip of a bullet
In the right cases sectioned straight grain hardwood dowels that match the bore diameter work great in pushing a bullet from behind.
Brass rod also works if you're careful.
GunsNotPuns
CGN frequent flyer
If the primer went off it was the quietest ignition in the history of firearms, as in completely silent.
I haven't had time to deal with it. That's tomorrow's project. I'll update the thread with the results, good, bad or ugly.
ipscgraz
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Please DO NOT do this. You will produce pressure with the barrel obstructed. This will produce much higher pressures than with the bullet starting in or at the case mouth. If you really want to try this, video it.
When I had my business, it was not unusual to have someone bring a rifle in with a blockage in the barrel.
The worst ones were those where the problem was compounded by botched attempts to remove the blockage with improvised tools.
Occasionally, the barrel was ruined.
Usually the owner was evasive about what he had done to try to clear the bore. Or embarrassed.
A straight, strong, smooth rod will get that bullet out.
Want a complicated method that will also remove it? Use a centered drill to make a hole in the base of the bullet, then screw a rod into the bullet, and slip hammer it out.
The worst ones were those where the problem was compounded by botched attempts to remove the blockage with improvised tools.
Occasionally, the barrel was ruined.
Usually the owner was evasive about what he had done to try to clear the bore. Or embarrassed.
A straight, strong, smooth rod will get that bullet out.
Want a complicated method that will also remove it? Use a centered drill to make a hole in the base of the bullet, then screw a rod into the bullet, and slip hammer it out.
Yes. Done this many times, although I use about 3/4 of the original charge and a dab of cotton in the neck to keep the powder in.
This is much safer than pounding on the bullet, which can gouge the barrel.
With a bullet stuck in a barrel there are waaay too many variables and unknowns for this to be a good idea. I cannot imagine how this could be considered "much safer" than tapping the bullet out with a properly sized rod. I would rather take the minimal risk of damaging the barrel with the rod than risk the potential injury of blowing up the gun.
Breech seating a bullet, then loading a charged case behind it is a long established practice.
I have shot out a bullet that was stuck in the leade - left there because the overall length was excessive. At the range, no clearing rod.
Trying to shoot out bore obstructions can be a really bad idea. But a seated bullet right at the front of the chamber isn't in the same category as a broken off pull through, or a bullet half way down the barrel.
I have shot out a bullet that was stuck in the leade - left there because the overall length was excessive. At the range, no clearing rod.
Trying to shoot out bore obstructions can be a really bad idea. But a seated bullet right at the front of the chamber isn't in the same category as a broken off pull through, or a bullet half way down the barrel.
gewehr76
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
As they say education is a horse, but experience is the jockey.
notsorichguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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^^ this^^
hand load right? Well before you try pushing it out the muzzle end, are you sure it was the correct caliber projectile?? Trying to pound/shoot/etc a projectile out the rest of your barrel length may prove difficult. My suggestion is to remove it back out the way it went in. Any metal supply will have steel "centreless round ground drill rod" that you can get in a multitude of sizes. Get one that is just under the bore diameter. Insert down the muzzle, then tap it out with a hammer. Don't use a rubber mallet, it will just bounce. Pack the breach with a rag to catch everything, and drive it back out. One or two taps and your all set. You don't need brass, you are not ramming this rod in and out of the bore, just using it as a long punch. Depending on the bore of your rifle, you may get away with a 5/16" rod, but more than likely will need a 7mm one.
If you are using spitzer rounds and are concerned about the projectile "tipping" in the bore and perhaps jambing then get a sabot plug machined. I've done this here in my shop for a few people already with this problem but a bullet further down the bore. The "sabot" is just a 2" long slug that is machined slightly smaller than the bore, and counterbored for the projectile tip to fit into it. The sabot is then used to tap the projectile out by the method above. The counterbore in the sabot prevents the projectile from tipping and jambing in the bore. Should you decide you need one and cant source locally, contact me and I can machine it for you and mail it out.
If you are using spitzer rounds and are concerned about the projectile "tipping" in the bore and perhaps jambing then get a sabot plug machined. I've done this here in my shop for a few people already with this problem but a bullet further down the bore. The "sabot" is just a 2" long slug that is machined slightly smaller than the bore, and counterbored for the projectile tip to fit into it. The sabot is then used to tap the projectile out by the method above. The counterbore in the sabot prevents the projectile from tipping and jambing in the bore. Should you decide you need one and cant source locally, contact me and I can machine it for you and mail it out.
- Location
- Manitoulin Island
As he says it is a Lee Enfield .303 he will need a 7mm rod, a 5/16' won't fit through the bore. Probably could get away with a 1/4' if 7mm not readily available. He could centre-drill the end of the drill rod that contacts the bullet, but doubt this is necessary with a primer-pop. I have done this with a brass rod I carry in my range bag on my 9mm pistol barrel. Seat barrel on solid wood surface and a brisk tap with steel hammer on top of rod. It has happened twice over the years because the dumbkoff on the end of the reloading press wasn't paying enough attention.
If you try to shoot the stuck bullet out you risk the chance of a bulged barrel, I'm not questioning Ganderite's advice but this same procedure has resulted in bulged barrels in the past.
The powder charge would depend on where the bullet is stuck and how thick the barrel is at this point. Meaning there is a reason why the chamber has the thickest metal surrounding it and where the peak pressure develops.
Do you use a quick burning powder like trail Boss or a slow power like H4831?
Below is my practice load for my AR15 rifles and the pressure peaks at three inches down the barrel.
Below is my lite practice load for my .44 magnum and the pressure peaks at less than 1 1/2 inches down the barrel.
So my question is at what chamber pressure and at what point down the barrel is safe to shoot a stuck bullet. Meaning at what point do you want to reach peak pressure and also "how" much pressure.
I was too chicken to try this and shoot out the bullet and just used a brass rod to pound out the bullet.
The powder charge would depend on where the bullet is stuck and how thick the barrel is at this point. Meaning there is a reason why the chamber has the thickest metal surrounding it and where the peak pressure develops.
Do you use a quick burning powder like trail Boss or a slow power like H4831?
Below is my practice load for my AR15 rifles and the pressure peaks at three inches down the barrel.
Below is my lite practice load for my .44 magnum and the pressure peaks at less than 1 1/2 inches down the barrel.
So my question is at what chamber pressure and at what point down the barrel is safe to shoot a stuck bullet. Meaning at what point do you want to reach peak pressure and also "how" much pressure.
I was too chicken to try this and shoot out the bullet and just used a brass rod to pound out the bullet.
Yup, fully aware of the rifle the OP has. However since the .303 British bore can vary from 0.308" to 0.318" (and we don't know what bore he has) my statement stands. Since 5/16" is 0.3125", a 5/16" drill rod may indeed fit. More than likely his bore is 0.309 or 0.310 (which is what mine is) but assumptions are never good. If that's the case then a 7mm drill rod will work perfectly.
A 1/4" rod is not suitable in a .303 as it will most definitely tip the spitzer projectile and run the risk of jambing. Counterboring the drill rod in a lathe with a centering bit is great, but I'm guessing he doesn't have that ability or he would not be on here asking for help; and why I offered to make him a sabot for that purpose. That would allow him to use any rod that he can get locally including 1/4".
