Bullet jammed in my JC

DO NOT USE A WOOD DOWEL:eek:
What can happen is the wood will split and then you will have TWO obstructions in the bore!!!!!!
Steel or brass rod. NOT a cleaning rod as there is a possibility it will wedge next to the point on the bullet and again you will have TWO obstructions in the bore!!:eek:
 
I have shot stuck bullets many, many times. i do it at the range, with ahrdly a beak in the shooting action.

Pull the bullet from a loaded round (use the muzzle to hold the bulelt while rocking cases from side to side to make it loose.)

Dump out about a quarter of the powder. Stick in a small wad of Klenaex to hold power in place.

Holding muzzle up, gently chamber case - pull trigger.

Confirm bullet is gone and carry on.

I make a point of doing this if bullet is less than half way down the barrel. If more than half way, I use a cleaning rod with jag removed and a piece of tape on end to keep rod centered in barrel. Helps to clean and lubricate the barrel from chamber to bullet.
 
tjhaile said:
What bullets are you using? I had this problem when I experimented with bullets and powder from Czech surplus 7.62x39. The bullets were undersize by just enough that there wasn't enough neck tension in a sized case to hold them securely. The primer would ingnite, driving the bullet into the throat without igniting the powder.

Sizing without the expander ball allowed the neck to hold the bullets securely. My dies are an older RCBS set.
Click to expand...

The culprit load was hornady 174gr RN, CCI200 primers, full load of H4895, necksized brass. I think the combination of the primers and the powder to be the culprit... The powder never ignited, but it was scorched by the primer, and I can almost guarantee that it was not wet powder. Never had a problem with any other powders using CCI primers, and also never had a problem with H4895 and Winchester primers. I think I am going to switch back to using IMR4320 and see if I can get some more consistency out of it, keep the other stuff for my 308.
 
Many blank powders are not suitable to be used behind ANY bullet, due to their fast burn rate.
 
Don't use wood. Just don't.
Go with brass or even steel with tape wrapper around it every 4 or 6 inches.

If there was no powder at all in it should come out pretty easy but if it doesn't and you wedge wood splinters around the bullet things will be worse rather than better.
 
"...Why not fire it out..." Because the bullet is an obstruction. Gases will have no place to go, but back and sideways. It'll bulge the barrel. Ditto if you use a blank.
Wooden dowels are too soft. They tend to get mushed and get stuck in the barrel. Use a 1/4" brass or Al rod and a plastic mallet.
 
Is it me or can't an easier solution to use a the blunt end of a cleaning rod and a rubber mallet and tap the bullet out towards the muzzle from the breach end ? Just the reserve of the bore slugging technique.
 
I think the theory is that is the cleaning rod is steel, tapping on it will cause it to scar the rifle bore. It's tip is bound to bounce or deflect off of the end off the bullet and into the rifling/bore damaging it and thus less accuracy
I wouldn't argue the point for or against; but why take a chance?
 
Nabs said:
Is it me or can't an easier solution to use a the blunt end of a cleaning rod and a rubber mallet and tap the bullet out towards the muzzle from the breach end ? Just the reserve of the bore slugging technique.
Click to expand...

Air pressure, hydrolic pressure - all will work.
A steel or brass cleaning rod that just fits the bore is the quickest and easiest.
 
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