bullet seating problem to deep?

JTF#

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I just got to making some rounds for my 45-60 and ran into a problem.
it looks like the bullets I am using are a little long and I have to seat them to deep to get the right OACL.

anyway I can fix this??

I trimmed brass to 1.88 and seated the bullet to 2.25 and they look like this.

in my book it says you can trim brass down to 1.81. should i try that? but I still think the bullet will be to deep for a crimp.



 
If it's a single shot, I wouldn't bother crimping, to start.
If it's a lever, I'd make up a dummy cartridge with that bullet, and see how long a length I could get away with.
With that long point, it won't jam in the leade, it's more what will fit through the action.
 
If you download Irfanview image viewer http://www.irfanview.com/ you would be able to have your cartridges pointing North and we wouldn't have to stand on our heads to look at your photos.

As you can see below you can auto adjust the color and crop your photos.

3rtxdbqn7pqx6j8960cc_zpsb59c74b0.jpg


mf0jgah2jry8cohuzvic_zps43962f36.jpg


You could even fool the forum members you were taking a psychedelic trip when you were reloading.

3rtxdbqn7pqx6j8960cc-B_zps68c8eac9.jpg


Or that this over all length problem is making you feel blue.

3rtxdbqn7pqx6j8960cc-C_zpsaf36df55.jpg


And Rory McCanuck above gave you all the advice you need so all I could do is pull your leg about your photos.:cheers:

NOTICE: No cartridge cases were hurt or injured during the Irfanview filming of this posting.
 
Where are you getting your oal number from? Do what rory said and find the longest oal that feeds through your gun.
 
Suspect your 2.25" is too short for that bullet. What's the bullet weight? I'd use the top lube ring and a light crimp.
Rummage around here. Add the W's .cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=36384.0
 
every cartridge for the 1876 Winchester has an oal of 2.25. I put the dummy round I made up in the rifle and there is 0 room left. so I am wondering what I do now?
the round wont feed being set back in the case like that and if I trim back the brass it will be mega short. should I just like you said seat them to the top ring and maybe just fire them single shot until I can find the proper bullets? there are only 267g bullets.
 
I know the bullet is wrong. its really for the .45-70 anyways. if I seat the bullet properly making the oal longer would it still be safe to fire them just loading them single shot?
 
Of course. That's how I shoot 500gr pointed bullets in my Marlin 1895G. They are so long they can't get out the ejection port; if I don't fire the round, I need to remove the bolt to get the round out of the chamber.
So long as the round fits in the chamber/throat, it can be safely fired (assuming it's a suitable weight, acceptable diameter, and using published load data). Since making it longer will increase case capacity you will be slightly decreasing pressure.
 
the bullet I have is .267g and the load data I have is for a .292g bullet. I was just thinking of using there starting load for powder under the 267g bullet?.
 
JTF#

There is nothing wrong with jamming the bullet into the lands as long as you work up your load. In the late 1800s schuetzen rifles breach loaders would pre-seat the lead bullet into the rifling using a hollow false chamber seating the bullet with a wooden rod. The false chamber would be removed and a cartridge case with power charge sealed with a hard paper wad would be chambered.

If you visit http://www.accurateshooter.com/ you will find many competitive that "jam" the bullet into the rifling. And I have done it many,many times and it perfectly safe as long as you work up the load and check the case and primer for signs of pressure.

Below is a description of breech seated bullet meaning forcing the bullet into the rifling first and then loading a case charged with powder. (meaning you can seat the bullet as long as you like in your rifle and by working up a load)

Cast Bullets For Beginner And Expert
SECOND EDITION, 2007 - Joe Brennan

Chapter 6.6.1 RELOADING FOR THE SINGLE SHOT RIFLE

http://www.lasc.us/brennan_6-6-1_loadsingleshotrifles.htm
 
I'm not sure how much experience the OP has, but I'd advise a cleaning rod or dowel if he's to attempt "jamming the bullet" into the lands. Always a great treat to cycle the action and find a dandy powder mess with the bullet stuck. He really needs the correct bullet.
 
I think you are using the wrong bullet. The 45-60 was meant to use a short fat RN bullet, the one you show is way too pointy.

^^^^ This
Absolutely the wrong bullet, it's designed for the 455 Webley, I believe, and the nose is way too long for the 45-60
I see that you put the 45-60 up for sale! don't give up so quickly.
Get some of the right bullets (the ones your looking for on the EE are OK), and try again
 
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I'm not sure how much experience the OP has, but I'd advise a cleaning rod or dowel if he's to attempt "jamming the bullet" into the lands. Always a great treat to cycle the action and find a dandy powder mess with the bullet stuck. He really needs the correct bullet.

The OP needs to make a test case that is loose enough to just barely hold the bullet and then chamber the test round letting the throat/rifling seat the bullet back into the case and get the max length for loading a single round. My point was to let to OP know he could seat the bullet longer and not cause high pressure condition as long as he worked up his load. A standard fireforming technique is jamming the bullets into the lands to hold the base of the case against the bolt face. For added insurance if the bullet is crimped along with proper bullet tension the bullet isn't going to be a problem if it is removed after loading. And I have never even pulled a jacketed bullet out of the case when jamming into the rifling. This is a make do experiment until he makes or buys better cast bullets.

From your link saskgunowner101

With a case length between
1.88 and 1.89 inches the bullet must
be seated so the case is crimped over
the front driving band and on the
ogive (and is how it was originally
designed).

If the OP lengthens the OAL approximately 1/8 of an inch he might make it with a crimp.
 
I didn't fall off the turnip truck last night when it comes to reloading.:p Just suggesting the best way for the problem to go away is to use correct bullets, seat them to 2.25 (was the spec?) and call it a day. I have no problem jamming the lands either in some of my rifles, but a "cast" bullet truly will pull itself out of its case.

Imagine my surprise with the cruise missile bullet in my 6.5x55mm Swedish mauser....

I tend to think of c.o.l. as a guideline, not a hard and fast rule. I also think in the situation the OP has, that even if he finds his max c.o.l. with this bullet, he's stuck with a single shot lever action.

The easiest way I've found to measure col is to insert a dowel or rod from the muzzle into a closed action. Mark a line at the muzzle. Now insert a bullet without a case into the chamber, with a different dowel or pencil. Stick the dowel with the mark down the barrel again, and make a mark. This is about max col for this bullet, quick n dirty.
 
The OP needs to make a test case that is loose enough to just barely hold the bullet and then chamber the test round letting the throat/rifling seat the bullet back into the case and get the max length for loading a single round. My point was to let to OP know he could seat the bullet longer and not cause high pressure condition as long as he worked up his load. A standard fireforming technique is jamming the bullets into the lands to hold the base of the case against the bolt face. For added insurance if the bullet is crimped along with proper bullet tension the bullet isn't going to be a problem if it is removed after loading. And I have never even pulled a jacketed bullet out of the case when jamming into the rifling. This is a make do experiment until he makes or buys better cast bullets.

From your link saskgunowner101

With a case length between
1.88 and 1.89 inches the bullet must
be seated so the case is crimped over
the front driving band and on the
ogive (and is how it was originally
designed).

If the OP lengthens the OAL approximately 1/8 of an inch he might make it with a crimp.

The op can't screw around with OAL with a Win 76. They are VERY sensitive to OAL. Too short, or, too long and they just don't cycle.
He needs the right bullet, with the crimp grove in the right place.
 
I have a mould for a 340g bullet but I cant find any specs on what powder to use or how much? the biggest bullet in my book is 330g. is 10 grain heaver to far to use the same specs?

I found the mould for the 330 but it is hollow point that I don't want and its also like over $70.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about a bullet 10 grains heavier (340 vs 330) if the col can be within specs and feed in your rifle. That's really only a 3-4 % difference in weight, so back off the load a touch powder wise before working up, and I can't see a problem. Too bad you couldn't find a bullet with a profile like some of the lee 45 colt molds but .458. Those nice sharp as a bus bullets would be the ticket if they were fatter.
 
I have a mould for a 340g bullet but I cant find any specs on what powder to use or how much? the biggest bullet in my book is 330g. is 10 grain heaver to far to use the same specs?

I found the mould for the 330 but it is hollow point that I don't want and its also like over $70.

The 10 grain difference in bullet weight will make no difference, these are not hot loads. Use the 330gr data.
The hollow point makes a fine deer bullet, you should try it.

The Lyman Reloading Handbook, 49th edition, has a section on reloading for replica 1876's. There are loads for the 292 grain no. 457191, and 330 gr no. 457122 moulds
 
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