Bullet sorting??

Gunneegoogoo

Gunneegoogoo

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Hi Guys,

As I ramp up my anal-retentiveness I'm wondering what intervals you'll sort your bullets into. 0.1gr? 0.25? 1.0?

After throwing a few juggernauts on my scale it seems that about .5gr difference is the norm.

Merci.

-J.
 
Grab the worst range of weights from this lot.

Grab some identical weight ones.

Make up 10rds using each batch of bullets over your best load. Have some one give you 5rds so you shoot them without knowing which batch you are using.

Compare the groups... decide how you want to sort the bullets.

Jerry
 
Don't sort my brass (other then by mfg), don't sort bullets, don't weigh either (except the powder, and then only every 8 or 10 drops from the powder measure to make sure it hasn't gone flaky.

But I also don't measure my groups to the thousandth's of an inch. I hunt my rounds.

And while I look for the tightest group I don't go crazy figuring out a charge weight. Load say 40, 40.5, 41 and 41.5 grains as an example. If 40.5 gives me the best group of the bunch I call that good - I don't start horsing around with 40.25 - 40.75 to see if I can squeeze out .002" better grouping. Like I said, hunting round where 2 moa is as accurate as I need to be, so whether I can improve on a 5/8" grouping or not is of no consequence.

Reloading is one of those hobbies where you need to define your goal "first" and then work towards it. Most of us will never be a good enough shot at the kind of distance where even a full grain difference in the weight of a bullet will make one bit of difference.

And not trying to be critical here, but if you were a good enough shot that you could see a 1 grain difference in the impact point, you would probably already know the answer as to how you would need to sort your bullets if at all.
 
Exactly what I was thinking. Most precision rifles outshoot a decent reloader. At the end of the day we know where the problem is.
Mystic Precision said:
Grab the worst range of weights from this lot.

Grab some identical weight ones.

Make up 10rds using each batch of bullets over your best load. Have some one give you 5rds so you shoot them without knowing which batch you are using.

Compare the groups... decide how you want to sort the bullets.

Jerry
Click to expand...
 
Thx Jerry.

I'm not doing this for hunting.

I'm starting in precision, so that's why I DONT ALREADY KNOW THE ANSWER TO MY QUESTION.

I can hit the boiler room of a whitetail with factory ammo. If 2MOA was good enough for me I'd use surplus.

Any other precision guys out there that can offer advice, rather than suggesting I'm not a good enough shot to warrant striving for the best?

If "don't bother" is the answer, I'm fine with that.

Thanks,

-J.
 
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Wasn't trying to give a "smart" answer...I actually do mean to try this test.

There will be a variety of things that you need prove vs your shooting style and your rifle. Some stuff may matter to you that doesn't to some other set up.

Say runout... I have tested some bullets that were completely tolerant of runout. Others that were highly sensitive.

Proximity to the lands, twist rates, velocity spread and so forth.

So the key to truly understanding precision loading is to test to meet your style and your goals. There is rarely one set up that applies to everything and every system.

Try the blind test... see what happens. Then when you shoot another bullet, brand, whatever, repeat and see if this new system is affected.

Takes alot of shooting to really get a feel for what truly matters.... to you.

Jerry
 
ogive to base is more important then weight, bullet shape seams to trump bullet weight when it comes to long range precision
 
Gunneegoogoo said:
How is that done?
Click to expand...

the same ogive comparator that you use when loading and measuring to the ogive, just use it to measure from the ogive of the bullet to the base of the bullet.
When sorting some 6mm berger bullets there where a couple in a box of 500 that were 20 thou shorter then the rest, most in the box were within a thou in length
 
GGG........do you have a rifle built to use for this game? Trying all the precision techniques with an off the shelf sporter or varmint rifle is a waste of components and your time.......99% of the time. Unless you know the rifle is capable, or have reason to believe the rifle is capable of .25" groups, it is just an effort in futility. Having or acquiring the appropriate rifle and cartridge to start with goes a long ways towards .25" groups, even before you start the precision reloading techniques.
 
Yessir, I have one coming.

Custom Rempel built F class gun from Jefferson. Panda action, .308, Robertson stock, jewel benchrest trigger.

I'm very excited!!!

I'm already part way there with my 6.5 and my .338. My 6.5 can do 1/4" for sure, and I'm working on my .338.
 
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I didn't mean for my reply to come across as "snide" - I answer dozens of questions a day from guys who are always looking for some magic formula or trying to push some envelope because they think it will somehow excuse them from actually learning how to shoot and putting in the time to get proficient - most of them are simply "hunters" that reload a little and in reality, 2 MOA is all they need and are capable of regardless of how accurate the round is.

If you had of given some background to your question (it is now obvious you are starting to venture into precision shooting and this is simply a reloading forum) I would have answered differently - sorry if I offended you.
 
because of this, I sorted 400 175 SMK's by weight. Surprisingly 60% were at 174.9, 9% at 174.8 and 29% at 175. There were 5 @ 175.1 gr and 3 at 174.7 gr. I'm going to load them up by each bag and see what happens. So they are segregated by 0.1gr, other than the 175.1 and 174.7 which i'm just gonna load as foulers.
 
I ordered ogive-base comparators last night on YoDave's guidance.....that is after I wrapped my head around what that actually means.....!!!!

Bloody hell there's a lot to know in this game...!!
 
bsand said:
because of this, I sorted 400 175 SMK's by weight. Surprisingly 60% were at 174.9, 9% at 174.8 and 29% at 175. There were 5 @ 175.1 gr and 3 at 174.7 gr. I'm going to load them up by each bag and see what happens. So they are segregated by 0.1gr, other than the 175.1 and 174.7 which i'm just gonna load as foulers.
Click to expand...

Try and do the blind test with a friend. Be interesting to see how the widest weights group vs the core weight with this bullet.

So for me, I would make up a 5 or 6 shot group with 174.7 AND 175.1 to compare with groups shot with 174.9 and 175gr. Obviously, I would want to work up the best load using the 175/174.9gr bullets first.

Just don't see which ammo you are shooting so you don't taint the results. If you can test at 300m, the results would be very interesting to hear about.

If your buddy can plot the impacts of each shot vs bullet weight, then you can see if there is group size change and/or vertical change as well.

Jerry
 
Gunneegoogoo said:
I ordered ogive-base comparators last night on YoDave's guidance.....that is after I wrapped my head around what that actually means.....!!!!

Bloody hell there's a lot to know in this game...!!
Click to expand...

I don't mean to get in the way of your excitement, it's already great to see people excited about f class. And it looks like your off to a great start with the rifle.

If I could suggest not rush into buying equipment that you don't know what gains you'll get even before you fire a single shot from a rifle.

If you're goal is to build consistent match grade ammo. Bullet weight or base to ogive measurement would be NOT be on top of most Fclass competitor list of variables for precise ammo. Things like charge weight consistency, runout and neck tension play a greater role in precise match ammo. Selection of components also play a big role in precision eg bullets type, brass manufacturer, primer type, powder etc.
 
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bsand said:
because of this, I sorted 400 175 SMK's by weight. Surprisingly 60% were at 174.9, 9% at 174.8 and 29% at 175. There were 5 @ 175.1 gr and 3 at 174.7 gr. I'm going to load them up by each bag and see what happens. So they are segregated by 0.1gr, other than the 175.1 and 174.7 which i'm just gonna load as foulers.
Click to expand...

Now sort each weight group by base to ogive and compare.....;) it will never end the number issues we shooters can make up or perceive problem we create when our comes to precision. ;)
 
308BAR said:
I don't mean to get in the way of your excitement, it's already great to see people excited about f class. And it looks like your off to a great start with the rifle.

If I could suggest not rush into buying equipment that you don't know what gains you'll get even before you fire a single shot from a rifle.

If you're goal is to build consistent match grade ammo. Bullet weight or base to ogive measurement would be NOT be on top of most Fclass competitor list of variables for precise ammo. Things like charge weight consistency, runout and neck tension play a greater role in precise match ammo. Selection of components also play a big role in precision eg bullets type, brass manufacturer, primer type, powder etc.
Click to expand...

Like I said, I'm new to F, not completely new to precision.

I have a jewel scale, micrometer seaters, a headspace comparator, runout gauge, neck thickness gauge, 21st century turners, primer pocket and flash hole uniformers, lapua and nosler brass, and Berger bullets.

I'm not ignoring your advice, but it's too late.....now I need to get shooting!!!

I must admit, at least 40% of this is academic for me.....
 
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