Bullet stuck in Barrel
- Thread starter xman111
- Start date
that's what im going to do next time. guy at the counter lent me a brass rod, but it needed a couple taps with a hammer, which i didn't have. Next time i will bring both hammer and my own brass rod in my shooting bag.
I had it happen once where I used too much resizing lubricant, and it deactivated the primers when the primers were seated.
Learned the tough way with .338 Lapua.
Squib loads are no fun. Mount a light over your press so you can check every case for powder before seating the bullet.
Learned the tough way with .338 Lapua.
Squib loads are no fun. Mount a light over your press so you can check every case for powder before seating the bullet.
If you can't find any brass rod, a length of steel rod will also work. Just wrap tape around it to get a slip fit and prevent metal-on metal contact. You don't have to tape the whole length; just near the end contacting the bullet and where the rod would protrude from the barrel.
Yes - with a double or no charge, the sleeve being pushed up by the brass should completely lock and stop the press. So, either its an adjustment issue or the die is defective. I've heard a lot of complaints about the lockout die, so maybe call RCBS (one of mine got sent back, the others worked fine).
With your cleaning rod, determine how far the bullet is into the bore.
I have a brass rod of just under .30 cal that will dislodge a bullet by dropping it straight down the barrel using the force of gravity. Only happened once but one drop did the trick.
I have a brass rod of just under .30 cal that will dislodge a bullet by dropping it straight down the barrel using the force of gravity. Only happened once but one drop did the trick.
i've tried that with a .22 and it just blasts the powder down the barrel.
you should be able to do that with a .22 blank (eg the power/powder hammer ones) but it has a crimp on the end so most of the powder ignites.
so unless you crimp the end of the round, i don't see it working.
Call me ol'fashioned, but I'd have difficulty trusting any mechanical system to safeguard me and my wife's fingers or life. The wife loves shooting my .45 acp reloads. We shoot at least 1,000 rounds of .45 between us each month even in winter. My wife has her own targets and may not recognize a squib from a misfire and thus work the action to continue. While she knows what a squib load is, I just cannot allow it to happen, as slim as the chance might be.
So I manually visually check each and every load before the bullet is set for seating. I have a goose neck light mounted on my reloading bench for exactly this reason. If I think I had a brain fart because of a distraction and can't remember if I checked, I pull the loaded cartridge apart and do it again.
Yeah exactly. But on the other hand, I guess the technology isn't so bad considering these forums would be full of blowups due to so many young folks who figure they're wasting time unless they meet their 800 pistol rounds per hour quota on their Dillon progressives.
As I said, I'm ol'fashioned
If the bullet fails to move at all after mild tapping with a brass rod and hammer i would suggest taking to a gunsmith. I had a squib fire once and proceeded to try and remove via hammer and brass rod. After pounding pretty hard and it didn't move i took it to a gunsmith, the vibe i got from him after telling him how i tried to remove was kind of like this , "
lets hope you didn't wreck your barrel son" He then proceeded to get the bullet out using methods which didn't include brass rods and hammers.
Though he didn't condone it, he didn't completely outlaw the rod/hammer method, but indicated to be careful and if it doesn't move after light tapping to take it to a gunsmith.
I guess it's also a discretion thing. I mean it wasn't free for him to do it for me, so if your gun is worth $150 it's maybe worth pounding away, but if it's a $1500 1911 maybe the gunsmith is money well spent
Anyway more than anything glad no one was hurt and it was all resolved sensibly and safely either way!
lets hope you didn't wreck your barrel son" He then proceeded to get the bullet out using methods which didn't include brass rods and hammers.Though he didn't condone it, he didn't completely outlaw the rod/hammer method, but indicated to be careful and if it doesn't move after light tapping to take it to a gunsmith.
I guess it's also a discretion thing. I mean it wasn't free for him to do it for me, so if your gun is worth $150 it's maybe worth pounding away, but if it's a $1500 1911 maybe the gunsmith is money well spent
Anyway more than anything glad no one was hurt and it was all resolved sensibly and safely either way!
Skyhawk has it with post #30. Rounds per hour pales beside time lost waiting for broken fingers, lacerated hands, tendon surgery, blinded eyes to heal. Not to mention just the aggravation of having to beat a squibbed bullet out of the bore, or take the gun home and ruin your day shooting. Really wrecks a Provincial IPSC match, to zero a stage because you had to fix a squib, and it totally ruins a match if you forcibly modify your gun. But drive on, use a progressive as you learn to load, more fun for the rest of us!
hey why no love? i am not trying to set any speed records, or be wreckless. I have a small family and im trying to make it a little cheaper to shoot because i love the sport. I weighed 30 of them and threw the powder back in the case before i even started loading a few. I also paid a longtime reloader to come by and just triple check my setup and what i was doing before i went any further. only after that, i loaded only 20 rounds after he said it looked good.
burnt_servo
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
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no one got hurt , no one died ........ hopefully you learned something
people screw up many many times before they get something right , the trick is to not kill / hurt yourself or others when you do screw up ..... heck if you do it right no one will even notice and you get to save face
I had this happen with my 50bmg. 60 seconds of pure panic while I held on and reassured myself that I put a fresh load in the chamber. Wooden rod and the barrel drop method solved it quickly.
The bullet is still on my shelf of mistakes. One of my best lessons to date.
My shooting partner has a polymer pistol frame in many pieces on his shelf of valuable lessons. First run with his progressive too.
The bullet is still on my shelf of mistakes. One of my best lessons to date.
My shooting partner has a polymer pistol frame in many pieces on his shelf of valuable lessons. First run with his progressive too.
Could you share with us / me what that method was. An inquiring mind wishes to know. Thanks.
No prob! I'll tell you as best as i remember.....
Well first he put some lube down the barrel and heated it a little bit and let it sit for a while. Then he went over to his lathe/hydraulic press. He took a rod and lathed it to the appropriate dimensions to fit my barrel perfectly. With the lathe he also shaped the tip of the rod with a bit of a cup with a minut little point right in the middle. He said this helps assure that the rod/force stays centered while getting bullet out etc. Then he basically mounted the barrel in his hydraulic press/lathe and then with percision slowly pressed the bullet out of the barrel. He did a few other little things too, but that's the jist of it.
He also said he's had guys come in who have tried to pound bullets out of their barrel and they have actually pounded the lead right through the jacket of the bullet, leaving the jacket stuck to the rifling of the barrel making it even more fun/costly for him to remove.
I'm not saying this is the be all and end all of bullet removing, just was my experience that's all.
