bullets with cannelure

Every seating die I have ever used has the ability to crimp the case mouth if you set it up to do so.
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Dillon seating die dies are the one example I can think of that don't crimp because they come in a set with a separate crimp die.
 
OK guys, here she is again...

Senior, I am a newbie reloader. I just got into Varmint hunting last year and a buddy gave me some handloads for my .223 and I was amazed at how well they shot.

I have shot competitive archery for years but am now wanting to get into the firearm side of things (not too seriously though). Like archery, if I can find a way to squeeze a little more accuracy out of my rig, I will. I will start by simply full length sizing but I needed a shell holder for my press and thought, what's an extra 30some bucks to get the shell holder and neck sizing die or crimping die for down the road. I am leaning towards a neck sizing die right now but hopefully at some local shoots I will learn from experienced shooters and make up my mind with a little extra knowledge.

You gotta love the help you get here on CGN though.
 
Can you seperate your sig line from the text a little more :cool:
Sure is hard to concentrate on your thread! :)

If your playing with a hunting rifle, my suggest is to work with standard dies till your much more familiar. Your reg FLS die can neck size a cartridge just fine. Full Length Size (FLS) all your cases & trim them equal, then on 2nd fireing just screw your FLS die up approx 1 turn, you now will only be neck sizeing your brass as it has been fired and tailored to your rifle. I have fired many a 1/2-3/4" group thru a good Varmint gun useing this method.

Have you figured out how to find the lands in your rifle?
 
i'd recommend you use a lee collet die set, they for sure extend the life of your brass by a large margin, you don't have to lube your cases like you do for all FL dies other than RCBS carbide dies, and it allows your cases to be very tailored to your rifle by fireforming to contour to the exact dimensions of your particular chamber, which increases consistancy, accuracy, and speed of reloading... it's a win win win situation. I also believe that by neck sizing only you can develop loads much closer to max pressure without affecting the brass than you could by FL sizing alone.
Love the sig... how do you put something like that there? we should all take a lesson from you.
 
Senior, a buddy of mine mentioned fire forming the brass and adjustin gthe FLS die just like you said.

I have not figured out how to find the lands in my gun. I am assuming you are heading towards seating depth differences? I have yet to experiment with that yet. To be honest, I tried my buddies handloads and maybe we got lucky or mayb eth gun will shoot even better but I was getting .6 to .5 groups average with amy smallest being .4 from the prone position. maybe i had a lucky day but it seem sthat this gun will shoot and I am eager to put build a pet load for it and see if I can't make it a paper shredder.

Mikeystew, the signature thing is easy to do. Find your favourite dancing girl avatar and copy the direct link into your signature line in profiles and you are done. Bouncy bouncy bouncy!
 
DsrtRat said:
I have not figured out how to find the lands in my gun. I am assuming you are heading towards seating depth differences?
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theres OAL gauges that you can get to measure the distance to lands or you can also do it by using a bullet and empty case. Make sure the case hasnt been neck sized and use some pilers to tighten the neck so it will hold a bullet. Insert the bullet in the case so that its barely in there and then load it in the gun and close the bolt. Now carefully eject the case, measure the OAL and that is your distance to lands. Do this 2-3 times to make sure the number is the same. For your loads you want to start off 0.020in or 0.010in.
 
bisonhd said:
May also help crimp the bullet jacket to the core. There's bullets with two canures, or in he Hornady 180 sp, a crimped canure with a fine line just above it.
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If you're referring to the Hornady Interlok 30 calibre 180 gr. SP, the fine groove just forward of the cannelure is/was there for ID purposes only, and as far as I know is no longer used in the manufacture of that bullet.

I assume that the ID line was there so reloaders could tell their finished 180 gr. SP rounds from their 165 gr. SP rounds, which otherwise look identical, to me anyway, using Interloks. :)
 
neotekz said:
theres OAL gauges that you can get to measure the distance to lands or you can also do it by using a bullet and empty case. Make sure the case hasnt been neck sized and use some pilers to tighten the neck so it will hold a bullet. Insert the bullet in the case so that its barely in there and then load it in the gun and close the bolt. Now carefully eject the case, measure the OAL and that is your distance to lands. Do this 2-3 times to make sure the number is the same. For your loads you want to start off 0.020in or 0.010in.
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Exactly how I find the lands, but I add a twist.
I color the area of the bullet where I think the lands are going to make contact with a black felt pen, the lands take the ink off where they touch.
 
JEC said:
I have shot cannelured bullets seated close to lands which resulted in the cannelure being completely exposed in front of the csae neck..with no problems. The cannelure length is pretty long, as it is not designed to fit a particular chambering, and consequently can fit almost all common chamberings regardless of neck length.
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That's right. The cannelure on a sporting bullet is the one size fits all, variety. Just as factory loaded ammo is one size will work in any rifle chambered according to SAAMI standards.
In handloading, of course, the bullet can be seated as desired.
 
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