Burn marks on cylinder

K

kp1

Member
Rating - 100%
13   0   0
Was out shooting my new S&W .460, after 20 shots it developed powder burns on the cylinder, they do not clean off(easily or completely). Is there a way to prevent this or is it normal?
 
Normal with revolver, go on ebay and look for ''lead away'' clothes, it works just fine to remove the powder..., and try this : shine your gun with car wax, it will be easier to remove the crap...
 
Alternately, just leave it there. It only gets so bad then just hits steady state... lol. I used to fanatically clean it, but now I no longer bother on my wheel guns unless it gets thick enough to jam the cylinder (doubtful - has never happened to me shooting smokeless).
 
This:

sm_lead_remover_polishing_cloth.jpg
 
For bad buildup try a small brass wheel in a dremel. Be careful to use a slower speed and don't worry about it removing metal on stainless, IT WON'T. What it MAY do is 'swirl' the finish on brushed stainless so be extra careful not to accidentally buff against the grain on any brushed surface.
 
Well, while we're on this topic I might as well as take the opportunity to ask about cleaning my own revolver.

It's a Model 17. I love it dearly, but I got it used and it had some issued that required a gunsmith (ridiculous lead buildup around the forcing cone and the timing was off). Since then, I view everything about it with a measure of suspicion. I also have no experience with 22LR revolvers, which doesn't help. In any case, after shooting when I come to clean it up, the face of the cylinder seems impossible to get clean. I'm fine with burn marks since the face of my 686 is no stranger to the Birchwood Casey patches every few months, but this fouling looks different to me. Photo:

100_0183.JPG


My superb photography reveals the silver/grey residue left on the cylinder face. Am I being some negligent monster or is this nothing to worry about? Any tips on cleaning it off if someday I really want to pretty the gun up for whatever reason? I know the blued finish is too sensitive for a lot of the stuff I can use on my stainless guns, so any advice is appreciated.

Thanks for any help/advice.
 
The grey streaks are lead that got sheared off and shot out the cylinder gap.

Are you the one which had the big buildup around the forcing cone as well? If so and given the amount of deposit on the face of your cylinder I think I'd be looking at having a smith check the lockup position to see if the chambers are in good alignment with the barrel. It may be that your crane is bent a little or something else going on which is positioning the chamber mouth out of alignment.

My own 17 never gets the sort of lead buildup around the cone as you have. I also only get a fraction of the cylinder face streaking that you've got.
 
BCRider said:
The grey streaks are lead that got sheared off and shot out the cylinder gap.

Are you the one which had the big buildup around the forcing cone as well? If so and given the amount of deposit on the face of your cylinder I think I'd be looking at having a smith check the lockup position to see if the chambers are in good alignment with the barrel. It may be that your crane is bent a little or something else going on which is positioning the chamber mouth out of alignment.

My own 17 never gets the sort of lead buildup around the cone as you have. I also only get a fraction of the cylinder face streaking that you've got.
Click to expand...

Damn it. I just got the thing back from a gunsmith who fixed up the lead buildup and said they test-fired it without problem, but I was immediately suspicious about it after shooting it a few times (maybe 50 rounds through it produced all that fouling). I've been told that it's probably an ammo issue by some people but I wasn't thinking so. I'll take it to another gunsmith and be deprived of this sweetness for another two months I guess :(

Either way, thanks for the help as always. This gun is going to end up costing more than a new one!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom