burn rate not everything? school me

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ringanator

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Maybe some one can school me on burn rate powder selection and load data


1. R-1 (Norma) 59.
2. N310 (Vihtavuori)
3. Titewad (Hodgdon)
4. AS- 30N (ADI)
5. Nitro 100 (Accurate)
6. Bullseye (Alliant)
7. Solo 1000 (Accurate)
8. Red Diamond (Scot)
9. AS (Vectan)
10. Red Dot (Alliant)
11. Promo (Alliant)
12. Titegroup (Hodgdon)
13. No. 2 (Accurate)
14. American Select
15. AA Plus (Winchester)
16. Clays (Hodgdon)
17. N320 (Vihtavuori)
18. Competition (Ramshot)
19. Royal D (Scot)
20. WST (Winchester)
21. AP- 50N (ADI)
22. HP38 (Hodgdon)
23. AO (Vectan)
24. 452AA (Winchester)
25. 453 (Scot)
26. 231 (Winchester)

Hears a list of 25 now I have used bullseye for my 9mm my main powder but I have also used hp 38 now one would think that there would be a load for everything inbetween now recently was given 8 # of winchester aa plus but there is no load data anywhere for 9mm according to the burn chart it should be close to tightgroup
 
Just because it's similar in burn rate doesn't mean they were meant for the same application.

Winchester aa plus is a shotgun powder so my semi educated guess is that it's to bulky to have any meaningful load data in 9mm. That being said you could likely trade that to the shot gunners for some pistol powder, assuming they have any.
 
Some loading manuals don't include a burn chart because many guys think the powders near the one they are using are automatically safe. I pay almost no attention to these lists.
 
I cannot speak for your 9mm load, but I have used shotgun powders for which there was NO handgun data available successfully.

I developed a load in the 357 Magnum with 125 grain jacketed, using old WW 473AA. It has turned out to be the cleanest, most consistent load I have ever used.
But you cannot find data for it anywhere. Since I have several tins of 473AA, I am pleased to be able to use it in my 357s.

Regards, Dave.
 
Burn rate along with how much gas volume is produced during the burn will determine the peak pressure and how fast the pressure occurs. There is also an issue of case volume which plays a part in the peak pressure. And that's why some powders can be used in 9mm and others are not recommended.

If you want to try developing a load for this powder you'll want to do so with a chronometer. You'll be looking for the amount of powder that develops the same muzzle velocity as your Bullseye loads. At the same time you will also be looking for signs of over pressure as indicated by condition of fired primers and the enthusiasm of the ejected brass along with the muzzle velocity. Since you don't have a pressure measuring setup these would have to make do. And it means you want to sneak up on your final load in small increments looking for signs of over pressure along the way.

If you reach the point where a full casing isn't enough then clearly it's a bad choice.

And really your better option would be to look at swapping for a handgun rated powder.

Eagleye had good luck with his .357's but those cases have a LOT more volume. This works in his favour both because it will hold the powder needed but also the greater initial volume acts like a limiter and more of a cushion to the pressure build when the powder burns.
 
I would develop a load, using the AA.

Use TiteGroup data, start at START loads, and work up in 0.3 gr increments, and test for accuracy and velocity.

You need a chronograph so as to not load too fast. pressure = velocity. no free lunch. If you exceed Titegroup velocities, you are exceeding the pressure limits.
 
Even a Tightgroup starting load might be too much. I'd start with more like 2.6gns and work up. Assuming a burn at all it'll push the bullet out just fine. But it's a good idea to start with a load that you KNOW will not be enough to cycle the action.

Actually if you do this and load one round only in the magazine a sign that you're getting close will be when the recoil is strong enough to lock the slide back. No fancy expensive chronometer needed for this level of testing. Once you have a load that ejects and just barely locks the slide back then go up by .2 to .4 grains more until you have a nice snappy ejection that arcs out about 2 feet to the side before falling lower than the gun. At that point start examining the primers for any suggestions of imprinting the slide face finish on the primer and of the corners of the primers becoming more square. Either of these signs is a hint of too high a chamber pressure.
 
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