Bushing dies worth it?
- Thread starter Ducimus
- Start date
I think as you get more into the 6br you will find you want to play around with case prep a bit. Many use 2 sizing dies, one for partial neck sizing and one for full length. I use Wilson for my partial sizing (because I wanted to try them) but their dies do not full length size so I full length with Redding because you will need to bump the shoulder once in awhile. I'm not sure but your better dies may only be available in bushing style but either way I think you want to give yourself the option of playing with neck tension with the bushing dies. I don't shoot competition either but you still want to get the best from your gun.
Precision Handloading
One of the best deals (for the money spent) is the Lee 3 die set, full length, collet & seating die. I have found the collet die takes some time to develope the feel for using it, but it does do a nice job on necks. When properly used these dies will load straight shells with no more run out than the best Redding dies.
One of the best deals (for the money spent) is the Lee 3 die set, full length, collet & seating die. I have found the collet die takes some time to develope the feel for using it, but it does do a nice job on necks. When properly used these dies will load straight shells with no more run out than the best Redding dies.
Ducimus, there really isn't any need for multiple bushings unless you have a specially cut match chamber with an undersize neck diameter and only a few thou tolerance all the way around. If you have a standard SAAMI spec chamber, just get a decent set of dies that make "true" cartridges with less than .001 run out. The above mentioned dies for neck sizing only are fine.
If you are going to a match grade rifle, there is a lot more to it than meets the casual eye.
First, you have to find a gunsmith with a match reamer, no way in hell will he lend it out.
2nd, you must locate a match grade barrel from a proven maker. Canada has a couple. Ted Gaillard and Ron Smith. Mystic Player imports match grades from the US.
3rd, the gunsmith will use the stub of the barrel to cut you a partial chamber. The reason for this is to be able to measure the outside diameter of the neck so that you can figure out how much you have to turn down the outside diameter of your case necks so the necks will into the chamber with a loaded cartridge. Remember, with a match chamber, you are eliminating almost all SAAMI tolerances in order to keep everything as consistent as possible. Off the shelf cartidge casings are only a base and won't fit in a match chamber.
4th, once you have the chamber specs, the gunsmith should know them, you should get a set of Wilson dies with at least 3 different neck size bushings and an Arbor press. Your bench press, just won't do the job consistently.
5th, you need to get a consistent powder measure. When you are bench rest shooting, you load as you go. Usually only enough ammunition for each round.
I know some shooters that buy a bag of 50 cases They trim them to length, turn down the necks on a special mandrel, then weigh them and separate them into .2 grain weight difference piles. With such tight tolerances, it's not unusual to never have to buy any more brass for the match life of the barrel.
That is just the beginnig of it all. Go to a few matches, if you can find any and ask the guys to show you the basics. Leave them alone while they're in the middle of the match and they will be more than happy to show you the ropes.
If you are going to get a match rifle made up in 6ppc, by the time it's all together, look at spending a minimum of $2500 above the cost of the action. $3500 might get you to the bench to start. Match bullets aren't carried by most shops. Barnes makes some decent match bullets as does Sierra. The very best match bullets are made by specialty makers, sadly most are in the US.
If you want to get into the game a bit cheaper, look on the EE here for match grade rifles. There is a special section for them just under hunting rifles. Look for a complete package. More often than not, the rifles being disposed of are low round count (make sure) anything over 7-800 rounds is about half of the usable shooting life of the barrel. In many cases, the seller will be getting rid of the loading equipment related to the rifle as well.
You won't be shooting from a cheap wobbly rest or home made set of sand bags either. You just won't be able to compete on a winning level. You will need a sturdy, heavy, adjustable height forearm rest and a densely packed rear bag with bunny ears, made of leather and all of the bearing surfaces lined with cordura or teflon. Some guys even powder them. The fore end of the rest, should match the contour of the fore end of your rifle stock.
It goes on and on. It's an enormous learning curve. Once bitten by the accuracy bug, 1 inch groups are no longer satisfying. Neither are 1/2 inch groups, unless they are at 200 yards and then, once you've managed to do that a few times under perfect conditions, then you have to learn to dope the wind, mirage, sunshine, cloud cover, humidity etc. Be prepared to spend a lot of money, travel to different ranges, learn to clean your rifle properly, don't even consider a bore snake, and clean after every match round.
If you are going to a match grade rifle, there is a lot more to it than meets the casual eye.
First, you have to find a gunsmith with a match reamer, no way in hell will he lend it out.
2nd, you must locate a match grade barrel from a proven maker. Canada has a couple. Ted Gaillard and Ron Smith. Mystic Player imports match grades from the US.
3rd, the gunsmith will use the stub of the barrel to cut you a partial chamber. The reason for this is to be able to measure the outside diameter of the neck so that you can figure out how much you have to turn down the outside diameter of your case necks so the necks will into the chamber with a loaded cartridge. Remember, with a match chamber, you are eliminating almost all SAAMI tolerances in order to keep everything as consistent as possible. Off the shelf cartidge casings are only a base and won't fit in a match chamber.
4th, once you have the chamber specs, the gunsmith should know them, you should get a set of Wilson dies with at least 3 different neck size bushings and an Arbor press. Your bench press, just won't do the job consistently.
5th, you need to get a consistent powder measure. When you are bench rest shooting, you load as you go. Usually only enough ammunition for each round.
I know some shooters that buy a bag of 50 cases They trim them to length, turn down the necks on a special mandrel, then weigh them and separate them into .2 grain weight difference piles. With such tight tolerances, it's not unusual to never have to buy any more brass for the match life of the barrel.
That is just the beginnig of it all. Go to a few matches, if you can find any and ask the guys to show you the basics. Leave them alone while they're in the middle of the match and they will be more than happy to show you the ropes.
If you are going to get a match rifle made up in 6ppc, by the time it's all together, look at spending a minimum of $2500 above the cost of the action. $3500 might get you to the bench to start. Match bullets aren't carried by most shops. Barnes makes some decent match bullets as does Sierra. The very best match bullets are made by specialty makers, sadly most are in the US.
If you want to get into the game a bit cheaper, look on the EE here for match grade rifles. There is a special section for them just under hunting rifles. Look for a complete package. More often than not, the rifles being disposed of are low round count (make sure) anything over 7-800 rounds is about half of the usable shooting life of the barrel. In many cases, the seller will be getting rid of the loading equipment related to the rifle as well.
You won't be shooting from a cheap wobbly rest or home made set of sand bags either. You just won't be able to compete on a winning level. You will need a sturdy, heavy, adjustable height forearm rest and a densely packed rear bag with bunny ears, made of leather and all of the bearing surfaces lined with cordura or teflon. Some guys even powder them. The fore end of the rest, should match the contour of the fore end of your rifle stock.
It goes on and on. It's an enormous learning curve. Once bitten by the accuracy bug, 1 inch groups are no longer satisfying. Neither are 1/2 inch groups, unless they are at 200 yards and then, once you've managed to do that a few times under perfect conditions, then you have to learn to dope the wind, mirage, sunshine, cloud cover, humidity etc. Be prepared to spend a lot of money, travel to different ranges, learn to clean your rifle properly, don't even consider a bore snake, and clean after every match round.
Bearhunter thank you for the indepth response!
I already have a 700 sps on hand. I was just planning in having a gunsmith install a Kreiger barrel, bed the action and tune up the trigger. I was planning on having the chamber cut so I don't have to turn the necks. I've got some Lapua brass and Berger 95 gr VDL's to start with.
I already have a 700 sps on hand. I was just planning in having a gunsmith install a Kreiger barrel, bed the action and tune up the trigger. I was planning on having the chamber cut so I don't have to turn the necks. I've got some Lapua brass and Berger 95 gr VDL's to start with.
