Bushmaster XM15-E2S Muzzle Brake

7.62mm

7.62mm

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Some BBQ Joint, far....far...away!!!
Just wondering, has anyone removed one of these muzzle brakes/compensator before? The damn thing is loud as all get out, way more so than other AR's I have been around, especially to other close by shooters/spectators. It is not so bad being the shooter.

I tried going at the pin, albeit not to aggressively, and it didn't budge.

Any opinions, and are there any other Flash hider/brake/compensator options for this style of attachment method, if I am able to get it off, or am I looking at having it threaded. Keep in mind, that I want to be able to take it into the US for competitions, so can't physically make it shorter.

Thanks.

AR15-Muzzle-Brake.jpg



BTW. The pin is obviously tapered, and I was punching it out in the right direction.
 
Wouldn't Bushmaster be able to advise? I am sure they woould be of some help, even if to tell you that you're SOL. :)
 
Try using a heat gun to heat up the area around the drift pin nice and hot. Use a brass punch and heavy ball peen hammer to get the pin moving then the proper sized pin punch to remove it the rest of the way. A little penetrating oil left to seep into the hole for a little while might help if you figure there might be some corrosion in the hole. After the pin is out, if the suppressor is tough to turn off, again use heat and some more of the penetrating oil and perhaps find yourself a pair of soft jaw pliers. Good luck.
 
gaff said:
might be a tapered pin ? make sure your hitting the small end.
Click to expand...

He already acknowledged that.

I would suggest trying to press it out, using some of the techniques mentioned visa vis the oil etc.. The reason I suggest this, is that if you press it out you can do is slowly and begin to see it move. You can use your vise or a pair of good channel locks, in either case make a small jig (piece of wood or metal with a hole in it for the pin to go). I have had to do this for guitar repairs and it seems to work, saving brass and aluminum parts from too much harm. If the barrel is threaded as well, punching it out may create some "shavings" that could gum up the threads. Did your bushmaster not come with an exploded diagram of parts etc.? That may show how the pin actually should come out, and if the barrel is threaded.
 
I have the same barrel and muzzle and I remove it with puch

If you want thread the barrel I can do that (35 $), send me barrel and I remove your old muzzle in same time.

I have very nice YHM FS for 29.95 $

 
Prestwich said:
He already acknowledged that.

I would suggest trying to press it out, using some of the techniques mentioned visa vis the oil etc.. The reason I suggest this, is that if you press it out you can do is slowly and begin to see it move. You can use your vise or a pair of good channel locks, in either case make a small jig (piece of wood or metal with a hole in it for the pin to go). I have had to do this for guitar repairs and it seems to work, saving brass and aluminum parts from too much harm. If the barrel is threaded as well, punching it out may create some "shavings" that could gum up the threads. Did your bushmaster not come with an exploded diagram of parts etc.? That may show how the pin actually should come out, and if the barrel is threaded.
Click to expand...


Yeah, it did come with a schematic, but it shows threaded flash hiders, with crush washers. I purchased this new last year, so I think it has to permanently installed, due to the US export crap. I am just not sure what that means exactly. I have already bowed over a goodly sized brass punch trying to remove the pin.

Really wanted to know what is under the flash hider, is it threaded or pressed on and soldered, I sure don't see any signs of weld material or solder where the barrel and Comp. meet. Don't know if it is worthwhile for me to continue with the pin if it is just going to be a bigger pain to get the actual Comp. off.

I may try your suggesting with the vice if I can rig something up. Thanks for the response.
 
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