Bushnell Trophy Riflescope 1-6x24
- Thread starter 1rstEncountr
- Start date
Please do, mine is inbound, I also purchased the Burris QD mount for it.
Just came back from the range. The LPVO was on a 308, I used a cantilever mount. First, I wanna say I have lots of scopes, and some are « high end » 1500-2000$. I know, 1500-2000$ isn’t high end to some, but to me, it is. Anyways, I bought it to see how well it could perform as the price was more than reasonable for what you get. I have to say I am impress. It looks and feel very solid. The glass is plenty clear and made 200 yards shot easy. The only complain I have is for the magnification ring. When you turn it to go to an other magnification, it feels really weird, kinda like its broken (but it’s not)… if you can get over this « down » side, as I do, it’s a great LPVO for the price. I’d buy an other without hesitation.
rommelrommel
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
What's it like on 1x? Anywhere near true? These cheap ones never are imo.
Good to know. Shame about the magnification ring, how's the diopter adjustment?
So mine just came in, I've mounted it to the rifle and will sight it in this weekend. The magnification ring on mine is smooth throughout its range, the diopter while also smooth doesn't seem to have much of a practical adjustment to it? Glass is clear, and the 1x isn't magnified in the slightest that I can tell. Mine is mounted to a 5.56 rifle, so we'll see how long it lasts?
Update Re: sight-in.
I took my rig to the range today to sight in the Bushnell Trophy 1-6x24. The scope is mounted in a Burris AR signature QD P.E.P.R. with posi-align inserts and is mounted on a Tavor x95 (5.56 mm).
I was shooting two different brands of ammo. Blazer brass, .223, 55 grain, and PMC Tac X 5.56 also 55 grain.
The mount comes with several different plastic insulators where the scope sits in the rings and I have to admit I just don't understand their relevance. Something about angling the front of the scope down, and rear of the scope up? The plastic inserts are embossed with positive and negative degree increments -15, -10, -5, 0 +5, +10, +15. These insulators are in halves and can be mounted in various ways to alter how the scope is oriented in the mount. I set my scope with both rings on zero and called it good to go. I mention this because it may well be the cause of some issues I'm having?
As mentioned before, the 1x setting seems to be true to no magnification and I find the red dot at its high setting to be a true daylight brightness.
My initial 3 grouping rounds were shot 3 power @ 50 meters and was within 2.5 inches of each other but low and left. The turrets are 1/4 MOA and 8 clicks up and 4 clicks to the right had all subsequent rounds in the 10 ring. I switched ammo from the 5.56 I was shooting to the .223 and verified there was no difference in POI between the two ammo types. This was accomplished and verified within 20 rounds of ammunition and I was quite pleased with myself and my equipment.
I'm to understand that 5.56 zeros at 50M and again at 200m, so with my current settings I should be "on" at 200M. I took my 8" steel plate to the 200m range, set up and that's where everything gets weird.
The plate is painted hi vis orange and is fairly easy to see, but at 6 power the visual isn't crisp clear. Also, the eye relief becomes very unforgiving at this magnification. I was able to hit the plate, but not with regularity. I tried to adjust the diopter and the picture became slightly clearer after quite a bit of in and out with the adjuster but the eye relief was just miserable. The slightest movement of my head left or right back or forth would result in the sight picture shadowing. I thought perhaps the scope was set to far rearward so I moved it forward. No dice, this just resulted in me having to move my head forward. I would estimate that the advertised eye relief of 4 inches, is actually less than 2 inches at 6 power!? This had me thinking of Carton775 who said he was mounting his on a .308. If his eye relief is like mine, I'd be concerned shooting anything with .308 (or more) recoil as my eye had to be far too close to the scope.
With all of this moving the scope back and forward on the rail and my having to reposition my head, my shooting became quite inaccurate and I began missing the plate regularly. I then went back to 3 power where the sight picture was markedly clearer and the eye relief much more comfortable, but couldn't manage to hit the plate within 10 rounds or so, so I packed up and called it a day.
Guys, what am I doing wrong? Does the scope have to be canted as per the Burris inserts? Do I just suck? Is it normal for eye relief to shrink as the magnification goes up?
I took my rig to the range today to sight in the Bushnell Trophy 1-6x24. The scope is mounted in a Burris AR signature QD P.E.P.R. with posi-align inserts and is mounted on a Tavor x95 (5.56 mm).
I was shooting two different brands of ammo. Blazer brass, .223, 55 grain, and PMC Tac X 5.56 also 55 grain.
The mount comes with several different plastic insulators where the scope sits in the rings and I have to admit I just don't understand their relevance. Something about angling the front of the scope down, and rear of the scope up? The plastic inserts are embossed with positive and negative degree increments -15, -10, -5, 0 +5, +10, +15. These insulators are in halves and can be mounted in various ways to alter how the scope is oriented in the mount. I set my scope with both rings on zero and called it good to go. I mention this because it may well be the cause of some issues I'm having?
As mentioned before, the 1x setting seems to be true to no magnification and I find the red dot at its high setting to be a true daylight brightness.
My initial 3 grouping rounds were shot 3 power @ 50 meters and was within 2.5 inches of each other but low and left. The turrets are 1/4 MOA and 8 clicks up and 4 clicks to the right had all subsequent rounds in the 10 ring. I switched ammo from the 5.56 I was shooting to the .223 and verified there was no difference in POI between the two ammo types. This was accomplished and verified within 20 rounds of ammunition and I was quite pleased with myself and my equipment.
I'm to understand that 5.56 zeros at 50M and again at 200m, so with my current settings I should be "on" at 200M. I took my 8" steel plate to the 200m range, set up and that's where everything gets weird.
The plate is painted hi vis orange and is fairly easy to see, but at 6 power the visual isn't crisp clear. Also, the eye relief becomes very unforgiving at this magnification. I was able to hit the plate, but not with regularity. I tried to adjust the diopter and the picture became slightly clearer after quite a bit of in and out with the adjuster but the eye relief was just miserable. The slightest movement of my head left or right back or forth would result in the sight picture shadowing. I thought perhaps the scope was set to far rearward so I moved it forward. No dice, this just resulted in me having to move my head forward. I would estimate that the advertised eye relief of 4 inches, is actually less than 2 inches at 6 power!? This had me thinking of Carton775 who said he was mounting his on a .308. If his eye relief is like mine, I'd be concerned shooting anything with .308 (or more) recoil as my eye had to be far too close to the scope.
With all of this moving the scope back and forward on the rail and my having to reposition my head, my shooting became quite inaccurate and I began missing the plate regularly. I then went back to 3 power where the sight picture was markedly clearer and the eye relief much more comfortable, but couldn't manage to hit the plate within 10 rounds or so, so I packed up and called it a day.
Guys, what am I doing wrong? Does the scope have to be canted as per the Burris inserts? Do I just suck? Is it normal for eye relief to shrink as the magnification goes up?
OP - Just my opinion, but if you have a few more bucks maybe go a bit higher for better glass. If you're shooting at short range in good light you should be OK but better glass opens up to more conditions/distances.
P - The first thing is the diopter ring is to get the Most Clear/Sharp view of the reticle, looking against a plain white background is best. If adjusted correctly you shouldn't need to mess with it until your eyes change.
Second, with my 223 I zero at 100, and 200 is about 2" Low, meaning I aim 2" Higher that the Bull for hits. Donno where you got the 50-200 zero info. I have a Ruger American Standard so I feel good with ca 3" groups using a 6-18x50 Bushnell Engage Deploy-MOA tree in 'low' rings. You shouldn't need to be concerned with your adjustable rings unless you go for really long shots that your scope can't adjust for.
As for the 'short eye relief' that mostly comes from low-cost higher magnification scopes. I get that when i shoot high mag, too. Not a real issue with low-recoil, but my 308 makes me more careful.
Good luck with your adjustments.
As for the 'short' eye relief, that comes with low-end high mag scopes, it's OK for low-recoil - won't punch you out ;-)
P - The first thing is the diopter ring is to get the Most Clear/Sharp view of the reticle, looking against a plain white background is best. If adjusted correctly you shouldn't need to mess with it until your eyes change.
Second, with my 223 I zero at 100, and 200 is about 2" Low, meaning I aim 2" Higher that the Bull for hits. Donno where you got the 50-200 zero info. I have a Ruger American Standard so I feel good with ca 3" groups using a 6-18x50 Bushnell Engage Deploy-MOA tree in 'low' rings. You shouldn't need to be concerned with your adjustable rings unless you go for really long shots that your scope can't adjust for.
As for the 'short eye relief' that mostly comes from low-cost higher magnification scopes. I get that when i shoot high mag, too. Not a real issue with low-recoil, but my 308 makes me more careful.
Good luck with your adjustments.
As for the 'short' eye relief, that comes with low-end high mag scopes, it's OK for low-recoil - won't punch you out ;-)
Many thanks!
