Buying first .357 revolver... need a bit of guidance

My 686 6” was brand new. Shot like a dream and very accurate

I’ve read the 6” is the most accurate length for a 686 and 5” better balanced
 
The OP mentioned he wanted a stainless revolver so that rules out the new Model 19, strong as it may be. Perhaps if Smith comes out with a new 66, it would be a great option.

Seems like S&W just “somewhat” copied the Dan Wesson cylinder lock and barrel design/install concepts.

Being old school, I’d go with 6 inch 686-3 (6-shot, non MIM, no lock) or GP100 (6-shot, any year)

Where you been hiding lol? Smith and Wesson has a new 66 with 4.25" barrel, built exactly the same way as the new model 19.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-66

Tenda has them on sale

https://www.gotenda.com/shop/firearms/revolvers/smith-wesson-66-4-25-barrel-6-shot-357-magnum38-special/

 
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The S&W L (686) frame was designed for a steady diet of 357, and is the functional equal of the Ruger GP100. In 30 + years on the market, I have yet to see reports suggesting that L frames are not up to it. Early K frames had the issues.
 
The S&W L (686) frame was designed for a steady diet of 357, and is the functional equal of the Ruger GP100. In 30 + years on the market, I have yet to see reports suggesting that L frames are not up to it. Early K frames had the issues.

Can you show me something in writing by S&W noting this please ?
 
Here is a pic of the forcing cone of the new model 19 and 66. This is not the same as the original 19!! This is where the old 19's use to have problems, also notice the new lock up at front of the cylinder below barrel not at the end of ejecting rod like old guns. Below is my 1977 model 19. Notice the shave barrel at the bottom to clear cylinder, that's where they use to crack.

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Can you show me something in writing by S&W noting this please ?

It is no secret. This is what the company says https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-686 but I wouldn't take their word for it. Lots of feedback and articles out there accessible through google. Again, the platform has been out there for more than 30 years. Other than an early recall because of a firing pin problem, these things are standing up fine to heavy use. The new K frames may surprise as well.
 
My friend sold me his 686-3 that was fed several thousand mostly full power 357 magnums because it was used extensively in metallic silhouette back in the 80s/early 90s.

It had just came back from a tune-up job to tighten and re-time it when I bought it early this millennium. Still its cylinder lock up was not as tight as another 686-3, bought in almost new condition and was bank vault tight.

Not even close. You could feel the cylinder moving a couple of degrees at all six chambers at full lock up. However it was still very accurate, same as my almost brand new 686.

Have since sold back the loose but accurate 686 to my friend and kept the other one. Replaced the loose 686 with a GP100.

Since I rarely shoot full magnums, these two remaining 357s have stayed tight as new through at least a couple thousand rounds, each, mostly with my own reload/cast as 38 spl +p rounds.
 
This is Canada not USA, not like you can walk out in your backyard and shoot 5 box of 357 while you drink a beer. You have to do plenty of range time IMO to wear out any gun in Canada, besides everything eventually wears out, cars, bikes, trucks, etc where did it say a gun had to last forever? I go to the range fairly often, it's pretty much empty there and doubt I will ever wear out any gun unless I was into some serious competition. Hickok45 has said many times his first model29-2 has over 75,000 rounds through it and still going.
 
I opted for the 686+ over the GP100 only because I thought it felt better in my hands at the gun store, not so much the grip as pointability (is that a thing?) No opinion on which is better other than the S&W performs well. I shoot mostly .38 but also .357.

A bit of research and personal preference is my advice.
 
This is Canada not USA, not like you can walk out in your backyard and shoot 5 box of 357 while you drink a beer. You have to do plenty of range time IMO to wear out any gun in Canada, besides everything eventually wears out, cars, bikes, trucks, etc where did it say a gun had to last forever? I go to the range fairly often, it's pretty much empty there and doubt I will ever wear out any gun unless I was into some serious competition. Hickok45 has said many times his first model29-2 has over 75,000 rounds through it and still going.

I'll somewhat second this as well. I put 20,000 rounds through 2 Glocks when I had an office job and thought I might actually have time for IPSC. I'll testify that it takes A LOT of range time to use that much 40 in 2.5 years. I know the round counts because I bought 2 case lots of 10K 40 from Combat Masters. Still use the steel pails in the shop.

Of course I shot other guns as well, but to shoot a firearm to the point of wearing it out (not counting barrels in high velocity rifles LOL!) takes a considerable effort unless there is something inherently wrong with it.

I like the GP100, but in 357 I doubt I'd shoot one enough to be concerned about 5000 round reliability. I prefer the fit and handling of teh Model 19. I just need to buy one now. ;)
 
The reason I bought a GP100 was in 2008, I was in the Edmonton mall’s target range with my brother in law.
Rented a GP100 with 25 rds Magnum ammo. At the indoor range’s maximum distance probably 15 meters, I put all 25 rds double action into the 3 inch black bull eye.

I had to have a GP100 so upon return to Vancouver, I bought the last rosewood insert gripped GP on display at Reliable Gun. Served me well these last 10 yrs. I love the way my 686 looks and it’s trigger, but my GP100 might well be my favoured one between the two. It loves full magnums it’s more accurate with them than 38 spl.

BTW, I sent back my GP to the warranty Center because cylinder was binding. Apparently, headspace was on the tight side of tolerance so still within spec. They sent it back to me untouched, I think.

For functional reliability, use factory ammo or check reloaded ammo’s brass for proper headspace.
 
Thanks, the Model 627 V-Comp Is the one you speak of?

Just the 627, if you want a stainless gun. The V-Comp and the TRR8 are carbon steel and Scandium frames, respectively.

I shoot one one for steel challenge. It's a ###y beast :D

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The model 69 which is L frame 44 magnum also uses 2 piece barrel.

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For 357 / 38 spl I would say you should look at the S & W R8 or TRR8 (basically the same). I had a Ruger GP 100 and SW 686 (which were both lovely revolvers), but I found I wasn't shooting them much after I got the R8. Once you get the 8 shot R8, other 357's seem obsolete. The R8 is an 8 shot, and can use moonclips for competition and keeping your brass altogether.

The R8 also has a top picatinny rail where you can mount optics without having to interfere with the (adjustable) iron sights. You also get a rail on the bottom of the barrel if you want to add a light/laser. So I sold my 6 shooters and am happy with the R8/

Now, the R8 is about $500 more than the 686, but when you factor ammo costs over the years, this doesn't really amount to much.
 
I've got Rugers and a PC S&W :know you said you wanted stainless BUT I have an R8 ( scandium alloy ) which is a nice gun . I've shot a mix of 38 special and 357 magnum no problem so far but only about 1300 rounds so far. I'd get a V-Comp if I was buying a 357 magnum revolver at this point.
 
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