Buying first SVT40 What to look for?

[joelvca]

4 port brake is correct historically for 1942 rifle. 12 port is not correct with probably few exceptions.

I guess I have one of the exceptions - a refurbed 1942 Tula with no PU grooves in a serial-#-matching late/AVT-style stock (i.e. beefier but only one safety notch) with a 12-port muzzle brake and early-style barrel band with the sling swivel.

I've wondered if it is worth taking the muzzle extension off, cleaning if necessary, and applying copper anti-sieze before reassembling, to avoid ever having to take it off for cleaning, but to allow for reliable disassembly if it ever needs it.

Regards,
Joel

 

[nw mb]

...first, middle, last, rifling

 

[wbaad]

Update! So I purchased one last evening and I'm currently in the progress of completely disassembling the entire rifle, so no pictures yet. What I can tell you is that its 1942 Tula with a ATV stock and the bore is in good condition. I haven't cleaned the bore yet but after I removed the barrel from the stock I looked down the bore and it didn't look very dirty and the rifling looked in good shape. However I am disappointed with myself that I didn't choose one that had the 6 port muzzle brake! I don't hate the 4 port that's on mine but I definitely would have preferred the 6 port version. This leads me to my question: Can I simply find a 6 port muzzle brake and switch it out for my 4 port? Please let me know.

You absolutely can! you just have to find one. you have to heat the extension to relieve pressure on the wedge, support it very well and use a good slotted punch (flat blade screw driver shank) and drive out the wedge. It only goes in and out one way!(i forget which, but you can look it up). then its as simple as reversing the removal procedure. Its not the easiest job in the world but i have done it a couple times successfully to put the correct variation parts on the correct year rifles. without 2 rifle to switch them on it may be hard to find one in good shape. Remarkably I didn't have to adjust the front sight at all after doing this, but maybe I just got lucky!

 

[wbaad]

I guess I have one of the exceptions - a refurbed 1942 Tula with no PU grooves in a serial-#-matching late/AVT-style stock (i.e. beefier but only one safety notch) with a 12-port muzzle brake and early-style barrel band with the sling swivel.

I've wondered if it is worth taking the muzzle extension off, cleaning if necessary, and applying copper anti-sieze before reassembling, to avoid ever having to take it off for cleaning, but to allow for reliable disassembly if it ever needs it.
Regards,
Joel

When i took mine off it had an ample amount of cosmoline in the threads. the extension isn't torqued on so being seized isn't as much a concern.

 

[Horilka]

I guess I have one of the exceptions - a refurbed 1942 Tula with no PU grooves in a serial-#-matching late/AVT-style stock (i.e. beefier but only one safety notch) with a 12-port muzzle brake and early-style barrel band with the sling swivel.

No, yours is not exception. Yours is refurb and everything is possible with refurbs. But the original configuration rifle made in 1942 had 4 port brake, unless old 12 port was utilized during assembly. 4 port brake appeared on Podolsk rifles first in mid 1941, and then on Tula/Mednogorsk at the end of 1941 (though The Holy SVT Bible says beginning of 1942). That leaves little chances for 12 port to appear on 1942 rifle.

 

[762shooter]

762shooter: So yours is shooting low with the post screwed all the way in? Many things seem to affect the point of impact with these rifles, including, I think, the gas regulator setting. Strong up-pressure at the forend tip would probably make a difference and one easy way to do that is to add material to the inside of the lower guard ring (the barrel is supposed to rest on this and it is perfectly sized to fit the barrel). If yours is loose try building up the surface with that muffler repair epoxy (Steely). Shape it to the barrel by putting a layer of saran wrap around the barrel and squeezing it into the steely. You want it to conform nicely to the barrel so that it returns to exactly the same position after each shot. Aim for 7 or 8 lbs up-pressure. Worked well on one of mine and you can easily file out the steely if you want to change back. Since the lower guard usually is a poor fit on the forend tip I've also used a carefully shaped wood shim glued into the front of the forend which I believe to be a better approach but more time consuming.
milsurpo

Thanks!

 

[warrenlikesboats]

######## CHECK THE BORE !!!! ####### The first and only thing you need to check on an SVT 40... many of them are pitted from firing corrosive ammo throughout the war. Pitted SVT 40 barrels may still fire fire accurately, and may cycle fine (mine sure didn't) BUT they will be an ETERNAL headache to clean and keep from getting worse. A pitted SVT barrel will look dark and not reflect light when looking down the bore. I bought one like this from Wholesale Sports $249 , hated it, later bought a pristine one Corwin Arms $317, the barrel is NOT pitted... turned the wholesale gun into a parts SVT. good luck

 

[corwin-arms]

We should have some hand picked SVT 40 rifles for sale next week. All wood will be perfect plus barrels will all be inspected and the best taken for sale