BYF 43 all matching. plus some markings i'm not sure of?

there is almost no way of making out the last number but you an kind of make out the 4 on the floor plate. the front sight is marked 140 so I would bet the floor plate is too.
i'm wondering about how to put the stock take down disks on. I will probably just epoxy them to the stock but how the heck did they do them in the factory?
 
"I bet the floor plate is too" is the wrong outlook on a german mauser. There are known patterns and they don't often deviate from them. Especially in 43.
Cocking piece, front site, and the bolt body can all be 140. I've not seen a 140 floorplate.

To me your bolt and follower look like waa135.
 
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right now I am fitting the stock. what color of stain would you use? its made of birch and is really light. I got a color called gun stock but its pretty red. should the stock be light or dark?
 
The e/135 bolts are not that common and that's a good find. I don't know what to make of the follower.

As to the stain I'm not sure what color would be best. The original stock would have been either walnut, laminate, or elm (rare though) so you're not really going to be able to duplicate a genuine WW2 finish but I'd probably go somewhere in the middle myself. Not too dark or light.
 
Why not just get a real stock?
RC stocks can still be had easily, and for a decent price, even if it was the wrong waa, its still 100X better then repro.
 
i have never seen an RC that wasn't all beat to hell. I would consider it if I found one at a show for a good price but for now i'm going with the repro.if you know a place with RCs for sale let me know.
 
I just hit a bump with the stock. there is no retaining half ring for the upper hand guard on the rear sight base. I will show pics of what is missing and I will show a pic of it later. did any mauser rear sights not have a retaining ring? it diosn.t look like it was cut off or anything. i'll show the part:



 
It was sporterized and ground or cut off if that ring is missing. You can get another one and silver solder it back on.

In fact, I think someone here just did it not too long ago, Or sold one like that.
 
JTF# said:
i have never seen an RC that wasn't all beat to hell. I would consider it if I found one at a show for a good price but for now i'm going with the repro.if you know a place with RCs for sale let me know.
Click to expand...

Then you haven't seen many RC.
There are tons of RC in amazing condition. I've had RC where the wood was basically perfect except the stain.

To properly fix your issue you will need to replace the rear sight base. It is soldered on.
 
You'll have to find an e/135 sight sleeve and have it soldered on. Front sight has to be removed then the rear sight sleeve replaced and the front re-soldered on again. Not terribly hard to do, I did it myself on my depot build restoration, but you have to be very careful with the amount of heat applied so you don't damage the bluing and you also have to be careful about the solder flowing out onto the barrel where you don't want it. WhiteOut or soap stone will keep unwanted solder from flowing/sticking to the barrel outside of the sights.
 
I took your advice and I got an Ex Yugo german made stock. any advice before I take some nice out door shots of the rifle? I am going to put on a sight hood and hopefully find the cleaning rod I lost. what about the front band ? is there any way to get the blueing back on it? or just leave it? should the butt plate be blue or bare metal?
let me know what you guys think.




 
That looks pretty good. Now you need either an eagle-135 rear sight base, or an un-marked base, or in a pinch an eagle-655 base. Should not actually be hard to find. Check the online auction sites.
 
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