Calibrated Scopes

3-charlie

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Good day,

I may have previously asked this question. But I still can't get it threw my thick cranium. So here I go again ...

If you purchased a scope that is made for or works best for say .223 55gr, can the scope be used for other calibers?

Am I wrong to assume, before (decades ago) you just purchased a scope and zeroed it to the specific rifle it was being used on?

Any help / explanation would be gratefully excepted.

Thank you in advance,
 
I do not own a "caliber specific scope", so take that for what it is worth. A scope is a scope - the centre point of the cross hair would get sighted in to where the barrel is pointing, like we did for past 50 years. You might be concerned what is that scope's parallax setting, eye relief, whether internals will handle heavy recoil, etc.

My understanding is that a scope such as you describe might have addition marks within the reticle that claim to match up to the trajectory of that particular bullet, at some specific speed, for some specific height that the scope is mounted above the receiver. Those marks would match to any other bullet with similar trajectory. And if you load your .223 55 grain hotter or milder than the scope maker assumed, or use higher or lower rings, etc. it will not be precisely accurate, either.

But i could have that all wrong - obviously did not drink enough of the salesman's Kool Aid...
 
A scope can be zeroed with any caliber.
As far as range calibrations go, they may or may not be useful. They may or my not be useful with the specified caliber.
At best, they might be close.
There are way too many variations in ammunition, atmospheric conditions for preset graduations to be accurate.
It is basically necessary to shoot the rifle, and determine exactly what scope setting works. And change ammunition or weather, and those data will no longer be precise.
 
I heard the trick for them is to manipulate the zoom level to where the pre-marked lines align with what happens in reality. Personally I'd rather have constantly spaced elevation marks and just use some DOPE to figure out what's what.
 
Manipulating the zoom level pretty much only possible in a Second Focal Plane scope, I think?? - which tend to be the less expensive type - where the reticle changes size against the target image. And does nothing, whatsoever, for windage allowance. Have to see your own "splash" 2 or 3 feet down wind to realize how significant that issue really is, if you want to do longer range stuff. My brother and his friend are working on a "short cut" version of that with their SFP Zeiss scopes on their 300 Win Mags - shooting at distances and establishing what magnification the lower tip of the Duplex type reticle becomes the aiming point. Use laser range finder to get range - say 545 yards - look on little chart taped to rifle to gauge what magnification to turn scope to - to use the lower bar's tip as aiming point. Then figure out what you will do for wind. They have multiple, multiple times missed a vertical 4 x 8 sheet of plywood at 500 and 600 yards trying to figure out the wind call... But, between them, have taken wolf, white tail deer and elk at those kind of ranges.
 
that is generically called a BDC reticle... were popular, not much anymore cause there are WAY too many ballistics options that these type of reticles don't work well.

You can investigate the wonderful world of sfp vs ffp, mils vs moa, reticle types of all sorts... scope features, mag ranges, turrent styles, and on it goes.

Budget, application, any preferences... that will narrow down the field alot.

Happy to help if you want to get a scope.

Thanks

Jerry
 
Hi 3-Charlie,
Its not clear to me what you are asking regarding "calibrated", so perhaps you could clarify?

Are you asking about how to use the elevation and windage dials to zero a rifle? I am guessing you already know that you can zero your rifle at your chosen range (e.g. 100 yds/m, 200 yds/m) using these dials clicking up and down, left and right to find your zero point of impact? If you are asking about this there are there are many helpful YouTube videos showing you how to do this.

Are you asking about the hash marks, or dots, or thick-thin sections of the reticle cross hairs and how to calculate bullet drop compensation (BDC), or how to range a target with the reticle marks?
If this is your question, you need to test shoot specific ammo at specific distance and record point of impact relative to your aiming point. Then you will develop a data sheet on how to hold over or under a point using your reticle within specific distances, or use the turrets to dial up or down to achieve point of impact and aim matching.

For purposes of ranging a target, you can calculate what the reticle marks are doing (start with maximum magnification) by posting a scale image marked in inches at 100 yds/m, and take notes on what width or height is bracketed by the hash marks/dots at maximum and lower magnifications, and where the bullet hits.

"Point blank range" (for a centerfire cartridge and specific bullet weight in store bought ammo) is the distance within which you can hold the center of your reticle on the target and expect a +/- 3 inch group on your point of aim. With deer hunting cartridges this is typically within 0 to 230-300 yards depending on the many variables. If you reload you control and refine that distance precisely.

Its true that some reticle hash marks or dots are "designed" for a specific bullet drop trajectory at specified distances like 200, 300, 400 yards (zero'd at 100). But as Jerry points out these reticles are seldom accurate because of the many many variables involved, especially in the variance in ammo components (brass, primer, powder and bullet) and how the manufacturer changes these through time. Atmospherics also affects everything. BDC reticles are not reliable for nice round numbers of 100, 200, 300, 400 yards, etc. But you can use these reticle marks for generating data on actual trajectories and point of impact at various distances.

With some time invested in range work taking detailed notes on gridded targets (I like the shoot-and-see targets gridded in 1 inch grids), you can generate data on where your ammo hits relative to the reticle center and the hash marks/dots for calculating hold overs/unders at various distances.

Long story short as folks have mentioned above, you derive your bullet's trajectory, point of aim, point of impact, using the scope's turrets, and hold over/under distances based on your shooting results. Measure everything on the target results and write it down, and then you have it. Change your ammo or scope and you do it all over again. With practice it becomes quick and second nature. In fact it becomes so simple that reloaders constantly tinkering with differing loads using many bullets, powders and cartridges, rilfes and scopes do this dozens to hundreds of times per year, for fun, and we generate thick notebooks of data as we go. :)
 
Might be fine if you are hunting big game, shooting at an 8moa sized target at 100m. If you are talking target shooting, It's not even possible for it to be precise considering Zero for a certain ammo changes with just temperature!
 
A scope with multiple aim points or hash marks in the reticle may come set up for a particular trajectory but can be used for any one you choose to work with
Many cartridges can have a similar trajectory given different bullet weights and powder charges
The reticle markings just have to be verified for your particular load and a particular power setting on the scope.
Starting with the main mark at say 200 yds it is unlikely the others will fit to 300,400,500
but it may be 250 310 420 or 325 450 580 or or or
 
Years back I had a Leupold VXIII with the Boone & Crocket reticle. The long distance aiming points required time on the range to figure out where they were hitting as they are only intended as an approximate point of impact. I dialled my 35Whelen initially for 200 metres then found the first bar down was on for around 275 metres and the third was around 320 metres. Easy to drop on another rifle but then time had to spent at the range to identify the best zeroing distance and point of impact for the distance bars.

Jump ahead in time and most of my rifles have a Swarovski with the BRX reticle. Swarovski's online ballistics calculator seems to work quite well in identifying the distances for each bar, providing the right data is entered into the program. I can swap any of these scopes to a different rifle and run the ballistics for the cartridge. So far the reticle has worked very well for each rifle and has performed well at extended ranges.
 
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