Calipers and Scales

ryan_s

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I recently bought a 650 to load bulk 9mm and can’t seem to settle on what scale and calipers to buy. There seems to be too many options. Any suggestion? Pros and cons would help too!
 
Each tool has it’s purpose.
Yes i have a starett caliper and an FX120 scale, is it even close to required for a 9mm on a 650? No

When i didn’t load rifle yet, and only loaded 9mm/40SW on a dillon 650,
A canadian tire brand 20$ on sale caliper and RCBS 5-0-5 beam scale we’re more than good enough to set the 650 scale for an auto pistol cartridge.

Even if you got the best measuring equipment, your dillon progressive will have small variables in cartridge lenght, and powdering from a volumetric dillon dispenser will have it’s variances as well.
 
Thanks Marty! That is some good advise! Any suggests on a cheaper digital scale than? I was hoping on going that way instead of a beam scale.


Each tool has it’s purpose.
Yes i have a starett caliper and an FX120 scale, is it even close to required for a 9mm on a 650? No

When i didn’t load rifle yet, and only loaded 9mm/40SW on a dillon 650,
A canadian tire brand 20$ on sale caliper and RCBS 5-0-5 beam scale we’re more than good enough to set the 650 scale for an auto pistol cartridge.

Even if you got the best measuring equipment, your dillon progressive will have small variables in cartridge lenght, and powdering from a volumetric dillon dispenser will have it’s variances as well.
 
For caliper I work daily with a mitutoyo , starret is good , in cheaper but still decent Asimeto, there many other brand but some might be very cheap
 
Thanks Marty! That is some good advise! Any suggests on a cheaper digital scale than? I was hoping on going that way instead of a beam scale.

To be honest, if loading powder only from dillons powder hopper, i don’t see the need for electronic.
Inexpensive ones are too cheap, good ones are too expensive.
Remember this is for initial setup only, once you have your load you may spend up to 6 months without ever taking your scale out.

You may want to research gempro 250 if you really want electronic.
Don’t have any experience with it, but seen many posts praising it.
For your purpose it might fit the bill.
 
Inexpensive ones are too cheap, good ones are too expensive.

This is my thought on electronic scales also. If it's not dead-nuts accurate it's not worth spending money on.
I load for precision, not volume so my needs are slightly different.
I use an older 5-0-5 RCBS beam scale that I bought used. It's sensitive enough to react to a single kernel of extruded rifle powder, plus it cost me about $50 as part of a larger package deal. It's slower and doesn't have the "cool factor" of a digital scale, but it's reliable. Battery voltage, warm up time, and fluorescent lights don't change the way it reads. Cheap digitals, not so much IMO.

Where I do believe in spending more is on a good caliper. You can pick up a good quality Mitutoyo digital on Amazon for about $150. I use an older Mitutoyo dial caliper I've had for many years.
Vernier calipers are pretty much antiques these days. I already have antique eyes so they're not even on the list for old guys like me.
There are enough "unknown" elements for the newbie reloader without doubting the accuracy of your tools.
 
This is my thought on electronic scales also. If it's not dead-nuts accurate it's not worth spending money on.
I load for precision, not volume so my needs are slightly different.
I use an older 5-0-5 RCBS beam scale that I bought used. It's sensitive enough to react to a single kernel of extruded rifle powder, plus it cost me about $50 as part of a larger package deal. It's slower and doesn't have the "cool factor" of a digital scale, but it's reliable. Battery voltage, warm up time, and fluorescent lights don't change the way it reads. Cheap digitals, not so much IMO.

Where I do believe in spending more is on a good caliper. You can pick up a good quality Mitutoyo digital on Amazon for about $150. I use an older Mitutoyo dial caliper I've had for many years.
Vernier calipers are pretty much antiques these days. I already have antique eyes so they're not even on the list for old guys like me.
There are enough "unknown" elements for the newbie reloader without doubting the accuracy of your tools.


While i do agree with you for the most part,
OP is reloading 9mm volume ammo on a progressive dillon press.

There is no «#need#» for ultimate precision measurement tools.
Even if he’d drop 150$-200$ on a mitutoyo, the press will give a small variance in OAL negating the advantages of precision tools.
And with variances, it’s only pistol ammo. My SV infinity would still shoot under 1/1.5’’ when clamped in a rest at 50M.

OP, fun thing with beam scale, you will use it very rarely, only when calibrating press, if getting a quality electronic later for rifle, the beam is nice to have in a reload room for a long term no electricity situation. Perfect SHTF scale.
 
Battery voltage

this is the single biggest problem for any electronic measuring device, cheap callipers can fluctuate +/- .5mm based on voltage and scales +/- .5 gram. if you need to go cheap spend a couple bucks for a calibration weight and/or standard rod
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions! I really appreciate all the advice! I think I am going to go with a beam scale now, I will most likely get the Dillon eliminator but as for calipers I am still a bit unsure. I figure you buy once and cry once. I will eventually load for precision so I will get a set of Mitutoyos.
 
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions! I really appreciate all the advice! I think I am going to go with a beam scale now, I will most likely get the Dillon eliminator but as for calipers I am still a bit unsure.

For pistol get the cheap mastercraft caliper. They're good enough for pistols. I have one, and using a length rod (brought my caliper at work where we have all kind of expensive toys), I measured its accuracy, and it's more accurate than the SD of the ammos made in a typical progressive press. Just make sure you have a good supply of good batteries, cause these things don't warn you when the batteries are low but they mess up measurement.

On a side note, you don't even need a caliper if you do things properly. Normally you have to find the right OAL for your gun, and once you have, then your die is set correctly, so the caliper is just used to check, almost only to satisfy your curiosity, or make sure you're in the right ballpark (which you could do just visually by comparing with a commercial ammunition).
 
For pistol get the cheap mastercraft caliper. They're good enough for pistols. I have one, and using a length rod (brought my caliper at work where we have all kind of expensive toys), I measured its accuracy, and it's more accurate than the SD of the ammos made in a typical progressive press. Just make sure you have a good supply of good batteries, cause these things don't warn you when the batteries are low but they mess up measurement.

On a side note, you don't even need a caliper if you do things properly. Normally you have to find the right OAL for your gun, and once you have, then your die is set correctly, so the caliper is just used to check, almost only to satisfy your curiosity, or make sure you're in the right ballpark (which you could do just visually by comparing with a commercial ammunition).

+1
You are loading pistol on a progressive.
No need to ultra accurately as press will have bigger deviations.

On a side note, even with a starett caliper, i still own 2 mastercraft calipers.
Just purchased my 2nd one recently, when on sale for 20$ it’s hard to beat.
 
I used the Mitutoyo dial caliper at work for decades. It's dead accurate and lasts. Then, we got a bunch of new guys in the shop, always borrowing stuff. I took it home and got a cheap CTC one. Can't say it's the best, not by a long shot, but for the most part it does just fine. My biggest issue was that the damned thing would turn itself on if it got bumped in the tool box, even though it was in it's case, and the battery would be dead next time you wanted it. I finally just took the battery out when I wasn't using it. Could have been just that one too.
 
The old ones do not power up on their own
The new ones power up as soon as they move 0.5/1.0 thou
I got one of each, prefer the older model
 
The old ones do not power up on their own
The new ones power up as soon as they move 0.5/1.0 thou
I got one of each, prefer the older model

Yup, bought one of those new CT ones too and it is a PITA for sure. It works well is all I can say, if the battery is still running. Always some idiot re-inventing the wheel when it should be left alone. As an aside, I still use my dial, non-digital version quite often, and it works just fine, thank you. I also have Mitutoyo calipers and micrometers and highly recommend them. I think I would shed a tear or two and a lot of expletives if I accidentally dropped one though. If I dropped that new cheapo caliper, I'd pick it up and drop it in the trash and never give it another thought.
 
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