Can a Husqvarna barrel be re-bored?
- Thread starter Mad-Trapper
- Start date
Reboring a rifle barrel is much less expensive than rebarrelling, and the barrel is usually at least as accurate as the original bore. Often it is more accurate.
Part of the reason for this is that cutting the new bore stress relieves the barrel, at least that is the theory.
I have had several barrels rebored, two 30-30s to 38-55, a 270 to 9.3X62, 7mm Rem Mag to 358 Norma, and every one shot better than before!
Ted
Part of the reason for this is that cutting the new bore stress relieves the barrel, at least that is the theory.
I have had several barrels rebored, two 30-30s to 38-55, a 270 to 9.3X62, 7mm Rem Mag to 358 Norma, and every one shot better than before!
Ted
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Were they drilled/reamed out and then rifled, or were they relined with a liner?
If bored out and rifled, by who?
I spoke for a short while with Mr. Ron Smith, about the potential for a rebore on a barrel, and he said that he was game to try anything that I was willing to pay him for, but that it was hit or miss on whether any particular barrel would work out well or not. Either way, he got paid for his time and tools.
As it was very near the same cost as a barrel blank, it was clear enough to me, that a rebore was not worth the investment risk.
Relining is pretty basic stuff, compared to a full on rebore and rifle job.
Cheers
Trev
Relining is not recommended for anything other than very low pressure cartridges.
All of mine were rebored and then cut-rifled. The 30-30s were done by Al Petersen, the 270 by Les Bauska and the 7mm by Ron Smith for River Rat.
I also have experience with two 358 Wins that were rebored from 308 Win, both by Ron Smith. One is owned by my hunting buddy, Bert, and the other I own. Both rifles were done by Ron Smith and both shoot less than inch and a half groups with 250 gr Speer spitzers at 100 yd.
Don't worry about Ron's work. He is, without question, one of the best! The biggest problem you will have with him is getting him to do it. He is very busy, all the time.
Ted
All of mine were rebored and then cut-rifled. The 30-30s were done by Al Petersen, the 270 by Les Bauska and the 7mm by Ron Smith for River Rat.
I also have experience with two 358 Wins that were rebored from 308 Win, both by Ron Smith. One is owned by my hunting buddy, Bert, and the other I own. Both rifles were done by Ron Smith and both shoot less than inch and a half groups with 250 gr Speer spitzers at 100 yd.
Don't worry about Ron's work. He is, without question, one of the best! The biggest problem you will have with him is getting him to do it. He is very busy, all the time.
Ted
Even so, before rebarreling a HVA action, you must be aware that HVA used six different actions for their Hunting, or Commercial rifles, not all equal in strenght.
The first one, wich is the weakest, was the M94/96/38 used from 1927 to about 1945. These actions were commercially barelled (by HVA) only in 6.5X55, 9.3X57 and very few in 9.2X62. (they were called the Model 46 and 46A in 9.3X57, Model 46AN in 9.3X62 (they ALWAYS have ANTIOXYD stamped on the barrel) and Model 46B in 6.5X55). They are small ring actions, designed before the coming of High-Power calibers.
Second one, is the FN M98 of the "C" Type, a standard Mauser 98 design, with thumb notch. Used from 1937-1941. Model 146 was 9.3X57 and 246 was 9.3X62. After the war, when they became availlable again, they were also used, for a short period (1946 to, about 1949) for the series 640 in 8X57JS, 6.5X55, 9.3X62. Typically, these actions were used for calibers under the 55 000 PSI range)
Third action is the M94/96/38 with "solid wall" or sometimes called "Commercial M94" wich was still the small ring, M94 actions, without the thumb notch (but still featured the charger adaptor) made from 1944 - 1947 maybe even 48 in 8X57JS (model 648), 6.5X55 (model 646), 9.3X62 (model 649). They were ALSO called the 640 serie.
Fourth action is the FN M98 of the "H" Type (specifically designed for new, modern post WWII calibers (extensively used by FN, Weatherby, Sako, Browning, Marlin etc, etc) in the 60 000 PSI range). This was also used for the late 640's series (1950 to 1953), when they added the .220 Swift, .270 Win, and 30-06 Sprg, also for the 1000 and 1100 series (same calibers, 1950-1953) and for the 2104F series, in .270 Win, 1955-1956.
Fifth action is the 1600 series, also called HVA Improved Mauser, many calibers, including all the above calibers, plus the 358 Norma Magnum. Models included all 1600 and 1640 variations, 1651 (358 NM), 3000, 3100, 4000, 4100, 5000 variations (Tradewinds, US), 6000 and 7000. This action is of modern, small ring, high-power design. Made 1953-1967.
The last action, considered one of the most advanced of it's time, HVA did not make many, because they sold manufacturing rights to Carl Gustav FFV in 1970. This action is called the 1900 and is the only one of the push-feed type (vs all the others being "controlled-feed" A.K.A. Mauser) made by HVA. Carl Gustav series 8000 and 9000 are the ones using the 1900 action. The same action is now manufactured by Antonio Zoli and carries the 1900 series name (some rumours say that Carl-Gustav / HVA sold the machinery to Zoli against some trading exclusivity on the rifles, for Scandinavian countries http://www.zoli.it/index2.php?pagina=1cannarigata/az_1900/fucile.html).
The 1900 is certainely the strongest of all the HVA actions.
Hope this helps.
The first one, wich is the weakest, was the M94/96/38 used from 1927 to about 1945. These actions were commercially barelled (by HVA) only in 6.5X55, 9.3X57 and very few in 9.2X62. (they were called the Model 46 and 46A in 9.3X57, Model 46AN in 9.3X62 (they ALWAYS have ANTIOXYD stamped on the barrel) and Model 46B in 6.5X55). They are small ring actions, designed before the coming of High-Power calibers.
Second one, is the FN M98 of the "C" Type, a standard Mauser 98 design, with thumb notch. Used from 1937-1941. Model 146 was 9.3X57 and 246 was 9.3X62. After the war, when they became availlable again, they were also used, for a short period (1946 to, about 1949) for the series 640 in 8X57JS, 6.5X55, 9.3X62. Typically, these actions were used for calibers under the 55 000 PSI range)
Third action is the M94/96/38 with "solid wall" or sometimes called "Commercial M94" wich was still the small ring, M94 actions, without the thumb notch (but still featured the charger adaptor) made from 1944 - 1947 maybe even 48 in 8X57JS (model 648), 6.5X55 (model 646), 9.3X62 (model 649). They were ALSO called the 640 serie.
Fourth action is the FN M98 of the "H" Type (specifically designed for new, modern post WWII calibers (extensively used by FN, Weatherby, Sako, Browning, Marlin etc, etc) in the 60 000 PSI range). This was also used for the late 640's series (1950 to 1953), when they added the .220 Swift, .270 Win, and 30-06 Sprg, also for the 1000 and 1100 series (same calibers, 1950-1953) and for the 2104F series, in .270 Win, 1955-1956.
Fifth action is the 1600 series, also called HVA Improved Mauser, many calibers, including all the above calibers, plus the 358 Norma Magnum. Models included all 1600 and 1640 variations, 1651 (358 NM), 3000, 3100, 4000, 4100, 5000 variations (Tradewinds, US), 6000 and 7000. This action is of modern, small ring, high-power design. Made 1953-1967.
The last action, considered one of the most advanced of it's time, HVA did not make many, because they sold manufacturing rights to Carl Gustav FFV in 1970. This action is called the 1900 and is the only one of the push-feed type (vs all the others being "controlled-feed" A.K.A. Mauser) made by HVA. Carl Gustav series 8000 and 9000 are the ones using the 1900 action. The same action is now manufactured by Antonio Zoli and carries the 1900 series name (some rumours say that Carl-Gustav / HVA sold the machinery to Zoli against some trading exclusivity on the rifles, for Scandinavian countries http://www.zoli.it/index2.php?pagina=1cannarigata/az_1900/fucile.html).
The 1900 is certainely the strongest of all the HVA actions.
Hope this helps.
Great information on the HVAs, Baribal!
Trev, you are correct that reboring is almost the same price as a good quality barrel blank, but then you have the additional costs of threading and chambering, installing sights (if you want them), inletting and bedding to the stock, and rebluing.
It is ideal where you are trying to smarten up a rifle that is unique in its history, perhaps a family heirloom, or some other special feature, but has a bad bore. Just get the rebore job done, put it back into the stock, and go hunting!
Ted
Trev, you are correct that reboring is almost the same price as a good quality barrel blank, but then you have the additional costs of threading and chambering, installing sights (if you want them), inletting and bedding to the stock, and rebluing.
It is ideal where you are trying to smarten up a rifle that is unique in its history, perhaps a family heirloom, or some other special feature, but has a bad bore. Just get the rebore job done, put it back into the stock, and go hunting!
Ted
I have a 99 Savage which was rebored from .308 to .358 by Ron Smith...took a while, but it's a better shooter than I am, and I'm very pleased with it. For me, it was a fair bit cheaper than going to a rebarrel for all the reasons already mentioned by Why not.
Baribal...another thanks for all the HVA info. It helped me further identify my 640 series 30'06. I even printed it off for future reference.
Baribal...another thanks for all the HVA info. It helped me further identify my 640 series 30'06. I even printed it off for future reference.
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Sunray, you have obviously never had a rebore job done, or have any idea what it costs.
Ron Smith, who is one of the best in North America, will rebore, ream, rifle, chamber and headspace a barrel for you for less than $300, and that includes the infamous GST. Others do the same for around the same price or a bit less.
You can get any twist you want, including gain twist, with which River Rat had him do when he had the 7mm rebored to 358 Norma Mag. That rifle is a Husqvarna, by the way, and gets over 2900 fps with 250 gr bullets from the 1:30 to 1:14 twist, and puts them into well under one inch groups at that velocity, all day long every day.
Ted
Ron Smith, who is one of the best in North America, will rebore, ream, rifle, chamber and headspace a barrel for you for less than $300, and that includes the infamous GST.
Others do the same for around the same price or a bit less.You can get any twist you want, including gain twist, with which River Rat had him do when he had the 7mm rebored to 358 Norma Mag. That rifle is a Husqvarna, by the way, and gets over 2900 fps with 250 gr bullets from the 1:30 to 1:14 twist, and puts them into well under one inch groups at that velocity, all day long every day.
Ted
Yes, Why Not?,
FN, when they redesigned the action for the 60 000 PSI range (early "50s), tried to find a way to also make the actions availlable in both left and right bolt handle configuration. To do so, they simply cut the extractor raceway (opposed to the left lug raceway) on both sides (wich does not interfer with the lug, anyways). This made also machining less labourious to them.
Then, that's the action they used for the NATO trials (together with the FN-FAL) as their bolt action line. Unfortunately, the military bolt-action days were almost gone.
New steel alloys were also tried/used to make the action (as opposed as low carbon, low alloy steel used on previous actions).
That is the action that Mr. Weatherby choose to build his first commercial rifles. The only "problem" with these, is the fact they were made for "standard lenght", by means the 30-06.
I'll try to post some pics for the benefit of the readers.
FN, when they redesigned the action for the 60 000 PSI range (early "50s), tried to find a way to also make the actions availlable in both left and right bolt handle configuration. To do so, they simply cut the extractor raceway (opposed to the left lug raceway) on both sides (wich does not interfer with the lug, anyways). This made also machining less labourious to them.
Then, that's the action they used for the NATO trials (together with the FN-FAL) as their bolt action line. Unfortunately, the military bolt-action days were almost gone.
New steel alloys were also tried/used to make the action (as opposed as low carbon, low alloy steel used on previous actions).
That is the action that Mr. Weatherby choose to build his first commercial rifles. The only "problem" with these, is the fact they were made for "standard lenght", by means the 30-06.
I'll try to post some pics for the benefit of the readers.
So, Baribal, can you help me out with this?....my Husky '06: serial# 128###, "HUSQVARNA VAPENFABRIKS AB. 30-06 U.S." with a 45 degree safety, 24" barrel, hooded front site, factory (I believe) d&t, in a dark stained and checkered beech stock (no cheek piece)...I've tentatively identified as FN M98, "H" type...late 640 series? Or could it be the 1000 or 1100 series?
Icedog,
can't you post some pics?
Your rifle was made, for sure, in 1951. Now, all HVA's models from that era had the 600mm barrel. Most, were hooded ramped, and some models, lower end, were stocked with beech (lower does not mean it's not valuable, the metal parts and blue, plus general quality are the same, it is only variant of the model). Because you say beech, I am enclined to say you have a model 640. I would guess, without seing it, it looks like being a "H" Type action. But since 1951 is kindof crossover year, it may also be a "C" type.
So, to be certain, we have to look at the left side of the receiver, see below;
I don't know if this is clear, but anyways, if one does not understand it well, I'll try to explain it in a different way.
can't you post some pics?
Your rifle was made, for sure, in 1951. Now, all HVA's models from that era had the 600mm barrel. Most, were hooded ramped, and some models, lower end, were stocked with beech (lower does not mean it's not valuable, the metal parts and blue, plus general quality are the same, it is only variant of the model). Because you say beech, I am enclined to say you have a model 640. I would guess, without seing it, it looks like being a "H" Type action. But since 1951 is kindof crossover year, it may also be a "C" type.
So, to be certain, we have to look at the left side of the receiver, see below;
I don't know if this is clear, but anyways, if one does not understand it well, I'll try to explain it in a different way.
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- Location
- In the Badlands of Alberta
Ice Dog,I've drooled over your gun. It sure has a nice piece of wood on it. I'd not think it was beech though.
Baribal,from what I see on the "C" there is a partial ring of steel where the barrel meets the receiver in front of the lug raceways. The "H" does not have this ring. Correct?
Baribal,from what I see on the "C" there is a partial ring of steel where the barrel meets the receiver in front of the lug raceways. The "H" does not have this ring. Correct?
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I'm assuming from Woodbeef's interest that it may be my Husky he's shared pics of. I'd certainly be pleased if the stock was some sort of walnut rather than beech, but it just didn't look like any walnut I'd ever seen. Unfortunately, both my computer and I are, as they say, "old technology"...so I was only able to get one of the photos you posted, and a couple nondescript slivers of color. Also, in order for me to send or post other pics, I need to enlist the aid and hardware of one of my sons who's not around at the moment. Anyway, I looked in at where the barrel meets the reciever, and what I saw looked pretty much like the photo which you labelled as an "H" type 98 FN Mauser...with the cutout at the top/or the extra, "not cutout" at the bottom of the barrel Your patience and your efforts to educate me are much appreciated!
