can a lead filled barrel be restored?
- Thread starter PCB
- Start date
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As mentioned, you can use heat to melt the lead out of the barrel. Pure lead melts at under 625 degrees Fahrenheit but you have to be VERY CAREFUL not to overheat the barrel. The melting temperature can be a bit higher if a solder or a lead alloy was used.
Make sure you have a container to catch the lead in. If it hits a solid surface it will splatter and severely burn you. Disassemble the rifle and put it with the receiver up at about a 45 degree angle, then heat from the muzzle, gradually progressing upwards toward the breech end. Try NOT to heat the receiver of the rifle too much,. You have not said what kind of Milsurp you have, but be warned that some of these rifles have the sights soldered on and a bit of excess heat in that area can loosen the sight or even make it come off the barrel.
Once you get most of the lead out of the barrel, STOP heating it. There will still be some lead in the grooves of the rifling and you should be able to remove that with a good cleaning rod and a "tornado" type cleaning brush, followed by a stiff stainless steel brush. There are some products available to promote lead removal in barrels and at this point, you can use them to further clean the barrel.
The big thing is not to overheat the barrel when you are doing this.
As mentioned, you can use heat to melt the lead out of the barrel. Pure lead melts at under 625 degrees Fahrenheit but you have to be VERY CAREFUL not to overheat the barrel. The melting temperature can be a bit higher if a solder or a lead alloy was used.
Make sure you have a container to catch the lead in. If it hits a solid surface it will splatter and severely burn you. Disassemble the rifle and put it with the receiver up at about a 45 degree angle, then heat from the muzzle, gradually progressing upwards toward the breech end. Try NOT to heat the receiver of the rifle too much,. You have not said what kind of Milsurp you have, but be warned that some of these rifles have the sights soldered on and a bit of excess heat in that area can loosen the sight or even make it come off the barrel.
Once you get most of the lead out of the barrel, STOP heating it. There will still be some lead in the grooves of the rifling and you should be able to remove that with a good cleaning rod and a "tornado" type cleaning brush, followed by a stiff stainless steel brush. There are some products available to promote lead removal in barrels and at this point, you can use them to further clean the barrel.
The big thing is not to overheat the barrel when you are doing this.
DEFINITELY worth fixing up. Those things are RARE
Is this the one with the separate action and grenade launching barrel attached to the rifle barrel? If so, the rifle is designed to use the same bolt, switching it back and forth when the usage changes from bullets to grenades.
POST A PICTURE. Many people here have not even seen one of these little goodies. If it is in good shape, it might be wise to take it to a COMPETENT gunsmith and get his opinion. These rifles are Legal to own so be aware of that in case someone tries to B.S. you on that. It might cost you a bit of money but it will be worth it in the long run because of the end value of this rifle variant.
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Haven't purchased it yet, I wanted to check with you folks before deciding. I hate neutered weapons. Soon as I get it home I'll post some pictures. Yes it its the unit that shares a bolt between actions. After handling it I can understand why it didn't last.
Any sites worth looking up to find values for rifles. I have an option on what I think is a Swiss 1911 and a MLe 1907/15 Descent Belleville. I know nothing about these rifles or there values.
Any sites worth looking up to find values for rifles. I have an option on what I think is a Swiss 1911 and a MLe 1907/15 Descent Belleville. I know nothing about these rifles or there values.
Lee Enfield
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Republic of Alberta
Mercury will take the lead out too without damaging the barrel or action
As mentioned, mercury will do it. The really important part is to not get melting lead or mercury anywhere near a drain. Both are toxic.
Lead melts at 630 F. Steel that is yellow hot is about 430F. That's enough to take out some temper.
Lead melts at 630 F. Steel that is yellow hot is about 430F. That's enough to take out some temper.
burnt_servo
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- right in the middle of b.c.
be aware a wiff of mercury vapor will kill you ..... sometimes within hours .
and mercury starts to vaporise at room temp.
and mercury starts to vaporise at room temp.
Halger280HVMag
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- B.C. XMU Local .454
Steel at yellow heat is 1093-1258 C.
Steel temper has no reason to be affected at lead melting temps.
Steel temper has no reason to be affected at lead melting temps.
You are going to get someone killed one of these days with your false information......
430F for yellow hot? UH, NO! Yellow hot is right before WHITE HOT which is well beyond 2,000F! Even dark red is about 1,000F!
I would only attempt this with an industrial oven and a fume extractor...
Do yourself a favour and take the barrel to a competent gunsmith for advice and assistance.
Correct on that one, Best to do it outside with you being upwind of it.
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It is best not to screw around with Mercury when there are better options available. I am sure that PCB is well aware of the danger of fire and heat on chemical compounds, but unfortunately some of the idiot ideas and false information gets on these Forums. A new person who has not had experience with some of this stuff then tries it with unfortunate results.
But it must be right --it was posted on the Internet.
Maybe "Google" mercury poisoning on that same Internet and see what affects it can have on a human being.
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It is best not to screw around with Mercury when there are better options available. I am sure that PCB is well aware of the danger of fire and heat on chemical compounds, but unfortunately some of the idiot ideas and false information gets on these Forums. A new person who has not had experience with some of this stuff then tries it with unfortunate results.
But it must be right --it was posted on the Internet.
Maybe "Google" mercury poisoning on that same Internet and see what affects it can have on a human being.
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Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
Not yellow HOT. Bare steel forms a Straw colored oxide layer at ~430F, but that is far too low to affect temper on all but the hardest of hardened steels. We are also heating a barrel, and barrel steel is usually annealed or normalized, neither of which harden enough for you to have issues with temper. I would NOT apply any heat to either the bolt or receiver unless it is absolutely necessary.
