can drilled and tapped holes get filled?
- Thread starter louthepou
- Start date
NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
Don't forget to loc-tite them in too.
NS
NS
fat tony
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I have heard that some people just use bolts(or screws) of the right size that have been tinned, you clean out the threaded holes good and heat her up and screw them in and cut them off flush, might require a measure of skill though and probably would need some solder from Brownells you can blue, I saw this in I think it was Home Shop Machinist magazine a while back.
fat tony
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I don't know, I would guess to make it more solid in there. 
from what I recall the 'scenario' was someone drilled and tapped the wrong holes for scope bases, and they wanted to be able to fill the holes and start over again.
from what I recall the 'scenario' was someone drilled and tapped the wrong holes for scope bases, and they wanted to be able to fill the holes and start over again.
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An old way that is equal to loctite.
I use a longer screw to put in the hole, that is it will bottom out before the head is hitting the receiver of stripper clip bridge. I usually wrap the area in tape to protect it from the hacksaw or jewelers saw, then I cut it off. Before I file, I peen the screw down into the hole and file. You will get a better fill if you do this around the edges (some day I'll start to take picts of the work I do..). Take your time, use the proper tools, you will need to touch up some the the blued area.
If it is parke'd, use plugs, but get them all the same type. There are headless plugs and there are plugs with a very small head.
just a few thoughts
Pete
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When filling the hole with a screw, them fileing it flush, there is usually a half moon section where the thread has nothing to cover or support it. I have found that it is better to leave about 1/16 inch of the screw proud and then peen it over with a small hammer. Then file it flush.
This serves two purposes, the first is for cosmetic reasons, as it completely fills the threads and can't be seen after fileing it down. It also makes it very easy to refinish without blemishes.
The second reason is it literally welds the screw in place and it won't ever back out or rise above the receiver with rapid fire temperature changes.
bearhunter
This serves two purposes, the first is for cosmetic reasons, as it completely fills the threads and can't be seen after fileing it down. It also makes it very easy to refinish without blemishes.
The second reason is it literally welds the screw in place and it won't ever back out or rise above the receiver with rapid fire temperature changes.
bearhunter
If it's a common thread size and all you want to do is fill the hole then use an allen head set screw with some Loctite. If you want to finish this repair then use a small dab of JBWeld into the top of the set screw, let harden and file to finish.
This repair can be parkerized, painted or blued.
This repair can be parkerized, painted or blued.
Before I send you running off for the bottle I need to edit that post to reflect "hot bluing". Cold blue solution may or may not match the receiver, bit of a crap shoot there. You may get lucky with multiple applications depending on whose cold blue solution you use. I've always had mine hot blued or parkerized to refinish.
Hi guys,
I may get my hands on a Jungle No5 Lee Enfield, but it has been drilled and tapped (
Thanks for any tip!
Lou
Jason at Gunco in Nepean ON has done this for me. Basically he screwed plugs into the holes, welded over them then blued the receiver.
Some good ideas in this thread.
JB Weld will not take blueing or parkerising due to it containing some plastic.
After any of these ideas, trying to reblue the repair and expecting it be invisible...no matter how hard you try...
It can be pretty good but under close inspection...
No way around that.
If you are satisfied with little dots where the plugging screws are, install them mechanically. A hole with a screw plug in it is more unobtrusive than a hole. If you want them to disappear, the welding method is the way to go. BUT, this has to be done by an expert. And refinishing will be necessary.
Does this No. 5 rifle have a Suncorite finish? One of the modern spray on finishes can look pretty close.
Then there is the issue of cost. On a garden variety No. 5, the cost of professional restoration would not be justified, and installing filler plugs would make sense. Done cleanly, and then coated to simulate Suncorite, the repairs would not be too obvious.
