Can Original Bakelite/Fake Wood buttstock be refinished
- Thread starter st1264
- Start date
Which is also a form of bakelite.
Not quite. Wood flour filler and wood chips that provide the structure aren't exactly the same and I don't think there's any way you could call CZ furniture "plastic".
Bakelite (play /ˈbeɪkɨlaɪt/ US dict: bāk′(ə)līt), or polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride, is an early plastic. It is a thermosetting phenol formaldehyde resin, formed from an elimination reaction of phenol with formaldehyde, usually with a wood flour filler. It was developed in 1907 by Belgian chemist Leo Baekeland.
Bakelite (play /ˈbeɪkɨlaɪt/ US dict: bāk′(ə)līt), or polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride, is an early plastic. It is a thermosetting phenol formaldehyde resin, formed from an elimination reaction of phenol with formaldehyde, usually with a wood flour filler. It was developed in 1907 by Belgian chemist Leo Baekeland.
sand smooth and tru-oil makes a very big difference on beaver barf. The tru-oil makes the red resin a nice dark brown and the wood chips blonde. It gives more contrast between the 2 colours and makes the wood pop a little more. You can leave it glossy, but I prefer to matte it down with fine steel wool for a very subdued improvement over stock.
x2. Not Bakelite, any more than playdough is plastique. Resin and wood chips. Bakelite would be a terrible choice, as it is violently flameable.
I degreased then washed with hot water then I sanded all the seams and rings and whatknot outa mine (washed again) then applied probibly close to 10 coats of krylon sanding ocasionaly between coats. I let it set for a week or so then did 3 more coats.
seems to be holding up ok as i've taken it to the range twice sine doing this and have ~ 300 round through it.
I think the prep and the 10 light coats make a huge difference in how your Krylon outcome will be. if you just paint it the oils in it will bleed through.
seems to be holding up ok as i've taken it to the range twice sine doing this and have ~ 300 round through it.
I think the prep and the 10 light coats make a huge difference in how your Krylon outcome will be. if you just paint it the oils in it will bleed through.
I degreased then washed with hot water then I sanded all the seams and rings and whatknot outa mine (washed again) then applied probibly close to 10 coats of krylon sanding ocasionaly between coats. I let it set for a week or so then did 3 more coats.
seems to be holding up ok as i've taken it to the range twice sine doing this and have ~ 300 round through it.
I think the prep and the 10 light coats make a huge difference in how your Krylon outcome will be. if you just paint it the oils in it will bleed through.
That looks great! Thanks, you just answered my question!
Bulgarian, Polish, Romanian, East German... Kalashnikovs used Bakelite furniture throughout, and not flammable as you have mentioned.
Back to the OPs question, lightly sand it down to remove dirt and scratches, then polish with your favourite buffing compound, apply clear coat varnish to add protection and shine.
I've seen the bedliner on a norc m14 stock and I didn't like to look of it. It was to shiny for me. I prefer something more matte. What brand did you use? How's it look?
You're definately right about the durability though. My buddy with the bedliner stock has it in getting arma-coated right now. He just got an email from them saying that it's going to take a lot longer than expected because they are having a hell of a time sandblasting the old bedliner off.
