Can somebody explain shotgun choke types to me ?

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RobSmith

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Sure they talked about this during the PAL course/tests, and I memorized the contents of the book so I could pass the (expletive deleted) course.

That being said I'm not a scattergun guy, I'm a rifle guy, so even though I get the "general idea" behind those cryptic-sounding names, of which there seem to be about a gazillion and a half, what do they mean in the "real world" ? What sort of pattern sizes should I expect from the different choke types at "typical" duck/waterfowl hunting ranges (I <guess> about 30 yards and less) ?

I admit that I've taken a long hard, look at possibly buying my first (and only) shotgun either later this year or early next year. I'm just in love with the new Remington 870 "tactical" shotguns, specifically the one with the Knoxx stock (the pictures look damned good anyway), wether any of them can be found in Canada is another story though. The thing would mostly be used to make noise at the range and <maybe> go out hunting once a year, so i'd be mostly buying for looks .... It comes with an "improved cylinder" choke according to Remington's catalog, and that stuff is all greek to me....:redface:
 
Taken from the Rem Chokes page:

Super-Full and Extra-Full Chokes: "The gobbler getters." Specialized chokes with extra-tight constrictions and the densest patterns — ideally suited for the head shots necessary in turkey hunting.
Full Choke: Tight constriction for dense pattern (approximately 70% of a shell's total pellets in a 30" circle at 40 yards). Best for trap shooting, pass shooting waterfowl, turkey hunting and shooting buckshot loads.
Modified Choke: Less constriction than full choke (approximately 60% of a shell's total pellets in a 30" circle at 40 yards). Excellent for all-around hunting of waterfowl, long-range flushing upland birds (such as late-season pheasant and sharptail grouse) as well as other small game. Also used for trap shooting.
Improved Cylinder Choke: Even less constriction than modified (approximately 50% of a shell's total pellets in a 30" circle at 40 yards). Ideal for close-in small game shooting, upland bird hunting (such as quail, grouse and pheasant) as well as hunting waterfowl close over decoys. Rifled slugs also perform very well from this choke.
Cylinder Bore: No constriction (approximately 40% of a shell's total pellets in a 30" circle at 40 yards). Most often used by law enforcement for service shotguns.
Skeet Choke: a specialty choke (approximately 50% of a shell's total pellets in a 30" circle at 25 yards) designed to deliver optimum patterns for close-range skeet shooting.

-Rohann
 
well id say the common choke sizes are:

cylinder
improved cylinder
modified
full
extra full

yes there are more sizes but these are the main ones. cylinder is for short range shooting typically at fast targets such as for rabbits and grouse where shots are typically under 20-25 yards.

modified is what alot of people use when they are hunting because its basically the middle choke so its ok for short as well as long but not great for either.

extra full is basically for turkey or other cases where you want tight patterns.

another thing to consider is sometimes a looser choke will give a tighter pattern such as when shooting buckshot and steel. changing the choke can also effect the accuracy of slugs in your gun.

there are charts that show how effective each choke is at different ranges. id also like to add that there is a choke that actually opens up rather than constricting. must be for real close shooting?
 
The choke you choose and the shotgun you use should be based on conditions...you talk about hunting waterfowl, which require steel shot and most new shotguns are O.K. for steel shot up to modified only, some are o.k. with all chokes, they make extended choke tubes especially for steel!! Study the guns and chokes avail. for your application ie: a "tactical" shotgun would be a liability in the duck blind!
 
Here are a couple of links that you might find helpful in addition to the very good posts above.

This one is quite detailed and pretty good with comparisons between English and North American standards.

http://www.ssaa.org.au/newssaa/101-StoriesReviews/shotguns/chokes.html

This is from chuckhawks. I'm no fan of his but he takes his information from Stan Baker's book and Baker was one of the preeminent shotgun barrel makers in North America.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/shotgun_chokes.htm

The only thing I'd add is that it doesn't matter what the choke says on the side or even what the constriction is. The only way to find out how your choke works in your gun with your ammunition is to pattern it.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm guessing a 'tactical' shotgun is set up to be shot like a rifle, correct? That'll work for slugs at large stationary targets, but will be a severe detriment to wingshooting small, fast-flying objects. If you're looking for a 12 gauge rifle, a 'tactical' setup is fine. But it is not the right tool for the job if you're after birds or clays.
 
Grouse man said it best re: tactical shotgun in duck blind...also a safety concern in close quarters with others in the duck blind!!
 
I would go with the manufacturers recommendation...it depends on the mat'l. and ext. or not! It has been a rule of thumb that you don't use steel in a full choke barrel, however some manufacturers are complicating things by calling some chokes full-steel and it is really just a mod. choke that patterns like a full choke because of the steel shot...go figure!!
 
Claybuster said:
The only way to find out how your choke works in your gun with your ammunition is to pattern it.
Click to expand...

There's the best advice you've received so far. The % of pellets in a 30" circle at 40 yards and similar benchmarks are generalizations for the sake of comparison. In reality, two different loads through the same gun with the same choke can yield differing results.

Factors affecting patterns:

Choke, load, crimp, size of shot, gauge, distance, type of shot (lead, steel, bismuth, or tungsten matrix), shot cup design, and many more.

This doesn't take into account wind or type of shooting. You'll get a totally different pattern stationary shooting than what you get swinging through a target, such as with wing shooting (shot string).

Pattern your gun. You'll be amazed at what you can learn. Besides, it's another excuse to shoot and lots of fun, if you don't treat it like work.

What choke to use with steel shot depends on whether the gun and choke tubes were designed to be used with steel shot. There are work arounds but, for my money, if the gun wasn't proofed for steel, use bismuth or tunsten matrix.

SS
 
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ben hunchak said:
Grouse man said it best re: tactical shotgun in duck blind...also a safety concern in close quarters with others in the duck blind!!
Click to expand...

Uh, why? How is having a 'tactical' shotgun in a duck blind a safety concern?

If you treat it like any other shotgun, how is it inherently more dangerous???
 
Uh, why? How is having a 'tactical' shotgun in a duck blind a safety concern?

If you treat it like any other shotgun, how is it inherently more dangerous???
Click to expand...

Compared to longer guns I find that short barreled shotguns require more attention to muzzle control in the tight confines of a blind or if being used for clay shooting.

I own a 14" gun that I shoot skeet with occasionally. It's easier to inadvertently point the barrel in the wrong direction with it than with my 32" over/under or more 30" semi-auto.

I wouldn't take a short gun duck hunting and wouldn't share a blind with someone using one. Also, short guns are much louder than long barreled guns and loud guns make you unpopular in the blind.;)
 
Claybuster said:
Compared to longer guns I find that short barreled shotguns require more attention to muzzle control in the tight confines of a blind or if being used for clay shooting.

I own a 14" gun that I shoot skeet with occasionally. It's easier to inadvertently point the barrel in the wrong direction with it than with my 32" over/under or more 30" semi-auto.

I wouldn't take a short gun duck hunting and wouldn't share a blind with someone using one. Also, short guns are much louder than long barreled guns and loud guns make you unpopular in the blind.;)
Click to expand...

Alright... I guess that makes a bit of sense. It's not inherently unsafe, it's just easier to 'make a mistake' as far as muzzle control goes...

In part, I was merely challenging what I perceived to be an 'anti-black-gun' bias by 'ben hunchak'... :D

If you look at his other posts, it's apparent that he's an experienced hunter, but his favorite handgun cartridge is a .45LC... obviously, he's very old... and most of them like hunting guns only... ;) haha just playin with ya Ben!!!
 
I started trap with my Maverick 88 and it's original 18.5" cylinder bore barrel...I got up to hitting 6 out of 10 clays. :D
I'll admit I now have an extra 28" Mod choke barrel for my shotgun.

IMHO after trying quite a few other shotguns, from cheap to expensive overall fit of any shotgun to your frame is more important.

I know many that use "tactical" stocks and grip mounted shotguns for upland game and such, just fine...there are also some great turkey shotguns coming out in said manner...check out the new Mossberg 835 Ulti-Mag, TACTICAL TURKEY shotgun:

w ww.mossberg.com/products/default.asp?id=19&section=products

:dancingbanana:
 
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