Can this be welded?

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gunlaker

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This is the lower tang of a double set trigger Meacham 1885 highwall that was broken by someone at the U.S. Postal service. I have a spare, but it needs a little bit of fitting. Any idea if this can be welded and who could do the work? I'm thinking it'll be a little difficult to make sure it maintains the original curvature.

It's made from 8620, but was likely over hardened. The rifle (without buttstock attached) was clearly dropped onto it's lower tang.

thanks,

Chris.brokentang.jpg
 
Yes it can be. Personally I'd add some metal (plate, rods?) to the side that goes inside the stock - can hide it there and it will give the whole thing strength being welded to the tang in multiple spots.

I beleive the sides of the tang a flat so clamp it on the side for welding. Otherwise you can do a lot of creative shimming. The metal plate I'm suggesting above will help with getting the angle set.

1-5 minute weld. Potentially hours setting things up?
 
boxhitch said:
silver solder ?
idk
Click to expand...
Silver solder would likely be the least extra work method, though it will leave a fine visible line, unless you go out of your way to color match it afterwards.

In any case, the case hardening is gonna be massed up by the heat of soldering or welding. Not insurmountable, just extra work needed.
 
That piece is color case hardened already.

There shouldn't be enough tension on that part to cause it to break.

It isn't a normal countersink hole, as it has 90 degree sidewals to the flat bearing surface for the bottom of a screw, OR????

Mathching the color case hardening can be done in a couple of ways, depending on how it was done.

One method can be done with a propane torch, after being welded and finished, but it's going to be difficult to match the original perfectly.

The other would require sending the part to a smith who can do proper bone charring or heat treating.
 
gunlaker said:
This is the lower tang of a double set trigger Meacham 1885 highwall that was broken by someone at the U.S. Postal service. I have a spare, but it needs a little bit of fitting. Any idea if this can be welded and who could do the work? I'm thinking it'll be a little difficult to make sure it maintains the original curvature.

It's made from 8620, but was likely over hardened. The rifle (without buttstock attached) was clearly dropped onto it's lower tang.

thanks,

Chris.View attachment 1144004
Click to expand...
By the looks of the grain structure it appears to be cast steel, it would need to be v'd out on the sides then placed in a jig to help with distortion. Would have to be TIG welded and allowed to completely cool down in between passes, once done filing and shaping as needed.
 
Thanks everyone. There is definitely some tension on the tang at that hole as a screw goes through it to fasten part of the trigger assembly to the tang. I imagine it would have to be tig welded rather than silver soldered. The guy who made these actions has long since retired, but his catalog says several of the parts are milled from solid bar, and some are investment cast. Based on the grain at the fracture I assume that the lower tang was cast.
 
It does look like its cast....if it is, its not an easy fix. Good chance it will just crumble away after welding....but its already busted so cant get any worse....give it a shot.
 
gunlaker said:
I have a spare, but it needs a little bit of fitting.
Click to expand...
That might be the 'easiest fix" for this problem. Definitely a cast shatter break, I have never had experience with Tig welding so cant comment on that but have had several cast bearing holders repaired with Nickle rod that all held for years afterwards so think it can be done. you will sure need the help of a machinist of some kind to finish the outside form as well as forming the counter sink properly ( by looking at the slope of countersink bottom, it looks like maybe the countersink was just drilled with a common twist drill )
Good luck with your fix and I'd like to see a photo when done!!
 
Yeah I'll definitely get the spare tang fit properly. It's very close so I think just needs a little bit of careful stoning.

I'll see if I can get ahold of Oskar Cob and see what he thinks. It would be nice to have it useable again. If not I guess I at least have some spare trigger parts :)

Chris.
 
OP,
Case hardened part will require removing surface material to avoid imperfections/porosity.

Fixture the broken pieces on one side's straight edge.

Use your spare trigger to check for the correct radius/curvature.

TIG tack weld the pieces,no filler material.

If said material does NOT puddle,it's cast,
If said material puddles,it's bar stock.

Check fit.

TIG weld w/ purge on back side.

Once welded & blended,apply heat w/ TIG torch on the back side to color match the case hardening.
 
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