Can you drive stick?

[redshooter]

I just wondered if it was two strings with a mag change as there are two distinct groups of 4 shots almost stacked on top and then one shot away from the rest. I shoot all my slow fire stuff single feed each round, and I have to do that when I shoot the 80 grain loads as they are too long to fit in a magazine anyway.

It would have been interesting to see if the stray shots were both the first or last in a magazine of 5, or if they were totally random. I don’t think AR’s are susceptible to spring pressure in magazines but you see guys down south talk about testing individual magazines in M14/M1A type rifles.

It's funny but that position was so stable it really brings out how hard it is to go back to the same point of aim using this sight/target combo. I've got an even finer sight post on the way, $18 to my door was to hard to pass up.

This Rifle has a history of tossing the first shot. I've tried to figure out what the cause was, but never did. One thing is certain, it was much less pronounced with the Troy Battlerail, hardly noticeable. I'll be curious to see if it continues, also if someone is at the range with me I'll get them to spot for me, and confirm it's still the first shot straying from the group.

 

[Overlander2018]

Just put my C8 kit from Nordic and PSA lower together, I'll have to give this challenge a try. Hope the surplus barrel on the C8 still shoots straight. Oh and have been driving my stick shift Wrangler since I was 22. Had to sneak a work truck out during lunch breaks for a couple weeks to practice before picking up the Jeep from the dealership.

 

[Daver_II]

I drive Stick, Two VW GTIs, and a 5 speed Manual Ford ranger 4x4.

Also a 20" Ar-15 with carry handle. 4" at 100y on a windy day.
I adjusted windage when I got home so it should be closer to center.

 

[redshooter]

I drive Stick, Two VW GTIs, and a 5 speed Manual Ford ranger 4x4.

Also a 20" Ar-15 with carry handle. 4" at 100y on a windy day.
I adjusted windage when I got home so it should be closer to center.

Right on! Nice ~2.75" cluster in the middle. I tried out a new front post today, pretty mediocre results, oh well, I still have more powder, projectiles, primers, and time, try again later in the week. The day wasn't a right off though, I brought my 1911, and shot that fair to middling. I love the holes .45 SWC's put in paper.

 

[njohnson]

Daver_II nice group, and ditto on the vehicle choices, I’m driving a 5 speed Jetta GT, and used to have a 5 speed Ranger as well.

Red shooter I don’t know what your eyesight is like, but for me I had trouble with smaller CLE front post on mine ( an 053” I think) and actually switched back to the stock .074” front post. I find that I can pull it into focus easier than the thinner blade. While it is wider than my 8” aiming mark @ 100, I can easily centre the aiming mark within the top edge of the blade, whereas the thin blade was an exercise in centring the blade in the centre of the aiming-sort a reverse if that makes sense.

The CMP website has a Q&A with people writing in to shooters on the AMU Service Rifle team, and at least before they switched to optics, most team members were using a .074” front post-all guys and gals in their 20’s picked as the best SR shooters-so if your experience is similar to mine the smaller blade may not be optimal for us as well.

Found it:

“ Q: I’ve been shooting the M1a for years in service competitions. I just bought a Bushmaster AR15 National Match Rifle. Are there any tips or tricks you can tell me?

A: Mr. Laskoski, That is a fairly broad, open ended question, but I will do my best to hit the key points. The first thing you will notice is that there is much less recoil with the AR-15, which will make it easier to shoot accurately. Also, accuracy is generally better with the ARs and they don’t break as often. How to hold the pistol grip of the AR will probably be one of your first challenges. Because it hangs so low in relationship to the line of bore it is very easy to steer the rifle with your firing hand and to pull the rifle off target because of poor trigger control. To overcome this, I recommend that you use a very strong firing hand grip, to include wrapping your thumb around and resting it on top of the middle finger. I also recommend that you place your trigger finger on the trigger so that your finger is fully extended and wraps around the trigger, but not to go past the second knuckle. This will allow your finger to move straight to the rear naturally. Your next hurdle will more than likely be the reduced sight radius, it’s approximately 7″ shorter. I recommend that you use a wide front sight post. It will be easier to see and stay focused on. Most of the shooters on our team use a front sight that is .064″ to .074″ in width. You may hear from others that you can fine tune your aim better with a narrower sight, but I would check the classification and championships of those shooters before I take that advice. Sight alignment is also going to be much more critical because of the reduced sight radius. You must check it and make sure it is perfect every shot, even in rapid fire. For the size of the rear sight aperture, most shooters on our team use rear apertures between .039″ and .045″ in diameter. Much of this depends on your eyes and how much light they require to see the front sight clearly. Whatever size you settle on, it must satisfy your needs on both bright and dark days. I hope this helps you get started on the right track.

Good Luck,
Lance S. Hopper”




Another thing I do is use the shadow that forms in the centre of the rear aperture, the technical term is the penumbra, it’s the same thing that works in ghost ring sights on a shotgun. I make sure to centre the aiming mark in that circular shadow, then hold my preferred line of white between the top of the front post and the bottom of the aiming mark.

Anyway there’s a pile of what some may be useless information but unfortunately my brains full of useless details....

 

[redshooter]

Not useless at all...the further down the hole you crawl the more subtle the changes required to improve.

I'm thinking you are correct, the post is too small. I think 0.048" is about as small as I want as it's given me the best results so far. The tip of mine is radiused I think I'm going to try another size up, both "ball" and square, 0.050". I'm going to give the original a try as well with my current style of target.

Anyone want to try a really small front sight?

 

[turbo_bird]

I found some targets I shot with my CG80 target rifle (Swedish M96 action, heavy barrel) with aperture sights. I've only had it out the one time with a middle of the road load, and was around 3-4" 5 shot groups at 100m. I'll take some pictures and post up, never did actually measure the groups. I usually use a front and rear bag when I'm shooting from a bench. It's the rifle second from the right in this picture.

As for driving stick, I learned on my parents farm on a 1951 Massey Harris that's still in use. I've had a mix of vehicles, standard and auto, probably more standards though. Currently my pickup, computer car, and summer fun car are all standards.
Kristian

 

[redshooter]

Nice Hardware! Looking forward to see how it shoots.

 

[turbo_bird]

Nice Hardware! Looking forward to see how it shoots.

Thanks, here's a couple 25 yard targets I shot with the 22 on the left, prone with a front bag out behind my house. If I had the right targets I could maybe get into the .5" @ 50 yards 22 challenge, but I'd need a big sheet of paper to get 5 x 5" targets on one sheet.

Kristian

 

[njohnson]

Thanks, here's a couple 25 yard targets I shot with the 22 on the left, prone with a front bag out behind my house. If I had the right targets I could maybe get into the .5" @ 50 yards 22 challenge, but I'd need a big sheet of paper to get 5 x 5" targets on one sheet.

Kristian

Nice work! That’s a great hold.

 

[redshooter]

Thanks, here's a couple 25 yard targets I shot with the 22 on the left, prone with a front bag out behind my house. If I had the right targets I could maybe get into the .5" @ 50 yards 22 challenge, but I'd need a big sheet of paper to get 5 x 5" targets on one sheet.
Kristian

Now that's a tight ten shots. What's the furthest you can shoot out back? I'll bet 1-1.5 MOA at 100 would be pretty straight forward assuming no wind. I NEED to get a Rimfire, I could shoot about 150 yds out back, pretty sure the Neighbors would be pissed if I started practicing with a Centerfire though.

 

[turbo_bird]

Now that's a tight ten shots. What's the furthest you can shoot out back? I'll bet 1-1.5 MOA at 100 would be pretty straight forward assuming no wind. I NEED to get a Rimfire, I could shoot about 150 yds out back, pretty sure the Neighbors would be pissed if I started practicing with a Centerfire though.

Unfortunately not very far unless I want to risk shooting across trails that neighbours walk on. There's not very many people that get out there, but I still don't want to chance it. I should build a shooting bench at home though, if I set up between my house and garage I can shoot 50 yards safely.

Luckily the gun range is only about 20 min on a quad or 10 min on the highway, and there's targets out past 800m there.
Kristian

 

[L86 All Terrain]

Now that's a tight ten shots. What's the furthest you can shoot out back? I'll bet 1-1.5 MOA at 100 would be pretty straight forward assuming no wind. I NEED to get a Rimfire, I could shoot about 150 yds out back, pretty sure the Neighbors would be pissed if I started practicing with a Centerfire though.

My neighbor was pissed that I was shooting rimfire at 150, he snuck down one night and moved my target. It was completely safe into a backstop, impossible to shoot over, he just must think it's not safe, he is the "safety guy" for his employer so... Now its at 200yd off to the side more. Can hit the 6x8 plate Kentucky windage style off a bipod pretty consistently.

 

[DT741]

Here is mine.
https://imgur.com/gallery/FasFDcN

Rifle: DA556 with a CNA 10.5" 223wylde barrel
Ammo: PMC 62gr

No rest, bag or sling used. Just laying down in the snow. All measurement are on the target but here they are again:

-5.25" circle
-10 shots high due to 50m zero
-shot at the bottom is not part of the grouping. Top shot was pulled and called, elbow slipped.
-group is 4.25" high X 2 7/8" wide

Not much to add, I was expecting a bigger group, I will try it again when the range re-opens with LAR15 magazines instead of 5/30. I find that changing magazine mid-group messes it up. I did notice that I had to focus a bit more on the sights than before, too much time behind optics I guess...

 

[redshooter]

My neighbor was pissed that I was shooting rimfire at 150, he snuck down one night and moved my target. It was completely safe into a backstop, impossible to shoot over, he just must think it's not safe, he is the "safety guy" for his employer so... Now its at 200yd off to the side more. Can hit the 6x8 plate Kentucky windage style off a bipod pretty consistently.

People and firearms, esp. non-shooters, and some hunters. They'll sit there and argue with me about something like ricochets knowing full well I'll shoot more rounds in a week then they will in a lifetime.

 

[redshooter]

Here is mine.
https://imgur.com/gallery/FasFDcN

Rifle: DA556 with a CNA 10.5" 223wylde barrel
Ammo: PMC 62gr

No rest, bag or sling used. Just laying down in the snow. All measurement are on the target but here they are again:

-5.25" circle
-10 shots high due to 50m zero
-shot at the bottom is not part of the grouping. Top shot was pulled and called, elbow slipped.
-group is 4.25" high X 2 7/8" wide

Not much to add, I was expecting a bigger group, I will try it again when the range re-opens with LAR15 magazines instead of 5/30. I find that changing magazine mid-group messes it up. I did notice that I had to focus a bit more on the sights than before, too much time behind optics I guess...

Good Shooting, about 3" without the flyer? I hear you about the mag changes, two crazy 5 shot clusters don't necessarily make for a good ten round group. I did the same today, but I didn't change mags, Still best group so far at 2.874".

 

[njohnson]

DT741,

Nice shooting. It’s impressive how those short carbines can perform at distances beyond what one would consider a CQB environment..

My local range just closed for the next few weeks at least for all this Corona stuff. The up side is they are forging ahead with berm improvements so prone might be permissible after that work is completed and the virus thing settles down.

Hang in there everyone....

 

[FarmerDanz]

Made a trip to the range to try this... brought the SKS just to see....

I dont think I could have cut it any closer!!!

Group, basically exactly 6in.

Rifle

 

[redshooter]

FarmerDanz, claims 6" with an SKS, since I've seen an old Finn do about 4" I believe you, but your pics aren't cooperating.

I was out shooting today, had the range to myself, no "distancing" required. I got to say it's tough getting below 3.5" with Irons and ten shots. No problem getting 6-7 shots around 2.5", but always a few shots well out that didn't feel like I'd pulled them. I fired 20 at a pretty rapid rate prone and although it was 10.5", and required four mag changes, I was really pleased with the results.

Has anyone ever had an experience like this? First I center the post in the aperture, then place the post on my aim point. I'm having some difficulty with a "6" o'clock hold because for some reason the bottom portion of the bull washes out. Whatever the reason it's holding me back. I can still do a decent center hold, or I can do some kind of blinking shifting my gaze voodoo and resolve the bottom clearly, but only fleetingly. Obviously I can still shoot, but I think it's time to see the Ophthalmologist. If you have experienced what I'm describing, or are aware of it, any suggestions?

 

[FarmerDanz]

My pics arent working? Google made some changes lemme tinker. I can see em.