any mil spec upper should fit any mil spec lower. You can get a min/max spec condition where you will feel a sloppier fit, but with an AR, up and lower fit has zero impact on reliability or accuracy, it's simply a matter of personal taste. (i don't like it when the upper and lower wiggle or rattle) If you have a good barrel, with the barrel extension on properly and the bolt fits the extension square, you will have an accurate rifle.
All the upper and lower do is provide a box for the moving parts and provide something to bolt a user interface onto. Trigger and stock to your preference/budget will make it easier to shoot up to the level of the barrel/bolt, but will not add to the accuracy. I would free float the barrel of any AR i want to be super accurate, but any decent barrel should shoot 1-1.5 " at a hundred and it's easy to cut that in half if you hand load and free float.
I built an AR on a armalite heavy contour 20" chrome lined barrel that i picked up at a gun show for less then 200$ (the funny thing was the fella selling it was doing so because it "wasn't accurate enough")....added an eagle arms lower (armalite, thanks wolverine!), a generic upper, and for less then a grand into it had a rifle that will punch .75 with any north american ammo and .5 all day long with hand loads. AR's have to be the easiest rifles to build on the face of the earth!
Find yourself any reputable parts, it's actually hard to find bad stuff any more..(the days of the crap cast lowers are happily over) and make yourself a rifle!