Canadian Precision- M5 Milspec

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I was looking at buying an R5 Milspec. Canadian Precision's website offers Remington R5 Milspecs blueprinted, bolt lugs trued and hand lapped.

I have sent a few emails looking to purchase one and I have not heard back. I am itching to pick up one. Any ideas if he is still in business or can anyone help send me in the right direction to acquiring one of these with this custom work done?

Thanks
 
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I just took a look. there actually priced very well !

Try calling ?

good luck anyway. sorry I cant give u the yes or no answer ur looking for.
 
Can you tell us what Blueprinting, truing the bolt lugs and hand lapping them will do for the Rifle?

Is that money spent you will notice? Just want to expand my knowledge. :)

I can understand bedding the action and even the Scope Rail.

"When a rifle is fired, thousands of pounds of chamber pressure are generated, placing the entire barrel and action under tremendous stress. If any of the parts are not perfectly aligned and abutted, disproportionate stress creates adverse harmonics throughout the firearm, tending to throw shots awry. Most rifles are made on production machinery, and advances in CNC machines in recent years have increased the ability of machines to produce parts to close tolerances. Still, there are tolerances and the parts are produced very fast. It is not unusual to find critical receiver and bolt parts that have more manufacturing tolerance, or runout, than critical machinists and shooters would appreciate. For example, it is not unusual to find a receiver face that is .010 or .012 inch out of square. The threads can easily be out .010 inch. Add .002 for the boltface and another .002 for the locking lugs, and it all combines to do nothing good for accuracy. While these tolerances are better than they have ever been, and do produce fine and sometimes exceptional hunting accuracy, the shooter pursuing the very best accuracy possible does everything he can to ensure that his equipment is the best that it can possibly be made to be. "
 
"When a rifle is fired, thousands of pounds of chamber pressure are generated, placing the entire barrel and action under tremendous stress. If any of the parts are not perfectly aligned and abutted, disproportionate stress creates adverse harmonics throughout the firearm, tending to throw shots awry. Most rifles are made on production machinery, and advances in CNC machines in recent years have increased the ability of machines to produce parts to close tolerances. Still, there are tolerances and the parts are produced very fast. It is not unusual to find critical receiver and bolt parts that have more manufacturing tolerance, or runout, than critical machinists and shooters would appreciate. For example, it is not unusual to find a receiver face that is .010 or .012 inch out of square. The threads can easily be out .010 inch. Add .002 for the boltface and another .002 for the locking lugs, and it all combines to do nothing good for accuracy. While these tolerances are better than they have ever been, and do produce fine and sometimes exceptional hunting accuracy, the shooter pursuing the very best accuracy possible does everything he can to ensure that his equipment is the best that it can possibly be made to be. "


This is all true.

However there are "gunsmiths" around that will lap the bolt lugs only which then increases the headspace without setting the barrel back, which then can create a very dangerous situation not to mention some negative accuracy attributes.

Beware of these sorts of "accurizing" they can cost you body parts.

To do the job properly the bolt lugs are trued, the front of the action is squared, the recoil lug either ground or replaced and the tenon threads are recut to true center of the actions bore which increases them in dimension making reusing the factory barrel impossible without removing the barrels shank and then cutting threads to match what the actions tenon now is cut to. Most 700 factory barrels do not have a long enough shank to do this.

To do all of this and then stick a factory barrel on is a total waste of time and money and can have some nasty repercussions.
 
I have only had one factory rifle accurized, without installing a new barrel.It was a 700VSSF in 22-250 that would do no better than 7/8"(5 shots at 100 yards)with any of the handloads that I tried. I had Rod at Corlanes, true the receiver,recoil lug, and bolt face, lap the lugs, recrown the muzzle, and redo the headspace, and the result was that the groups were reduced to 5/8". The difference in accuracy wasn't huge, but it was measurable. As well, if I later decided to rebarrel, the action work was already done.
 
However there are "gunsmiths" around that will lap the bolt lugs only which then increases the headspace without setting the barrel back, which then can create a very dangerous situation not to mention some negative accuracy attributes.

Beware of these sorts of "accurizing" they can cost you body parts.

To do the job properly the bolt lugs are trued, the front of the action is squared, the recoil lug either ground or replaced and the tenon threads are recut to true center of the actions bore which increases them in dimension making reusing the factory barrel impossible without removing the barrels shank and then cutting threads to match what the actions tenon now is cut to. Most 700 factory barrels do not have a long enough shank to do this.

To do all of this and then stick a factory barrel on is a total waste of time and money and can have some nasty repercussions.

Ouch. A warning that will be well noted.
That info would make me question a purchase from that retailer without asking some specific questions. They charge about $200 for all that work...does not seem like alot.
 
I have only had one factory rifle accurized, without installing a new barrel.It was a 700VSSF in 22-250 that would do no better than 7/8"(5 shots at 100 yards)with any of the handloads that I tried. I had Rod at Corlanes, true the receiver,recoil lug, and bolt face, lap the lugs, recrown the muzzle, and redo the headspace, and the result was that the groups were reduced to 5/8". The difference in accuracy wasn't huge, but it was measurable. As well, if I later decided to rebarrel, the action work was already done.

The potential hitch there is that the mandrel used and the set up in the lathe may vary from shop to shop. We get "trued" actions in regularly that we worked on by others that have different dimensions.
Understand I am not suggesting they were not done correctly, but each lathe has a different degree of runout, and every mandrel can have a tolerance difference.
As a result of this we still treat every action as if it had not been touched.
Even some of the custom actions we see are not 100% true.
 
Ouch. A warning that will be well noted.
That info would make me question a purchase from that retailer without asking some specific questions. They charge about $200 for all that work...does not seem like alot.

Knowledge is power, and to know what questions to ask is always a benefit to the end user. In all walks of life there are people who will try to sell something as being improved upon, ourselves included, however to have the knowledge and expertise to make an improvement correctly and safely is what is important.
Not for an instant am I trying to suggest that the OPs situation is questionable, as I do not know. I am just sharing what I have seen and have had to deal with far too often.

The reason we charge more than some for the labor to rebarrel a rifle is that we include the trueing of the action as a matter of course in installing a new barrel. The idea being that if the job is worth doing at all, we should do it properly.
 
Beware of these sorts of "accurizing" they can cost you body parts.

To do the job properly the bolt lugs are trued, the front of the action is squared, the recoil lug either ground or replaced and the tenon threads are recut to true center of the actions bore which increases them in dimension making reusing the factory barrel impossible without removing the barrels shank and then cutting threads to match what the actions tenon now is cut to. Most 700 factory barrels do not have a long enough shank to do this.

To do all of this and then stick a factory barrel on is a total waste of time and money and can have some nasty repercussions.

Good advice from ATR

You should not touch any of these surfaces without checking the headspace and also the bolt nose clearance after. Manson precision sells tooling that "cleans up" only the minor diameter of the action threads and does not over bore the action. Here is a video explaining "blue printing". By some standards this would not be considered a completely blue printed action though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fU_bGHAfV4

[youtube]0fU_bGHAfV4[/youtube]
 
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