Canadianising the 1919

stencollector

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I had the 1919 out on the weekend for Shilos Battle of the Bulge, and during the first match the gun worked fairly flawlessly. My team finished in 6 minutes, and I had one round left in the chamber and 4 rounds on the belt, out of a belt of 250 rounds. That 6 minutes included running up to the start point, waiting for my sniper to countersnipe the opening target (1 minute), clear the first lane, move to the second lane through the obstacle course, reset up the gun, and continue firing. So 245 rounds in that amount of time was pretty good. (This is why gunasaurus fears this gun so much. :) )

But the second match was not so good. I couldn't even get the gun to accept a round initially, and then when it would shoot, it was sporadic, with lots of jams. I tried opening up the headspace using my trusty Enfield bayonet, but alas, too little too late and the match was lost, and we had to settle for second place. During a bit of fun shooting afterwards, a ruptured case ended the day.

A quick check once I was home showed that the screw holding the "cam, lock, breech" had worked itself loose. I had this happen once before, and thought I had peened it in place good enough to do the job. But after only a few thousand rounds, the problem had come back to haunt me in the final of a match.

Extracting the broken 8mm case proved to be a bit of a challenge as well. My 303 and 308 extractor tools were both a bit short or a bit small to do the job. But a 7/16 bolt threaded nicely into the ruptured case and a whack in the vice knocked it out.

The gun was filthy, and since I was going to run it out to the shop anyway, I decided it was time to add the one thing that this gun was really missing to remind me of my youth: install the Canadian cocking handle.

I had first worked with the C1 GPMG when I was in the militia at 16. The Canadian guns all had a rather large ring on the side of the gun which allowed you to #### the gun with the arctic mitts on. The cocking handle also acts as a hold open device, a feature missing on the US version of the gun.

Before anyone else starts drilling holes in the sides of their M1919, best have a look at the diagram below. If you can't read some of the measurements, just ask and I'll be happy to read them off to you.

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This next photos a bit dark, but here i am threading the 10-32 holes in the sideplate that I drilled out with a #21 drill bit.
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Below are the components required for the Canadian cocking handle. I had to do a bit of searching around town to find the slot head screws. Everybody sells Robertson these days, and even the military NSN converted over to phillips. I actually found them at Cdn tire, believe it or not.
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Note that the screws were plated. This would not do so I heated them to red, and quenched them in oil. Then I heated them again and rubbed them against a woolen sock. They come out nice and black.
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Next came the repair to the cam. I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner, and applied loctite to the screw.
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Note that this screw does not get tightened right down. The screw should float, with about .020 (+-.005) clearance between the bottom plate and the cam. Stake the heck out of this screw from the inside, never the bottom. TNW failed to do this on my gun in the first place.
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Now, with the gun assembled, here is the cocking handle in the stowed position. The Canadian latest style (C5A1) top cover latch can be seen, which has an independant rear plate latch.
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In the next photo is the handle in the retracted and locked open position. This is kind of handy for range use.
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Our next milsurp match here in Shilo should be the D-day match in June. I'll be better prepared next time.
 
I'm sorely tempted to get one of these guns but alas there isn't really a good place in all of Nova Scotia to shoot it to it's potential, and who am I kidding I don't have the $ to keep her fed. Looks like a beautiful gun though and that's good machinework there stencollector. Best regards Tony.
 
Looks Nice!!...(ya need more practice taking pics, though...fuzzy)

I think anyone who wants to do this could make the parts....simple stuff out of flat stock
 
that lock cam is supposed to be sligtly loose

mine is NOT staked in at all I rarely adjust it and have dumped 500 rnds fast as i can with no problems

if the cam is too tight the gun wont run either you gotta find the sweet spot for it

only trouble ive ever had of mine is the extractor came on the LSP broke the tip off and cause no end of jams took me months to find one too and its rivited on so i had to find rivits too
 
Mine used to almost fall out the bottom. This was something that, once staked, you should be able to just forget about. The Canadian manual calls for .015 to .025 clearance. I'm hoping the loctite does the trick for good.
By the way, I saw a ref to thread sealant on the small screws which hold the cocking handle blocks to the side plate.

I'm hoping Santa brings me a new camera this year, so my photos may improve.
 
The tripod suggestion is probably the best one. I dragged an old one I had kicking around downstairs.....I'll try some of these photos again later in the weekend. I figure the modification instruction is important to others who want to try this.
 
Looks good Rob....(in my most terrified voice). Save yourself the excuse of losing a match to it now....:) by remembering to lock tite the heck out of those screws holding the cocking handle blocks to the side plate or they will eventually vibrate out. I've had to do this to a ton of them in my time....gotta hate it when a prolonged stoppage costs you a match. That's the price of using the 1919 though I guess.....
All this being said, I have no excuse for not even hitting one sniper target all day with my Nagant Sniper...guess I peaked to early (set up day, it shot great!)
 
All this being said, I have no excuse for not even hitting one sniper target all day with my Nagant Sniper...guess I peaked to early (set up day, it shot great!)

You had me worried on the Saturday when you were hitting the sniper shot fairly reliably, and we didn't knock it down once. I guess we work better under pressure, as our sniper needed no help on the Sunday.

I am going to re-do those sidescrews. As I mentioned earlier, I did find a ref to it in one of the manuals. If the puny 308 round was shaking them loose, then the mighty 8mm will certainly do it eventually too.

I have also run into a problem with the rivets that hold the sight bracket in place. They are a bit loose. I temp fixed it by putting set screws in the scope bracket holes to keep the bracket tight away from the receiver. Still, I had best reswage them. As it is now, the sight bracket is being held in place by very little metal, as opposed to the friction that rivets shold provide. Not that I use the sights much enyways...I prefer the "watch the dustcloud" method. ::cool:
 
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Hey, the "dust cloud method" obviously works for you, why change a good thing.....I like the C5A1 style cocking handle look too......
I have actually seen those side screws sheared off completely as well. Likely because of being loose and the blocks shearing them under constant battering via recoiling forces, the tighter they are the better.....
 
Mine are in fact M-5 screws in a 10-32 threaded hole. That was one of the few choices I had from the Cdn tire selection. I went to pro-fasteners in Brandon and they don't even supply screws with slot drive anymore.
The M-5 are about .006" thicker than #10 screws, but they threaded right in. The TPIs seemed to be axactly the same.

Thanks for the enecdote on the loose screws. I depend on these to get the older equipment right. Otherwise, I seem to end up finding out in the middle of matches (as I did with my unpeened and non-loctited AR-15 bolt last year).
 
Did some calculating - if the M5 screws are M5-.75, that's about 34tpi, pretty close to 32tpi. #10 screws are about .188", 5mm is nominally .197", so they probably go in nice and tight.
 
The digital calipers gave me an OD on the M-5 of .193". I may have been helped in by that Chinese made tap I used, but the M5 went into the hole with little to no resistance, and snugged up nicely. Cooking the plating off them may have reduced their dia slightly as well.

One thing I did notice about drilling and tapping the TNW sideplate was how easy it was. I have done this mod to a dewat in the past, with an origional sideplate, and while the front two holes weren't bad, the rear ones were near impossible to drill and impossible to tap. The rear couple inches of the sideplate was really hard on the origionals.
 
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