Cannot Crimp 45ACP to spec without bullet damage

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Diablo9845

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Hey all, struggling with a reloading brain fart, or maybe just being too anal.
I'm reloading for 45ACP using Berry's 230gr plated bullets (and 4.6gr Titegroup at 1.250 OAL if that matters). I'm using a Dillon 550 with a Lee 4 Die set.

My issue is I cannot get a loaded case mouth within spec without damaging the bullet after I pull it!

In the sizing stage, case measures 0.468 (normal)
Powder drop and bell, measures 0.483 (larger bell, I know, but probably isn't the issue)
Seating stage, measures (0.480).
Light, light crimp stage and it measures 0.474-0.475 which is larger than most people's final product. After I pull the bullet, it looks like this:

image.jpg


Slight visible indented line along projectile.

If I tighten the crimp, leaving me with 0.472, it looks like this:

image.jpg


Much larger indent.

My dad reloaded the same bullets a long time ago to 0.470 and when I pulled them there was no visible markings! He uses the same press and dies at his house.

Any suggestions would be welcome!

Thank you.
 
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Looks like you're rolling crimping the bullet. A taper crimp die would have to be grossly over adjusted to put a mark like that on the bullet and even then I don't think it would do it. If you have to use the roll crimp die adjust it so it just removes the bell from the case mouth and nothing more. Roll crimping will also give you inconsistent head spacing of the cartridge. Invest in a taper crimp die. Should only be about $20-25new. As long as the finished cartridge drops fully into the barrel chamber you're good to go no matter what measurement you're getting.

Also, mic your bullets. Unless plated bullets are double struck (sized after plating) they can vary in diameter by several thou over nominal size.
 
I set/ crimp / close just enough to get the walls straight after belling if it drops in the gauge and feels relatively smooth at the junction of the brass and bullet I'm good to go
 
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You don't "crimp" 45 you just remove the bell you put on it top seat the bullet. You need to try the plunk test in your barrel as that will determine how far down to screw your crimping action. Make up a dummy round with little to no crimp, drop in in the removed barrel of your gun. Press it in with your thumb then try and dump it out. The first one should stick in the barrel, use a rod to get it out. Turn down the crimp die a bit more and repeat. Do this until the cartridge falls out on it own. Then screw it down a tiny bit more and lock it there.
You tube I am sure has the plunk test in video form :)
 
silverfoxdj said:
I set/ crimp / close just enough to get the walls straight after belling if it drops in the gauge and feels relatively smooth at the junction of the brass and bullet I'm good to go
Click to expand...

I'm with the Fox. Taper crimp to feel. I set up a few dummy rounds and then taper until the brass and projectile feel close to smooth. For the wheel guns I back off a bit more, leaving a bit of a ridge.

ITB
 
In The Black said:
I'm with the Fox. Taper crimp to feel. I set up a few dummy rounds and then taper until the brass and projectile feel close to smooth. For the wheel guns I back off a bit more, leaving a bit of a ridge.

ITB
Click to expand...
Haven't had one issue doing it this way, I looked at finished manufactured rounds and tried to come close to the look and feel of those..
 
The only spec I use is whether or not it is within max oal and whether it passes the plunk test.

Beyond that, respectfully, you're kinda overthinking it. Straighten the case walls out and be done. I do that with a hint of chunk in the seater/roll crimp die
 
Awesome guys. Thank you. Just worrying too much I guess. They function fine at 0.475 with no feeding issues whatsoever. Will that first small line on the projectile cause any issues with accuracy?

I might just start over and reset all 4 stages following the instructions. Maybe it could be tapering slightly on the seating stage.
 
I usually test some cartridges by dropping them in the barrel, (removed of coarse) if it drops in flush or very slightly below with no resistance they are good to go.
 
Diablo9845 said:
Awesome guys. Thank you. Just worrying too much I guess. They function fine at 0.475 with no feeding issues whatsoever. Will that first small line on the projectile cause any issues with accuracy?

I might just start over and reset all 4 stages following the instructions. Maybe it could be tapering slightly on the seating stage.
Click to expand...

I think your good all around
 
Diablo9845 said:
Awesome guys. Thank you. Just worrying too much I guess. They function fine at 0.475 with no feeding issues whatsoever. Will that first small line on the projectile cause any issues with accuracy?

I might just start over and reset all 4 stages following the instructions. Maybe it could be tapering slightly on the seating stage.
Click to expand...

I imagine that they will function just fine. But based on the photos, I would consider backing the crimp off a bit.


EDIT - As silverfox said, have a look at a few factory or factory reloaded rounds. They can help you set a baseline.
Cheers.

ITB
 
Your first picture is fine. Yes, it's got a slight line but that's OK as long as it passes the plunk test. The second picture with the heavier crimp on a plated bullet is very likely setting your loads up to split at the crimp line and shed the plating during flight. That's way too much.

I don't know about Campro but Berry's information at their website warns against heavy crimping like your second photo.
 
madcow said:
3 die set, it roll. 4 die set is taper
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No.
I have two 3 die sets and one 4 die set.
The 3 die seats and taper crimps in the same die.
The 4 die does them separately.

Neither one roll crimps in .45 ACP

BCRider said:
Your first picture is fine. Yes, it's got a slight line but that's OK as long as it passes the plunk test...
Click to expand...

^^ this ^^
Unless you are having feeding issues your good to go.
 
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