Can't get this gun clean?

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wetcoaster

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Got a used husky this year in 7mm rem mag that has turned out to be a real tack driver. It is in great shape but when I recieved it I couldn't believe how dirty it was I bet it was never cleaned. So I gave it a good cleaning in the standard way but gave up long before the bore patches were clean after god knows how many patches. Same thing after every range trip the patches just keep coming out grey. I peer down the barrel and it looks fairly shiny but the patches don't lie. I also can't believe how dirty it gets in addition with just 20 shells through it. I have never had this problem before?

Is there a stronger stripping product out there that I can run through the bore than nitro solvent? My feeling is after years of caking on without being cleaned this grime is stuck hard? Anyone else had this problem and any thing else to try?
 
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Take it to the range with a bottle of ammonia or good bore solvent. Fire until hot. Fire one more round BUT don't open bolt this round is your plug. Now use a little funnel and pour the bore full of bore solvent or ammonia. DONT get ammonia on blueing. After it has set for a while pour out the solvent (back into container) now go to town with brush. Good to have a bottle of water on hand for when you leak ammonia all over the blueing.
 
Wipe Out

wbench.jpg
 
I like either wipe out or the bench resters standby, system that has also been tried and true, A good copper solvent such as Sweets for really tough jobs or Barne's CR-10 or for light jobs Butchs' Bore Cleaner or Accubore, followed by JBs and alcohol to clean up the residue, if the rifle is going to be put away, a coat of light oil in the bore as well.

It sounds like you have another problem as well. Either you don't really know how and what it takes to clean out copper fouling or you have a rifle that hasn't been cleaned after several seasons or sessions at the range.

If the latter is the case, there will be carbon layers between the layers of copper fouling. When you get rid of a layer of copper, there will be a layer of carbon fouling to get rid of again, before, you can start on the next layer of copper.

I use a mixture of Brake Kleen or Kleens cylinder cleaner (GM dealer, $8/1/2 litre) and Kroil. It works very well at getting between the layers of copper, washing out the carbon and greatly speeding up the fouling removal process.

KROIL is short for creepy oil and is available at your local gunshop. bearhunter
 
Thanks everyone for all the advice. I looked up the web references for wipe out it looks like it is what I require, Where do you guys buy it? Is the CLP break free foaming bore cleaner as good?
 
wetcoaster said:
Where do you guys buy it?
Click to expand...

Can anyone hook up Wetcoaster with some Wipeout?

Or you could try this:


sharpshootr.com/wipeout.htm

If WIPE-OUT™ is not available from your local Distributor or Dealer ,you may purchase directly from Paul Co.

Visa, Master Card, and C.O.D. accepted. Call us at 1-785-883-4444 or send us an e-mail.

gethelp@sharpshootr.com
 
Try bcredneck.com. That's where I got mine, but it was some time ago and I bought a case of the stuff. P&D Enterprises in Edmonton also carried it.

I found that Wipeout works best when left in the bore over night. Some folks say you should spray out the bore with break clean first as this speeds things up. I have not used any of the other foaming agents so I cannot comment on how they compare.
 
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wetcoaster said:
Got a used husky this year in 7mm rem mag that has turned out to be a real tack driver. It is in great shape but when I recieved it I couldn't believe how dirty it was I bet it was never cleaned. So I gave it a good cleaning in the standard way but gave up long before the bore patches were clean after god knows how many patches. Same thing after every range trip the patches just keep coming out grey. I peer down the barrel and it looks fairly shiny but the patches don't lie. I also can't believe how dirty it gets in addition with just 20 shells through it. I have never had this problem before?

Is there a stronger stripping product out there that I can run through the bore than nitro solvent? My feeling is after years of caking on without being cleaned this grime is stuck hard? Anyone else had this problem and any thing else to try?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't worry about getting it too clean if it is shooting weell.
It may turn out that if you DO get it clean, the accurcay will be crap till you get about twenty rounds through it!:eek:
Cat
 
Heeds Cats note. Some of these bores NEED to be filthy to shoot their best. The fouling provides a more consistent surface and thus increases accuracy. Essentially, the fouling fills in the rough spots and machine marks.

Worry about the groups on target. No animal ever complained about a dirty bore.

If you really must have a 'clean' bore, Barnes CR10 is the best non abrasive. Commercial Janitorial Ammonia is THE best at removing copper. Just be careful to wipe in and wipe out. Don't let this stuff sit in the bore for more then a few minutes (not needed either).

If the bore is as badly fouled as you say, forget about wipeout. It will take you a few lifetimes to get it all out. Cost a small fortune in product too.

JB reg. and Bore brite will get any surface crude off in a hurry. Alternating between JB and an ammonia cleaner will get any bore back to bare metal. Even in the pitting or tool marks.

If the bore has tooling marks which are below the bore surface, the 'dirt' you see on the patches are from these grooves. Cleaning this solves nothing and most definitely will require alot of fouling shots to restore accuracy.

Clean a barrel when and as much as necessary to restore ACCURACY. Many factory or surplus military barrels do not shoot well when cleaned to bare metal.

Jerry
 
Most non-match barrels shoot best with a little fouling. I'll usually only clean a gun right down to the bare metal when I get a new gun (or a used one), then only once per year.

For the once-a-year cleanings, it'll get a few patches of Hoppes 9, then the bronze or nylon brush, then a bore full-o-Wipeout overnight followed by more hoppes the next morning, repeating until patches come out clean and the wipeout shows no more copper. Some used rifles I've gotten have had layers of fouling in them - carbon, copper, carbon, copper, etc. It's possible for the wipeout to come out clear, only to come out blue again after some hoppes & scrubbing. I only ever use JB in the absolute worst cases where it'll cut through mutliple layers of crud right down to shiny gleaming steel.

For normal use throughout the year, it gets a quick bore snake at the range every dozen rounds or so, and 10 minute shot of Wipeout after each session.
 
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